Sudden engine problem + Code 71 (2000 teg)
#1
Sudden engine problem + Code 71 (2000 teg)
Hello, this post regards a 2000 Integra GSR.
I see from many of these threads that a "code 71 misfire" is usually a sign that ignition maintenance is needed... and that few symptoms develop in these situations.
But, tonight, when slowing down through a turn, my car suddenly bucked a little, the engine light began blinking, and ran rough the entire way home.
Right now, it is throwing a code 71, and the engine is idling roughly.
With this sudden onset of symptoms, should I start looking for something more serious than just an ignition system tune up?
I see from many of these threads that a "code 71 misfire" is usually a sign that ignition maintenance is needed... and that few symptoms develop in these situations.
But, tonight, when slowing down through a turn, my car suddenly bucked a little, the engine light began blinking, and ran rough the entire way home.
Right now, it is throwing a code 71, and the engine is idling roughly.
With this sudden onset of symptoms, should I start looking for something more serious than just an ignition system tune up?
#3
Get a set of plugs and wires and go from there, but that should be the culprit.
My '95 GSR started doing that, and I bought EVERY thing to try and fix it. From the 02 sensor to a fuel filter, and it turned out to be a cracked insulator on the plug wire.
My '95 GSR started doing that, and I bought EVERY thing to try and fix it. From the 02 sensor to a fuel filter, and it turned out to be a cracked insulator on the plug wire.
#4
Thank you for the quick replies.
I ran to walmart, since it was the only place open, and bought their best plugs, which I just finished installing. I didn't even bother looking to see if they have wires, I will get those somewhere else.
When replacing the plugs, the metal end of the #2 wire pulled out of the boot, but I was able to slide the boot off and crimp the end back on. But, now I have a misfire code on both cylinder #1 and #2. So, even though I made the problem worse, I think you guys were right that it was a simple fix since #2 is misfiring despite what appeared to be an adequate connection. I fully expect that both #1 and #2 will work once I get those new wires... at least I hope so, it would be nice to drive home for christmas.
I ran to walmart, since it was the only place open, and bought their best plugs, which I just finished installing. I didn't even bother looking to see if they have wires, I will get those somewhere else.
When replacing the plugs, the metal end of the #2 wire pulled out of the boot, but I was able to slide the boot off and crimp the end back on. But, now I have a misfire code on both cylinder #1 and #2. So, even though I made the problem worse, I think you guys were right that it was a simple fix since #2 is misfiring despite what appeared to be an adequate connection. I fully expect that both #1 and #2 will work once I get those new wires... at least I hope so, it would be nice to drive home for christmas.
Last edited by rogue13_13; 12-22-2008 at 07:51 PM.
#5
It shouldn't matter if the metal connector part stocks out a litte.
Switch the wires around, like use cylinder #1's wire for #2 etc to see if the same cylinders keep misfiring or different ones.
That'll be the sign that the wires are the problem.
Switch the wires around, like use cylinder #1's wire for #2 etc to see if the same cylinders keep misfiring or different ones.
That'll be the sign that the wires are the problem.
#6
Unfortunately, I don't have the time to play with the wires tonight... besides, I need new wires anyway. Just to be sure and save some time, I plan on buying a new rotor and cap as well.
I will definitely report back.
P.S. I inadvertently popped a wire off of the distributor and noticed there seemed to be plenty of spark when putting it back on, at least for that cylinder; so I am hoping that means I don't have to worry about the distributor or coil.
thanks
I will definitely report back.
P.S. I inadvertently popped a wire off of the distributor and noticed there seemed to be plenty of spark when putting it back on, at least for that cylinder; so I am hoping that means I don't have to worry about the distributor or coil.
thanks
#7
Actually, nevermind that last post.
I decided it would be better to go back and take another look. I didn't switch any wires just yet, but did pull wire #1 and used an old spark plug to check spark... and it looks like I may have plenty of spark.
So... this may turn into a mystery problem if spark is not the problem. But I still plan on getting newwires just in case, especially since the problem has gotten MUCH worse since I changed the plugs. Now the car is almost not drivable.... so I am hoping that I just damaged the already bad wires...
I decided it would be better to go back and take another look. I didn't switch any wires just yet, but did pull wire #1 and used an old spark plug to check spark... and it looks like I may have plenty of spark.
So... this may turn into a mystery problem if spark is not the problem. But I still plan on getting newwires just in case, especially since the problem has gotten MUCH worse since I changed the plugs. Now the car is almost not drivable.... so I am hoping that I just damaged the already bad wires...
Last edited by rogue13_13; 12-22-2008 at 08:45 PM.
#8
It's not spark that's the problem, it's delivery of the spark.
In my case, since an insulator on the plug wire (that goes onto the plug) was cracked, the spark was grounding out in the tube, and not firing on the plug, causing a misfire.
Get newe wires and go from there.
In my case, since an insulator on the plug wire (that goes onto the plug) was cracked, the spark was grounding out in the tube, and not firing on the plug, causing a misfire.
Get newe wires and go from there.
#9
Ouch, when i woke up this morning, the car wouldn't start at all. I had noticed it wouldn't start for a few cranks last night, but attributed that to a few bad spark plug wires. Now, several cranks later, it is not starting, and it doesn't even sound like it is trying to start.
So.... I am leaning towards fuel problem. Do you think the wires could still be the problem?
So.... I am leaning towards fuel problem. Do you think the wires could still be the problem?
#10
UPDATE:
So I got a ride to the parts store, and picked up some Heet and plug wires. I put the heet in first, and attempted to start. Nothing. I then changed the plug wires and attempted to start... engine coughed a bit, but didn't start immediately. A few minutes later it started right up after a little cranking. So, I am thinking that the heet took some time to work and finally solved whatever problem I had with the fuel.
BUT - The car is running (almost) perfectly and not throwing any codes, but on my ten mile test drive, the car bucked and almost stalled during several takeoffs. I added 4 more gallons of premium to top it off, then continued driving. THe car still bucked a few time little under load at low rpms.
I am thinking that I need to invest in a fuel pressure guage? Any thoughts?
So I got a ride to the parts store, and picked up some Heet and plug wires. I put the heet in first, and attempted to start. Nothing. I then changed the plug wires and attempted to start... engine coughed a bit, but didn't start immediately. A few minutes later it started right up after a little cranking. So, I am thinking that the heet took some time to work and finally solved whatever problem I had with the fuel.
BUT - The car is running (almost) perfectly and not throwing any codes, but on my ten mile test drive, the car bucked and almost stalled during several takeoffs. I added 4 more gallons of premium to top it off, then continued driving. THe car still bucked a few time little under load at low rpms.
I am thinking that I need to invest in a fuel pressure guage? Any thoughts?
Last edited by rogue13_13; 12-23-2008 at 09:50 AM.