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Old 06-11-2009 | 10:13 PM
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BKKloppenborg
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Default Need help i am going crazy!

Hey guys been a very long time been really busy ,been having bad issues with my Teg latley. First it was a trans swap, (Never going back to that "Performance place." The job was not impressive and really half-assed. Ever since then i have had a check engine light, never checked it until 2 months ago. It was for the Map sensor, low voltage. i think po108 if i remember. So went around crazy with that and today FINALLY got it, with the help of Jun from Apexi. BTY no one get the boomslang plug in play harness for the Neo, its not really plug in play 2 wires are wrong. That was why i was have issues with car and running so damn rich. Good thing was when got wires right on boomslang check engine light is gone, but now car runs like Shit. At idle its mostly fine and can idle all day long. As soon as i hit the gas it sputters and will not go past 2.5K rpms and threatens to die and sometimes does. I need you guys help i am out of ideas almost have 2 left, and still need to pass smog by June. I am already in extra fees mode.

So far checked: Oxygen sensors, TPS, MAP, Exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition rotor, distributor cap, ECU wiring, and Neo settings.

Fixed: Both Oxygen sensors, (One got a code, other one was due anyways), Spark plugs, Ignition rotor, Neo settings were wrong (Was one Karman Sensor compared to Pressure), fuel filter, Then of course ECU wiring was fixed.

Only few things i can think of are:
Ignition timing Live data on OBD2 scanner said ign timming was 14.5-22 changed alot these also seems wrong to me.
Fuel Pump (was thinking about replacing it anyways its probaly almost time 90-100 bux) for performance Walbro 255
Cat clogged

Thanks for your input

Last edited by BKKloppenborg; 06-11-2009 at 10:27 PM.
Old 06-12-2009 | 01:11 PM
  #2  
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It's going to cost you some money, but have a local tuner check it out.
Old 06-12-2009 | 11:02 PM
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I wil try that. I am checking Cat and timming tomarow. I checked Live data on code reader and i also notice when you first turn on car first one-three quick revs no probelms after that or about 3-6 seconds is when its wired will not go past 2K and sputters. Map sensor i know is good and TPS. With ignition timming is it suposed to go up with rpms? Live data is 16 idle then goes anywhere from 14-30 degrees when i try to rev it to about 1.5 it goes it 30 degrees is that bad? I have no experance with timming. Was going to ask my friend that has a GSR to help tommarow.
Old 06-13-2009 | 05:52 AM
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Yes, the ignition timing will start to advance past it's idle setting as soon as the rpms increase. 16 BTDC at idle is correct for your car.

There were no other codes stored besides for the MAP? Even if you don't currently have a solid CEL, I'd check for stored codes. If you didn't reset the ECU after fixing the wiring I'd do that, and then if the CEL comes on while driving at any point, check what code(s) it is.
Old 06-13-2009 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by A-series
Yes, the ignition timing will start to advance past it's idle setting as soon as the rpms increase. 16 BTDC at idle is correct for your car.

There were no other codes stored besides for the MAP? Even if you don't currently have a solid CEL, I'd check for stored codes. If you didn't reset the ECU after fixing the wiring I'd do that, and then if the CEL comes on while driving at any point, check what code(s) it is.
Just the map and was a oxygen sensor code. Both are now gone now. No check engine light or pending codes right now.

I do notice that when i try to rev, my dome light in car gets dimmer until i stop and it recovers.

Last edited by BKKloppenborg; 06-13-2009 at 11:15 AM.
Old 06-13-2009 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BKKloppenborg
I do notice that when i try to rev, my dome light in car gets dimmer until i stop and it recovers.
:ugh: Maybe look over the main grounds, at the battery, trans., valvecover...

So it starts fine, drives (although not well) and can be shut off and restarted fine?
And to clarify, it didn't run like shit before you fixed the wiring issue and got the CEL to go away?
Old 06-14-2009 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by A-series
:ugh: Maybe look over the main grounds, at the battery, trans., valvecover...

So it starts fine, drives (although not well) and can be shut off and restarted fine?
And to clarify, it didn't run like shit before you fixed the wiring issue and got the CEL to go away?
It starts fine, Then idles fine, i can rev it first few seconds with no issues. Then it will sputter and the rev jumps up and down and sputters really bad trying to accelerate if i hit the gas to hard.

No check engine codes still, It ran better when i had the map sensor messed up 2 wires were mixed up on the ecu. After that map sensor code is gone, but it was running pretty well just richer then hell. Now it runs worse by far, i think my timming is just fed up now that map sensor is fixed.
Old 06-17-2009 | 09:37 PM
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If anyone wanted to know.. It was RTV silicone that somone had used to seal up a vaccum leak around the throttle body. It leaked down into the little groove that the map sensor reads from so the map sensor was fine i just had no readings from it=running like crap
Old 06-19-2009 | 11:21 PM
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Never would've guessed that. Glad you got it fixed :goodjob:

Where had they actually applied the RTV, around the base of the MAP or somewhere else?
Strange that it would migrate elsewhere too, since normally it'll stay in place one it's setup :shrug:
Old 06-20-2009 | 08:51 AM
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whats the idle voltage on the scanner for map and tps?

can u also tell me the long term fuel trim of the car at idle.




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