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Old 06-21-2009 | 11:11 AM
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Default Multiple Questions.

Have Multiple Noob Questions About my 2000 Acura ITR.

1. If i Change my Final drive to a 4.9 FD should i change cam gears / shafts as well? Any Information would be extremely helpful

2. Wanted to add some Forced Induction and have heard multiple arguments between JRSC and a Turbo. So i'm leaning toward a turbo. Any suggestions?

3. What else can i do to add torque? Still learning about the car, So Any information would be helpful .
Old 06-21-2009 | 11:43 AM
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#1: A more aggressive cam would be helpful, but it certainly isn't mandatory.
#2: Consult the FAQ. While the big MP62 blower used in the JRSC for the ITR is a nice unit, you will ultimately get more power per dollar with an appropriately sized turbo.
#3: See #2. Granted, nitrous oxide is also an option to FI. But if you're considering a JRSC, I assume you're worrying about smog legality as well.
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Old 06-21-2009 | 11:48 AM
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-TheOtherDave

#1/2 - Thank you very much. So currently i'm on a low budget, so i'll probably start off with the FD andt hen move on to the Turbo, i hear Garrett is a good manufacturer.
#3 - I'm actually a bit scared to add a nitrous system to my car. Mostly afraid of completely wrecking my car injecting it wrong or something. LoL.

Are there any Build threads that start from a Stock ITR into a monster? lol.

Also dave,
I hear a lot about drilling the engine from a 1.8L to a 2.0L can you tell me how and why people do this? or should i look in FAQ?
Old 06-22-2009 | 12:03 AM
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An upgraded final drive is a very good start.

Nitrous is what you make it.. It can be safer than turbocharging, and it can be more dangerous. It depends on the tune. I suggest Hondata (S200/300) since they have switchable maps for nitrous on the fly.

Because you're on a budget, you're going to have to make some choices. Either you piece together a turbo kit, or you buy a lower end one. You can piece one together for pretty cheap, get a decent manifold (not eBay!!) a turbo like a 14b from a DSM, etc. I suggest looking around online and doing research. One thing you cannot skimp on is the tune, at all. A shitty tune shows, and you pay several times more in the long run.

As for 'drilling', you mean boring. I highly suggest NOT boring out stock sleeves. If you want a 2.0L block, get yours sleeved, or buy a sleeved block. Good companies are; AEBS, Darton, Golden Eagle, etc.

As for build threads, there's not many here. Check out Team-Integra.net. The forum as far as a community sucks, but there's some really good info in the articles section.
Old 06-22-2009 | 09:18 AM
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-pslsnakes

Thanks alot. I'll look into the Hondata and nitrous.
Most likely will lay off the um, boring on the engine to get a 2.0L.

So a Tune and a Turbo and a FD will be my start i guess.
Thanks a lot and i'll check out that website!
Old 06-22-2009 | 03:08 PM
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Was just curious w/ the ITR you want boost. Most people tend to stay all motor w/ the ITR. Usually people get a GSR if they plan on boosting.
Nice car though. So which color you have black or yellow?
Old 06-22-2009 | 08:30 PM
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-gingas

the reason that most people boost GSR's instead of ITR's is because the engine
can take it better . right?
It's still safe to turbo my integra tho correct?

And Yellow with black carbon fiber hood
Old 06-22-2009 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jetyee
-gingas

the reason that most people boost GSR's instead of ITR's is because the engine
can take it better . right?
It's still safe to turbo my integra tho correct?

And Yellow with black carbon fiber hood
I would hold off on the final drive just yet.. If you're going to boost, you're probably want the slightly lower gearing to combat wheel spin, since the ITR tranny is already very short geared. The reason you see more boosted GSR's is because the GSR cost considerably less than a B18C5, and it's not worth it to spend thousands of dollars more for 25 more horse power when you're boosting it any way.

A GSR doesn't 'take it better', they're both completely the same. the only difference between a GSR and ITR is the tranny, the head is a factory ported B16 head, slightly more aggressive cams and a better valve train.

Oh, and post pics of your caR
Old 06-23-2009 | 02:20 PM
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-pslsnakes

okay i'll try to get some pictures up asap
just wondering though. without a turbo or any forced induction.
How much WHP and WTQ can the 2000 acura ITR hit?
Old 06-23-2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jetyee
-pslsnakes

okay i'll try to get some pictures up asap
just wondering though. without a turbo or any forced induction.
How much WHP and WTQ can the 2000 acura ITR hit?
It depends.. how much do you want to spend? I'm making 170whp and 124ft lbs with just intake, a crappy cheapo DC header, and cheap 2.25" exhaust with a tune.

Without getting new pistons and rods and all that, 220ish to the wheels is very doable. Get a good intake like a Comptech, a good header like Hytech, RMF, Kamakazi, etc. Some good cams, I like Crowers, and Toda, and a good exhaust as well as a tune. To tune, you're going to need to convert to OBDI. To do so you need a OBDII to OBDI jumper harness, and an OBDI ECU, such as a P28 or P72.



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