Notices

Brake Pedal Slowly Goes to Floor

Thread Tools
 
Old 08-19-2009 | 08:36 AM
  #11  
JoePoonani's Avatar
JoePoonani
Lexus Tech y0!!
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,321
Likes: 1
From: CT
Default

Good to hear that you figured this out. There might be air in the lines so just bleed them first. Did you use a line wrench for the fittings? Open ended wrenches are more prone to slipping.
Old 08-19-2009 | 11:05 AM
  #12  
AcuraLsSE's Avatar
AcuraLsSE
ASE Certified
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 1
From: The 503
Default

Sounds like air in the lines to me. Be sure not to forget to bleed them.
Old 08-19-2009 | 08:42 PM
  #13  
Spec R's Avatar
Spec R
Moderator
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 14,429
Likes: 0
From: Beverly Hills, CA
Default

yeah theres no way theres NOT air in the system after swapping out the MC. bleed the rest of the system asap.
__________________
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
Old 08-30-2009 | 03:13 AM
  #14  
CraigK's Avatar
CraigK
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Default

Just a follow-up to this thread.

As expected and indicated by myself and others, once the brake system was properly bled, pedal feel stiffened considerably.

Also, please note that the part number I specified above for Dorman (HELP! brand) Speed Bleeder bleeder valves was NOT correct. The Dorman# 12705 speed bleeder valves DID NOT FIT either the front or rear calipers on my car. The 12705's are M8 thread (8mm), and the actual bleeder valves on my 92 Teg appear to be M10 (10mm). Perhaps all of my brake calipers have been replaced with aftermarket units that have different sized valves, but none were the specified M8's. If I am able to identify a Speed Bleeder product that fits (Dorman Tech was no help), I'll post the brand and part#.

CraigK
Old 08-30-2009 | 06:58 AM
  #15  
JoePoonani's Avatar
JoePoonani
Lexus Tech y0!!
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,321
Likes: 1
From: CT
Default

If you buy aftermarket calipers they will usually have a different bleeder screw of a different size. I usually just have a friend help me bleed each caliper when I replace them. When done properly it should only take 10 minutes at the most if you already gravity bled the calipers. That's why I say save your money and buy something more useful, like a cordless 3/8 impact driver :irock:
Old 07-14-2010 | 12:16 PM
  #16  
Waqarm's Avatar
Waqarm
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default Master Brake Cylinder Question

I have a master cylinder that is leaking internally on a 96 Integra GSR with ABS--the pedal falls to floor and repumping it builds up pressure.

I would appreciate any comments about the following questions.

1. (a) How does replacing seals compare with replacing the whole cylinder in terms of difficulty, and (b) where can I get seals (I have not been able to find any place that carries seals and the only seal I have found anyone to carry is the rod seal that goes between the cylinder and the booster)?

2. When I speak with a mechanic about a remanufactured master cylinder, they say they would not install it to avoid recurring issues. They said that the remanufactured ones are made from Aluminum whereas the good quality ones are made from steel. Any comments about using a remanufactured master cylinder?

3. Does anyone have feedback about Centric components. Because brakes are critical, I have considered going to a mechanic. He uses PBR or Alder and says if I provide a Centric (which costs significantly less) and have him install, there would be a question about warranty and labor charges if anything comes up again.

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Waqarm; 07-14-2010 at 12:19 PM.




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:21 AM.