Questions about annoying parts on 96 ls
04-16-2003 | 08:02 PM
#1
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11
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From: Miami, Fl
Questions about annoying parts on 96 ls
I get an 96 integra in good condition 102k.. It runs like a brand new car to me, compared to my old Mazada 323.. I love it.. but I just have two really small annoying problem that I can live with, but I'd like to fix them if i can..
1) When shift grade on the automatic tran.. From Park to R or D the car jumps little... And I'd like to know if there's anything that I can change to fix that? (maybe some bots need to be tighten???)
2) I know it's a comman problem with integras, but it's still annoying.. the drive side door on mines (when the windo is down it rattles)when i close the down.. Everyone who's not used to this car thinks something is wrong with my car when it's not.. Is there anything I do to fix that? (maybe i can put some tape or something)..
1) When shift grade on the automatic tran.. From Park to R or D the car jumps little... And I'd like to know if there's anything that I can change to fix that? (maybe some bots need to be tighten???)
2) I know it's a comman problem with integras, but it's still annoying.. the drive side door on mines (when the windo is down it rattles)when i close the down.. Everyone who's not used to this car thinks something is wrong with my car when it's not.. Is there anything I do to fix that? (maybe i can put some tape or something)..
04-17-2003 | 07:27 AM
#3
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: First in line
to help out here, your first question has been answer many time, search for the threads, basically you can wait like 10 mins and let your car warm up and it wont "jump" when shifting anymore.
two, about rattling, hhmmmm, not much u can do other than do a full new door overhaul.
two, about rattling, hhmmmm, not much u can do other than do a full new door overhaul.
04-17-2003 | 07:56 AM
#4
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Originally posted by Meguel24
two, about rattling, hhmmmm, not much u can do other than do a full new door overhaul.
two, about rattling, hhmmmm, not much u can do other than do a full new door overhaul.
In my opinion, the rattling of the window (when you get out of your car and shut the door) is one of the most annoying sounds a car can make. (Arghh!!) Fear not, for I will show you how to fix that irritating sound in just a matter of a few minutes. First off before I begin, please familiarize yourself with the Door Panel Removal article by MorningZ so you know how to gain access to the internals of your door. It's best to fully remove the door panel so you have the most space to work with, and it's one less thing in your way while working on the window track
Materials needed for this "How To:"
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver (for removing door panel)
Weatherstrip Cement
Ok, now that you've gotten that door panel off, lets begin! The reason why your window is making the god-awful rattle when you shut your door is because the rubber stripping along the window track located inside the door has fallen off. Simply reach down into your door and grab a hold of it; it should be laying right at the bottom the door.
Before you get all happy and think that you just have to pop the rubber back on, be sure to stop and think about why it feel off in the first place. The adhesive that was used back when your car was made has obviously gone bad, therefore it would be worthless to think that it will stay in place again. As a solution for the problem, I highly recommend that you use Weatherstriping Cement (I got mine for $3 at Kragen) to keep the ruber strip back in place.
Go get your Weatherstripping cement and put down some old newspaper so you don't make a mess (incase you are a little clumbsy). Ok, now that you are all prepaired, apply the cement down the backside of the stripping and then on the inside of your window track. Be sure to put a good amount on there because you don't want that sucker to fall off again.
Ok, now it's the fun part. Grab that flat head screwdriver I told you that you needed and use it to push the stripping all the way back against the window track so the cement makes contact. Now, instead of having the hassle of trying to get your hands down in those cramped hard to reach places to get the rest of the stripping in, just roll down the window and have it do all the work for you. It will force the stripping exactly where it needs to go and make the cement contact the window track.
As the directions say on the Weatherstripping Cement, it needs something to hold pressure on it until dry. Since you got that window rolled down, it would be a good idea to leave it like that for a while.
Now that you are all done, it's time for a test! Roll your window down a little bit and shut your door.
Materials needed for this "How To:"
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver (for removing door panel)
Weatherstrip Cement
Ok, now that you've gotten that door panel off, lets begin! The reason why your window is making the god-awful rattle when you shut your door is because the rubber stripping along the window track located inside the door has fallen off. Simply reach down into your door and grab a hold of it; it should be laying right at the bottom the door.
Before you get all happy and think that you just have to pop the rubber back on, be sure to stop and think about why it feel off in the first place. The adhesive that was used back when your car was made has obviously gone bad, therefore it would be worthless to think that it will stay in place again. As a solution for the problem, I highly recommend that you use Weatherstriping Cement (I got mine for $3 at Kragen) to keep the ruber strip back in place.
Go get your Weatherstripping cement and put down some old newspaper so you don't make a mess (incase you are a little clumbsy). Ok, now that you are all prepaired, apply the cement down the backside of the stripping and then on the inside of your window track. Be sure to put a good amount on there because you don't want that sucker to fall off again.
Ok, now it's the fun part. Grab that flat head screwdriver I told you that you needed and use it to push the stripping all the way back against the window track so the cement makes contact. Now, instead of having the hassle of trying to get your hands down in those cramped hard to reach places to get the rest of the stripping in, just roll down the window and have it do all the work for you. It will force the stripping exactly where it needs to go and make the cement contact the window track.
As the directions say on the Weatherstripping Cement, it needs something to hold pressure on it until dry. Since you got that window rolled down, it would be a good idea to leave it like that for a while.
Now that you are all done, it's time for a test! Roll your window down a little bit and shut your door.
04-17-2003 | 03:49 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,561
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From: Dallas
Originally posted by Meguel24
ok i take it back, but to a regular person thats alot of work, ever tried puting the door panel back on. Can take 15 mins to 60 mins. All luck or knowing what yr doing.
ok i take it back, but to a regular person thats alot of work, ever tried puting the door panel back on. Can take 15 mins to 60 mins. All luck or knowing what yr doing.