94 LS SiR 209

alright, ive got a 94 LS... i relize i have no top end what so ever, well... everyone pulls in 3rd hard anyway. I want to build up my head but before i do i wanted to get some peoples thoughts on it.
I want to go.. crower cams.. B18A/B Engine - Pair - Stage 2 Street/Strip (259/261 Advance, 214/216 @ 050, 442/434 Lift) with there titanium retainers and there duel valve springs. what kind of gain would i get doing that. I only have AEM cold air intake right now.


1/4 = 15.9 @ 86mph stock with aem cold air

thanks for your help.

DB7 2.0

a GSR tranny will help more than initial headwork and cost a less...

and with cams, get the 404 cams for the nonVTEC and along with the valvetrain, youre going to want to get your throttle body bored and ported and intake manifold and head also ported and matched. then youre going to want to get adjustable cam gears...then youll also want some kinda fuel system...adj fuel pressure riser, fuel control unit. and a good set of 4-1 header, cat, and exhaust system will help a lot if you build up the head.

MrFatbooty

The 404 cams idle like a Harley. If you don't mind that, go for em. Otherwise the 403s are nice.

But, get a header and exhaust before you mess with the cams.

Louse76

Ok, who the hell taught you this?

First, get a Skunk2 IM instead of boring out your stock one. Why the hell would you bore out your stock intake manifold? The runners remain the same length. The function of your intake manifold is basically to place your torque. Boring out the stock IM will not change this, but swapping IM's will.

I don't have a dyno of the Skunk2 IM on an LS, but I do have a dyno of the ITR IM on an LS, and they are very similar, they both gut the midrange for top end. Check the dyno:



Portmatching the IM to the head is also a bad idea. The larger port on the IM flange creates an anti-reversion dam. Hogging out a port is ok on an inefficient V8 IM and head but not on a Honda head and single plenum, isolated runners type of IM. The gasket rule is a maximum size not a goal to shoot for.

Also, the large Plenulum of the Skunk 2 IM likes a small throttle body, so your stock one is just fine, no need to waste money porting it out, though it would be a good idea in this case to get it port-matched to the IM....

DB7 2.0

who the hell taught me this?! :squint:

i ran a built up LS head last year, and i have several friends who have been building honda engines from back in the day. yes the intake runners remain the same length when you port it, no sh*t there sherlock. and porting is a bad idea? i think you have the concept of boring and porting confused. boring simply is increasing everything inside, porting is done to increase velocity not mass of the air. yes, the intake runner lengths help achieve torque, and that is why i suggested keeping it...to retain the torque creating abilities. then by porting it, the IM then will be able to allow air to flow at a higher velocity, thus increasing top end also.

do you know what the difference between a stock throttlebody thats been ported and a stock throttle body thats been bored out? the former is one that has a larger intake diameter going to a near stock sized exit diameter to the intake manifold. a bored one is simply big all over from entrance to exit. naturally aspirated engines need to have products to enhance intake velocity while forced induced cars just need big straight through products since the turbo/supercharger is creating the velocity themselves.

the ITR intake manifold will work on an LS head no doubt. but the way the runners are designed, and im not talking about the length, does not flow into the head and into the combustion chambers in the most efficient manner. yes each opening will line up and be the same size, but so? have u ever really looked at the shape of the intake runners themselves as they lead into the head? its designed efficiently so the way the air flows into chamber at the proper swirl. otherwise, if Honda was only concerned about runner length, they would have made all the B-series intake manifolds the same by having them enter directly at the head from the side at 0 degrees and then adjust the length according to whatever specs they want...but no thats not how it works. look at all the B-series intake manifolds and dont look at just the ports to see if theyre the same..look at how the runners angle into the head.

and then porting it again... yes if the port was dramatically increased on the intake manifold and the head wasnt, then thats no good...why? because it f*cks up the air flow efficiency into the head. but when you port the stock intake manifold its to help improve the efficiency of air flow and velocity. not to just gut the intake manifold to make it "big" on the inside...then having it port matched to the head finishes up the giant intake "velocity stack" system that you want and enter the combustion chambers at a higher volume but more importantly higher velocity than before.

again i think you have porting and boring confused. big difference there guy. having the intake manifold port matched to the head is the same concept as having the throttle body portmatched to the intake manifold...dunno why you would agree with one of them especially the one you chose is less significant than the other.

remember, magazine racing is a bad for your health...so is trying to sound like a honda tech based only on information you read from Sport Compact Car and the like.

MrFatbooty

Thank you Eddie! I was getting sick of correcting his posts.

DB7 2.0

94 LS SiR 209

thanks guys, before i actually order anything.. i need to know which ones to get. This is a daily driven go to school... go to work kinda car but also.. so which cams should i get ? stage 1 or 2 ??? the car is stock except for aem cold air intake. i do want to get 4-1 header and hollow out my cat.

B18A/B Engine - Pair - Stage 1 Street Use (255/253 Advance, 210/208 @ 050, 423/413 Lift)

B18A/B Engine - Pair - Stage 2 Street/Strip (259/261 Advance, 214/216 @ 050, 442/434 Lift)

B18A/B Engine - Dual Valve Spring Set
B18A/B Engine - Titanium Retainer Set

will i need adjustable cam gears for those cams ?

thanks for the help!

pomansouth

you dont have to put adjustable cam gears on anything but if you want maximum tuning out of those cams then you will ned adjustable cam gears. dont get aem cam gears, go with skunks or something with more then 3 or 4 bolts to hold the cam gear in place. also i think you will be fine running stage 2 but its up to you. gl on your choice and let us know what happens

DB7 2.0

if those are your two choices of cams and youre set on that decision, then get the 2nd one...the first one is not even worth the money. i had the Crower 403 cams for the LS and it idled like 100% stock. as for your cat, the free method would be to gut it, but id suggest either a straight pipe or a high flow aftermarket cat. cam gears, dont get AEM, i had AEM and the bolts they use suck, they strip to easily...plus its only held on by 3 bolts...get something that has atleast 4. the retainers are a good idea since itll be much lighter than stock retainers, but they really arent "necessary", but it will be more efficient than the stock ones. same goes for the dual springs, you wont "need" them, but its a good idea to get it along with the cams. so, if you get the cams and the retainers and dual valve springs, youre probably going to want to raise your rev limit to about 7500-8000 at the most, in order to get the use out of those cams...but itll be worth the money in comparison to the first set of cams on stock valvetrain.