Yea I had never really looked up in there before untill tonight. And I noticed that the black boot was all wet. I slipped that boot off and there was fluid coming from it at a very very slow ooze i guess you could call it. I guess that would definetly be the solution because it wouldn't be able to make enough pressure to disengage the clutch all the way and let me shift into gears correct?

So how hard of an install would this be to do? And whats the cost on a master cylinder?

 

what year teg?

 

My 97 LS showed exactly the same traits, and what was the problem,you ask? Simple.

The throwout bearing failed, causing the friction plate to come away from the flywheel at an angle (rather than parallel) which result in an accumuation of the remaining friction plate lining between the flywheel and pressure plate.

This meant the clutch, and by extension, the tranny input shaft was not fully disengaging when I depressed the clutch pedal.
The synchromeshes had to "work against" this partial disengagement when trying to match the speeds of both the input and output shafts.
Hence the stiff, virtually impossible shifting.
Order yourself a new ACT or ClutchMasters clutch, one that is appropriate for the amount of power you plan on making, and swap out the dead clutch and throwout bearing. And be sure to resurface the flywheel!

Good Luck.
Dave.

 

In most cases, this will be a fluid related problem. Whether the MC or SC is leaking, or youre low on fluid, or you just desperately need a change...you should always always always check the fluid situation first before placing the blame on the disc, TO bearing, synchros, etc.

Ive seen fluid bad enough that after a change, constant grinding issues dissapear.

 

^^ Very true, I should have mentioned that I checked the hydraulics first, prior to having the clutch and TO bearing replaced.

:doh:

 

So I could just be low on fluid (clutch fluid I guess it would be called??) or I may just need to drain it and put in some new clutch fluid?

Where would I check to see if I am low or just need to change it and how would I go about changing it? Or am I misinterpreting what you are saying? I apologize if I am. Thanks for the help.

 

testing signature

 

Well I added some dot3 to the clutch resevoir I think it is. The resevoir in the top right of the engine bay. It seemed to shift ok for the first few minutes but then it starts to get worse. I'm going to go ahead and try to run my car at the strip tonight anyways and see if I'm able to to do it. I'll update here later.

The person testing their sig. Do that in the basement. Don't whore my thread.

 

check your slave and master cylinders if you had room for any fluid then u have a leak.