rayweipu

i was looking for a car between 5th gen lude, 98+ golf, A4, 00 celica GTS, 240sx, but eventually i got the lude and i'm happy with it.

golf, couldn't really find one with a fair price, everyone whos selling them think they got hot german ****s and think they are cool, idiots. A4, overpriced, too heavy, need a chip to be a fun car(i didn't feel like modding the car), and whatsoever. and 00 celica GTS, can't afford, :lol:

so the choices narrowed down to between 5th gen lude and 95~98 nissan 240sx. the only reason i wanted a 240 is because it's FR. but i figured there was too many disadvantages of 240sx, rear wheel drive bad in snow(it's snows more than 6 months here), extremely slow without the sr20det swap, hard to find one with low mile, hard to find one with manual, and most of them are in bad condition.

so my decision was made and i'm really really happy about it.

wreckdiver

Before you buy an Audi, check repairs costs. Replacement parts on those puppies are $$$$$$$$$

P.S. Not a bit of trouble with my 99:thumbup:

clickwir

What? Now you don't want a Prelude? Sad to hear that. Volkswagon sucks.

qirex

i had a 97 with many troubled miles, brakes, susap creak new clutch at 60K. Leaking/burning oil....granted i autoXed a lot and drove her pretty hard.

The thing that sucks re: vtec is that you have to beat the engine to get good performance....ultimately, it takes its toll.

fastball

I have 71,000 miles on mine (yes, I drive alot), and still the clutch has no slip, the brakes are excellent, and I can't rave about the car enough. Sure, I don't drive as hard as you appearantly, but it's seen redline quite a few times. I think the key is changing oil and filter every 3,000 and I've been using Castrol Syntec 10w-30 since 9,000 miles. Now, I don't know how much this has to do with it, but I followed the break in period to a tee. And, changed the oil at 1,500, then at 3,000. When engines are new, they still might have a little bit of metal dust or some particles that you want to make sure are cleaned out completely. I plan on doing all the belts, hoses, water pump, and whatever adjustments are needed at 80,000. Like I said, mabe I go a little too far on fluid changes, but better to be safe than sorry. I plan on keeping it till the wheels roll off.

epoxy

i know alot of people with preludes, and never heard this before. i guess it ultimatly depends on the driver. i dont care how expensive or 'high performance' your car is, if the driver beats the hell out of it, it isnt going to last.

and like fastball says, keep up with your cars fluids and stuff... always helps.

just my .02$

THATPRELUDEGUY

Hmmm, I'm at 70k now and there's been a few problems but none like this. I had the bad auto tensioner and a bad inner shaft bearing jsut recently besides that any issues have been caused by me. I get creaks but a lot of that is the TEIN suspension and stiffer sidewall tires. I drive my car hard as often as I can and it's held up fine. If you take care of it no real problems should occur.

SilverSHer

My Mechanic did some checking for me. Type SH preludes parts are across the line 20% more expensive. Even if the part is the same, Honda will have a different part # for the SH and ding you 20% more. How are you supposed to know if the part is the same as the base or different?

If you buy one with high milage out of warranty you will have more expensive repair bills with the SH. The SH is a fun car, but so is the base. Try both and see which one you and your pocket book like.

THATPRELUDEGUY

That's a crock about the 20%. What parts is he talking about? I have yet to see a general maintenace part show a different part # or cost more then a base model. The only parts that would be different would be transmission, short block, ATTS unit, ECU, and front suspension.