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Old 03-28-2004 | 02:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BigLew
Hey asswipe how many times are you gonna say absolutely dumb misinformed bullshit based completely on bench racing.
Again, you need learn how to READ, go back and read my very first post I specifically stated I was talking about FRM sleeves. Read it over and over until you get it and if that doesn't help go get hooked on phonics. As far as me being a bitch, that's not what your mom said. You little punk know nothing ricer. OOH look your not the only one that can flame.

So you are discounting the crank then huh? So what are you talking about then? The strength of the bare block? The bare blocks of an H23 and H22 are the exact same numnuts.
well if im a "little punk know nothing ricer"
then obviously i couldnt have built my own h22a1 from a bare block and had it last until now without any internal problems (58,493).

yes i am discounting the crank. the rod bearings are the only thing you would have to worry about IMO. the mains on the h23a1 are fine. the h22a is better balanced. and like i said before i havent built a f22b motor so im not gonna swear to anything on that crank, but if you say its from an h23a1 then i guess that makes me right anyway huh.

im still having trouble understanding what exactly you are arguing with yourself about here. everyone here including myself knows all the "facts", and there really is no argument. what you are claiming is meaningless and obviously ego driven.

a perfect example is the 4th gen ABS thread, u decide to split hairs with me over how to change brake pads. i built my motor from a bare block what the **** do i care about your method of changing brake pads.

i hold you personally responsible for the downfall of these 2 threads.
notice how everyone stopped posting now :nono:

~boom
Old 03-29-2004 | 04:34 PM
  #22  
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Nobody likes you Lew...You've been humiliated on a webforum...You might as well go kill yourself now... :fawk:
Old 03-29-2004 | 09:12 PM
  #23  
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Alright guys, well Ludeboom, pretty much convinced me into getting a h22a,

now.. when i buy a h22a, online, is it most likely to need repair? if so, how much of repairs? how much money are we talking here?

also, can a H22A Type-S head, be put on a H22A to give it the extra 20HP the Type S has? or would i need other crap?!
Old 03-29-2004 | 11:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ludeboom
well if im a "little punk know nothing ricer"
then obviously i couldnt have built my own h22a1 from a bare block and had it last until now without any internal problems (58,493).
You've done that to "hold boost" as you've been preaching the whole time?

Originally Posted by ludeboom
yes i am discounting the crank. the rod bearings are the only thing you would have to worry about IMO. the mains on the h23a1 are fine. the h22a is better balanced. and like i said before i havent built a f22b motor so im not gonna swear to anything on that crank, but if you say its from an h23a1 then i guess that makes me right anyway huh.
No it's you that's arguing with yourself, you keep on bringing up items that I was never arguing about and this a perfect example. Also as far as you opinion goes since we are on the subject. The crank itself is weaker not just rod bearings in the H23A1. People have been know no bust cranks under high RPMs in H22/23 frankensteins.

im still having trouble understanding what exactly you are arguing with yourself about here. everyone here including myself knows all the "facts", and there really is no argument. what you are claiming is meaningless and obviously ego driven.
Please, you wanna talk about ego? You obviously think that having a high number of posts automatically equates to you knowing shit. You were the one bringing up different elements deraililng the original argument, not to mention the first start hurling insults along with your silly logic.

a perfect example is the 4th gen ABS thread, u decide to split hairs with me over how to change brake pads. i built my motor from a bare block what the **** do i care about your method of changing brake pads.
Yes, this is a perfect example of how you let your know it all ego get the best of you, first by being an prick to someone who was asking an innocent question, and being wrong in your answer, and even now for bringing up something totally unrelated to this topic.

i hold you personally responsible for the downfall of these 2 threads.
notice how everyone stopped posting now :nono:
Look at yourself, you know it is silly, you get your rocks off from e-thugin online. You could know a great deal or you couldn't, I'll never know I can't get past your ego. The fact that you bring up that you built an H22A1 yadayada just solidifys this in my eyes, again chest thumping and posturing, nothing to do with the argument in this thread.
Old 03-29-2004 | 11:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RezzasVTEC
Nobody likes you Lew...You've been humiliated on a webforum...You might as well go kill yourself now... :fawk:
Then you would be nobody and I don't realy care if you like me or not. Only silly asses like you care about supposedly being "humiliated" online from people I don't know and can't see.
Old 03-29-2004 | 11:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by clowN
Alright guys, well Ludeboom, pretty much convinced me into getting a h22a,

now.. when i buy a h22a, online, is it most likely to need repair? if so, how much of repairs? how much money are we talking here?

also, can a H22A Type-S head, be put on a H22A to give it the extra 20HP the Type S has? or would i need other crap?!
Most places should have a 6 month warranty. If I were you I'd call some local salvage yards first and talk to some people at your local tuner shops to see if any local places have good deals and good reputations. I was able to hunt down an JDM H22A longblock from a local bone yard here in Chicago for $1400.

As far as putting a Type-S head on it. H22As in Type S/S Spec Preludes also had higher dome pistons ther CR in a Type S is 11:1 the regular JDM H22A is 10.6:1. It would most likely be cheaper to build the regular H22 more powerful than a Type S, with aftermarket.
Old 03-30-2004 | 06:20 AM
  #27  
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oh alright, also, whats that long block?

ive seen long block and like, the other, which im guessing is the full motor,

what exactly is long block?

what do i need when i buy a motor?

Motor, ECU, and Tranny?
Old 03-30-2004 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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Longblock is basically a full head, block, intake manifold, exhaust manifold. No ECU or tranny.

You are gonna need at least an ECU and a driver side engine mount bracket.

Most people who do an H22 swap into an S opt for at least an H23 tranny, but the H22 will bolt up to the F22 tranny.
Old 03-30-2004 | 08:20 AM
  #29  
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A f22b engine is not a DOHC dumbA## who ever told you that suck that A## and you got to be careful to f22b1 = VTEC F22b2 = non VETC go with the H22 more HP of the line F22b1 = 145 stock F22b2 = 130 stock H22a = 190 stockobd1(92-96 ludes) H22a = 200 stockobd2(97+ludes)
Old 03-30-2004 | 10:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by clowN
oh alright, also, whats that long block?

ive seen long block and like, the other, which im guessing is the full motor,

what exactly is long block?

what do i need when i buy a motor?

Motor, ECU, and Tranny?
the type-s pistons arent that much money. like $80 a piston give or take
but yes if u are going to build for NA, you could raise CR to 12-1 and put some stage 2 or stage 3 cams in it. along with some tuning and you will probably be making over 200 at the wheels, again tuning plays a big part.

~boom


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