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Old 11-10-2002 | 06:12 PM
  #11  
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Originally posted by Laserguided
Neuspeed tie bars and strut bars are cheaper than others but are just as good. It's cheapest to go with an 22mm OEM ITR sway bar on the rear and a 24mm GSR bar on the front. For the rear you'll need a reinforcement kit like the Beaks or BSQ kit. Actually you can get by without replacing the 22mm front sway bar (I'm assuming you have a G3 LS, GS, or RS) Apart from that you can get your rubber bushings replaced (time consuming and costly) with polyurethane.

Yeah, this was the reason I quoted comptech; they have their own "reinforcement kit". The way it's packaged together makes it ez for mechanically challenged f00s like me h:

Shingo
Old 11-10-2002 | 07:30 PM
  #12  
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best front strut bar would be the four point mount from Neuspeed, they brace at the upper control arm mount screw (or camber adustment for ingalls). everything else really depends on spring rates and shocks that you've got....if you want more oversteer/neutral/understeer
Old 11-10-2002 | 09:11 PM
  #13  
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Originally posted by joebenz
actually, i do have a gsr. and since i do, you're saying no need to get a front sway bar
Yeah, you already have a 24mm front sway bar.

The Comptech setup is good. It incorporates the reinforcement kit, rear lower tie bar, and 22mm rear sway bar. It's also adjustable for stiffness. I think it costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $360? It might be cheaper though to get an OEM ITR sway, the BSQ kit and some other brand of rear lower tie bar (like Neuspeed). I would imagine doing it this way would cost you about $70 + $30 + $80 = $180, so you can see there's a major price difference. IMO the adjustability of the Comptech isn't that useful in your setup unless you get drastically stiffer springs in the rear, requiring you to loosen the back and add more understeer. If I had it I'd just leave it at the highest stiffness, like a regular sway bar. This is assuming you're trying to achieve neutral handling.
Old 11-10-2002 | 09:15 PM
  #14  
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Laserguided:

All 98+ Integra's have a 24mm sway bar, just like the USDM ITR.
Even the RS/LS/GS.

The 97's had 22.5's.
Just FYI.

BTW, Laserguided -- hit me up on AIM/Yahoo/ICQ (my infos in my profile).
Old 11-10-2002 | 10:02 PM
  #15  
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Actually some people downgrade their front sway to increase oversteer. I've also heard of people taking out their stock front strut bar to achieve this degree of oversteer.

Regardless, I would definitely upgrade the rear before the front, you'll notice a bigger difference...

Four point mount? This isn't the same bar that mounts to the firewall is it? Illegal for SoloII STS

Shingo
Old 11-11-2002 | 12:48 AM
  #16  
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Some autoX rules prohibit changes to the rear sway bar so to get around this racers take the front sway out for increased oversteer.

The four point bar connects at the four upper control arm mounting bolts. Would that constitute an alteration to the chassis? Maybe.

joebenz,

This is the simplified version:

The key is to maintain a certain ratio between the front and rear sway bars (in relation to your spring and damping rates on your shocks) so you can have oversteer, understeer or neutral handling, depending on your preference. Once you have that you can increase your sway bars thickness' in keeping with that ratio, to eliminate body roll. The US version of the Type-R has 24mm on the front and 22mm on the rear to give it close to neutral steering (in conjunction with it's spring and damping).
Old 11-11-2002 | 03:26 AM
  #17  
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The only class of SCCA Solo II that doesn't let you play with the rear sway bar is Stock. And in Stock, you can't even change out the springs. So that's not an issue.

The Neuspeed bar doesn't mount to the firewall. It mounts to the upper A-arm bolts. Strut bars mount to the sheetmetal and indirectly allow less deflection of the upper suspension mounting. The Neuspeed isn't really a strut bar in the sense that it doesn't deal with the strut mounts. Regardless, it ties the upper A-arms together and prevents deflection, which is more usefule in a car with a double-wishbone suspension than to just stiffen up the sheetmetal around the shock mounts. Anyway, for any sort of tie bar to be illegal it has to be triangulated with the firewall, which the Neuspeed is not.

I like the Suspension Techniques rear sway/tie combo. Not as expensive as the Comptech setup but similarly effective. It "only" has a 19mm bar but generally people overlook the fact that thickness is not the only determining factor of swaybar efficacy. The geometry of the bar, mainly the length of the virtual lever arm which acts upon the LCA is a huge factor in how much torsional force the bar adds to the suspension. The ST bar is shaped differently from stock (and Comptech which is essentially an ITR bar with adjustable endlinks) and therefore is able to do more with a thinner bar.

Damn, if that wasn't wordy. Cliff's notes:

-Get the Neuspeed front bar, it's legal for STS and DSP if you're concerned with such things.
-Suspension Techniques rear sway/tie combo is dope and cheaper than the Comptech piece.




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