My timing belt snapped today and so I am in the process of replacing it. I am right in the middle of it tonight (driveway, 34C) and I could you some advice on the following...its a 93 GS 5spd

1) How do I determine TDC on cyl 1.

2) How to "break"/remove the crank shaft bolt, engine keeps turning over..?

3) What else should I be replacing well I am at it?
timing belt (of course)
waterpump ?
belt tensioner thingy ?
other belts ?

4) Any little hidden pitfalls I should be aware of?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Ben
Toronto

 

If it hasn't been done, then do it. Everything's already off and the water pump is right there, so you might as well do it, unless you feel you can do it later. I heard the tensioner is good to replace since it's cheap.

If your belt snapped during operation shouldn't you be looking for engine damage? How "non-interference" are G2 engines?

 

Take pics man!!

 

1) Up marks on camshafts point up, and there should be an arrow on the oil pump corresponding to a mark on the crank gear. You can also stick something long in the #1 cylinder and turn the engine over until it reaches its uppermost point.

2) Crank pulley tool = your friend.

3) Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes.

4) Make sure you tension the belt properly. Instructions are in your service manual. And the water pump bolts have VERY VERY low torque specs. Too much elbow and you'll break them.

 

TDC is not that hard, piston one is at TDC when the piston is at its highest point (use a stick or something to determine this), when it is pushing out air from the spark plug hole (use a finger to stop up the hole or a plastic bag, you will know) and when the marks on the crank pully line up with the guide on the engine.

The red mark is TDC.

To take that crank pulley off, you will either need a BIG ASS air tool, by big I mean nothing you could possibly have at home, or the crank pulley tool (fits into that pattern you can see on the inside of the crank pullyey- good luck finding this at your local auto supply store) or you can use a tool, it has a belt hanging from one side, and basically you wrap the belt around the pulley and hold the pulley in place, and take the bolt off. All in all, its sorta hard to do

 

my brother was bothering me to change it and i kept putting it off...well the damn thing snapped when i was in some hoodie area and not only did i have to replace the belt and water pump, but i fawked up cylinder one! i would check to see if you have any internal damage! now im looking to either go ls/vtec or built an ls head! im leaning more towards building an ls head right now though! good luck anyways.

 

Well a little update. I got all the parts belts, pump, gaskets, tensioner. Acura parts are WAY too expensive.

I cannot get the ***king crank pully bolt out. Tried impact gun, breaker bar. Will try heat tomorrow.

Am I turning the the bolt the right way, counter-clockwise?

Any ideas?

Frankly, I would like to take a sledgehammer to the whole damn car....

Anyone in Toronto know where I can borrow a crank pulley tool (big 55mm socket thingy)?

Whats the street price for a B18C5?

 

Try Crappy Tire. That might be one of the tools they lend out.




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OK I give.

I want to take it to a shop in the West End, near 427 and QEW area as I will need to tow it.

Anyone know of a good shop in the area?

Thanks!

 

About the crank pulley bolt: obviously you don't have access to a crank pulley tool so you *could* do what I did on my 90. I took the flywheel cover plate off (black plate covering bottom of flywheel) and put an allen wrench in the teeth to keep the engine from turning over when I cranked on the bolt. I put a 19mm socket on an 18" breaker bar facing the front of the car and stood on it a few times. This was after I tried an impact wrench and several dousings of PB Blaster which might have helped. Another way is to have someone hold the brake pedal down if that works for ya. HTH