My car grinds gears when i put them in gear sometimes, mostly just 3rd and sometimes 4th.. When the car is cold it doesnt grind at all.. Its a used tranny that had 45k miles on it that i bought from Honda/acura used parts place on the net, they seemed pretty popular so i felt they were reliable...

It sometimes seems hard to put into gear, as well, it wotn grind but it will stop, then go into gear.. I have a exedy clutch with around 10k on it, i havnt done 1 burnout, or dumped the clutch ever. Im not sure if these trannies have em or not, but i was thinking possibly shifter-forks? and if its possibility, how much are those to fix?

BTW ive changed 2 trannies b4, and i did this one myself, did one on another friends integra and it worked fine, so i know im not messing up too much I really hope its not synchro's.. i dont think it is, cause with bad synchros usually u can slide it into gear at a certain RPM and it wont grind, but the way this is now, it will grind at any rpm...

P.S. if i really get on it, comming out of first, and if i put it in second quickly, itll do a quick grind.... It really hurts me to hear that noise, so i take it soo easy on it.. I am open to any suggestions.
Thanks.

 

hmmm i wish i could say, is there any leaks in the system? the hydro systems are pretty straight forward though.

 

91integrals,
As Lueb points out, the first thing I'd check would be the operation of the clutch hydraulics. Perhaps there is air in the system and the slave piston isn't extending fully. In any case, bleeding the thing out won't hurt anything...and do check for leaks in case you have a seal going south.
On a similar note, I'd change out the tranny fluid soon too, you want to get all of those little metal bits your creating out of there asap.
All trannys have to have some sort of fork mechanism, but I'd say focus on the simple stuff first.
Bogatyr

 

can you flush the system fully, like vacuum it out or something with pressure to get everything out or is that what happens?

 

Lueb,
Yes, you can bleed a hydraulic system in a number of ways. One tool that I've recently purchased is a pressure bleeder. You fill up the bleeder's reservoir with fluid and attach the cap to the MC. Then you pump it up to about 7psi. Next, you open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder until you get clean fluid or no bubbles, depending on what you're doing.
I have used a MityVac in the past to suck the fluid out from the slave end, but I find the pressure system a lot easier, especially for brakes, you don't have to keep running back to the MC to make sure there's enough fluid in the MC reservoir.
Other than that, you can use the pedal or gravity, but for $50 or so the power bleeder makes the job easy, especially if you have a number of vehicles to take care of.
Bogatyr

 

okay cool, thanks

 

hehe well, thanks for the information, ill keep it in mind... But my clutch is cable adjusted

Ive adjusted it many different directions to be sure this isnt the cause, and if the clutch wasnt disengaging fully, couldnt i test it by having it in first, with car totally stopped with clutch engaged to floor, it would drop in RPM would it not? however it doesnt move from the standard 750rpm idle.

 

91integrals,
Oops, I guess I should have known that as my wife had a 1990 Integra a few years back...let's call that selective memory, I hated working on that thing.
Anyway, did you make sure the release shaft arm has the right amount of freeplay? Hmm, doesn't the adjusting nut just change the amount of freeplay?
What I also find interesting is that you mention it doesn't grind when it's cold. What sort of oil do you have in there?
Bogatyr

 

Well, I would like to go outside to look, but because i got hit on the drivers side a while back, was minor damage, its in the body shop, but iw ill have it home tomarrow to look... I know that the adjusting nut adjusts the tension of the clutch cable, which pulls the arm that controls the throw-out bearing.

I noticed when i had taken out my transmission(and on the other one i did) there was a small line running from somewhere on the bottom side of the engine, into that part that your speedometer cable runs into, and what looked like engine oil came out of the line. It was fresh engine oil seeing as how i had just changed my oil not a week earlier.. I asked around to be sure what kind of oil to use, and i was told 10w-40 engine oil was to be used... Now, before hand, in the old transmission, there was no grindage, but because of the honda's weak differential was why i blew up the transmission, and red automatic trans oil was what came out of the busted transmission... Was a nasty site BTW, the differential literally exploded, destroying the bell housing on 2 sides, and small gears were all over the ground..


BTW i love working on my G2Integra, well, then again, after you poor your own blood and sweat and money into a car, anyone might loving working on something

 

91integrals,
Ya, I looked at a manual and saw the nut does just that. Jeepers, the only other thing I can think of is that the clutch disk is out of friction material or the throwout bearing isn't fully engaging the disk...
Hmm, 10/40 huh? For our Hondas 10/30 was recommended, but I stuck with the RedLine MTL. You had red ATF in the old tranny? Yeesh...that's prolly why your tranny grenaded.
Well, I'm glad you like working on the Integra. A lot of these modern cars just have no room in the engine bay. My Civic is pretty good and the wife's 96 Civic is ok. My CRX is a mess of vacum lines. That's why I like the Rovers.
Bogatyr