I have looked into both and figured in CA, its better to rebuild as any kind of swap is gonna take some work to get it to pass smog/ get it reffed. . .

I hear it is best to keep the same vin, right now running a different Ls motor, but not JDM. . . planning a rebuild on my stock LS just to keep my vin the same. I heard once you slap a JDM in you have to take it to a ref to get it checked to ensure you will have no issues with passing smog. . . but most places don't check the vin on your engine to make sure it matches the car, so it may not matter unless you fail smog and have to figure out why. . .

It should run the same, but you have to change out the engine harness as the JDM harness inside and engine bay is different from USDM. If memory serves you will only have to change the engine bay harness. . .

Anything you change on your engine will make the car run different, some things you can feel the change others you cannot, it is just the JDM engine is made to different specs and not so may regulations, thats why they are faster. . .

I think a rebuilt will run just as good as a swap. . . if you are replacing warn parts, then those replaced parts will be in better condition than the parts in the swap with 30 to 40k on em. . . Also you have a honda, these engines are made to last, my stock went out at 157k(actually took too long to change oil and lost lubrication, so head heated and spark plugs expanded, once I get the holes re-threaded and broken plugs removed it will be ready for my rebuild) if the plugs didn't expand my engine would still be running fine. The engine I put in had 93k on it and it runs the same. . . As long as you take care of it, maintenance wise, it will run great for a long time. . . Think about it that motor with 30 to 40k will eventually have 180k on it and if it is taken care of, it will run just the same. . .

As for the "frankenstein" all that is, is putting a VTEC (GSR or Type-R) head on a non-VTEC block, so you could not use your block, but can use your head. . . For me, I think the head is easier to work on, but have not done any block work yet. . .

If you are gonna spend money to do anything to your engine, and care about the engine lasting, you should just upgrade to aftermarket parts that add more HP, because "frankenstein" you have to do block work to ensure the block can handle the head and to ensure the pistons don't hit and if you are gonna do block work, you would be better off upgrading your internals in your GSR block then downgrading and doing the same thing to another block. . . Same goes for the head, why buy a rebuilt one if you can upgrade the current one. . .

Basically, if you do internal upgrades, you will be replacing everything you would when you rebuild anyways, but now getting more Hp due to the upgrades. . . I was thinking about a JDM swap as well, but then figured I can build my Ls with the $2500 i would spend to get a JDM B18C. . .

So if your gonna spend the money its up to you. . . 1 go JDM and have someone else do the work for you and just drive away or 2 upgrade internals and rebuild (this way you can play some part in the work and get to know your car) and save a little $$$ depending on your upgrades. . .

 

sent you an email, but if it didn't go threw you can download it here:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1XUR049N

 

Good to know I'm not the only one who thought this was high. I kept snapping them off.

The only real difference between US and JDM motors is a few HP and another thousand dollars or so. IMO it's not really worth it for JDM, unless you just want to tell people you have a JDM motor.

If you're going to rebuild, there's plenty of people on here, including myself, who have rebuilt honda motors. You will find plenty of assistance here.

 

This is not exactly true. When you rebuild a motor, you're pretty much rolling the clock back on it to 0 miles. You have to think you're replacing all the worn out parts; rings, seals, gaskets, etc.

 

Thanks for the download reaper...i looked over it and it does seem a bit time consuming, but hopefully i'll be able to rebuild my original motor.... for now, i will have to get an obdII jdm swap so i can be in and out of the shop.... it's my only car. no one wants to buy my motor...i've gotten offers for like 400, 500 dollars...

hopefully i can find someone who will apppreciate a factory spec, never been opened, stolen, or tampered 2000 obdII usdm gsr motor.... it's in southern cali right now so let me know... i'm open for anything.

i'm trying to put some pictures up but i'm having some trouble...

 

Thank you all for taking your interest to reply to my post. So i've ran into a OBD2 B18c5 complete bottom block for sale... this guy claims that he actually purchased it from a dealer through an "insider" and is wrapped up and has never been used before... do those even exist?

Anyways, i'll be examining it tomorrow to see how legit this block of metal really is (any advice is appreciated in looking for the right things).

If i were to purchase this motor, what will i need to replace or be aware of when installing it into my 2000 gsr. I'm going to machine and rebuild my original gsr head and attach it to this type R block with my original gsr tranny. Any advice or recommendations? Is it possible to convert my gsr head into a type R?

Thanks!

 

You should be able to just swap all your gsr parts onto the itr block. They are essentially the same motor, block wise. The itr head is the same as the gsr with a mild hand port and different cams.

 

So i went ahead and bought this usdm type R motor. he fooled me really well if that type r block was ever used or is broken inside because i was not able to find one single sign wear and tear.... does the assembly oil ever go away? he said he had it covered indoors away from the sun but you can still see fresh assembly oil throughout the entire motor....

so couple of quick question as i plan to rebuild the head only over this three day weekend and just want to make sure i have all the parts before i get it machined and put back together....

I'm still not quite sure what kind of technical upgrades i will be getting if i were to upgrade the gsr cams, retainers and valve springs. Will stock gsr parts run normal and strong with the type R block while keeping the motor to last? will there be any settings and minor parts that is worth replacing such as fuel pump, tranny stuff, ecu, etc.... i'm so lost lol... so many "type R" parts and "gsr" parts out there when it is supposedly all the same stuff.... i do plan to change to a itr cluster... will my motor be sync to the type R cluster and will my redline be at 8.4k?

Thanks guys... i hope to put up some pictures once it's all ready to swap.... i still can't believe i got this bottom block as cheap as i did....

 

It's most likely been used and rebuilt. If it was a clean job, really the only way to tell would the to spec out the cylinder bores or check the rotating assembly for wear.