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Cold winter warming?

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Old 11-10-2003 | 11:03 PM
  #41  
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damn talk about from the dead h:
Old 11-10-2003 | 11:05 PM
  #42  
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Clifford remote starters/alarms won't let you remote start if it's in gear. But if it's not in gear, it'll start just fine.
Old 11-10-2003 | 11:16 PM
  #43  
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Never warm up your car. Well never say never, but whatever. Basically, a lot of the wear and tear on your engine is during startup when the engine is cold. So you want the car to warm up as soon as possible. Your engine doesn't like it when it is cold. We all know that with the car sitting there idling, it can take up to 10 min or more to warm up. But if you drive it, the car is warm after only a couple of mins. This is why in the manual it says if you drive a lot for less than 10 min at a time, you should use the extreme oil change schedule. Because the oil and other fluids in your engine never gets warm enough to flow smoothly. I read this from the techheads at www.bobistheoilguy.com.

I normally just start the car, put on my seatbelt, adjust the volume on my stereo and go. 20 seconds is good enough for the airbag and abs light to finish its diagnostics.
Old 11-10-2003 | 11:19 PM
  #44  
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Me... Let the car idle for 3 min to 5 min..
Old 11-11-2003 | 09:04 AM
  #45  
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I do the same as Red GSR... not to say that's right or not, but that's what I've been doing.

Anybody know anything about oil pan heaters? I've requested information from these guys (price, where to buy, etc...), but haven't heard anything back yet. http://www.etipinc.com/universal_app.asp

very bad idea unless you have a diesel--and word to the wise block heaters are illegal in most states --because they have the tendency to overheat and set the car on fire.
Seeing as everyone in Canada has a block heater, and I've never heard of a car fire being started by one, I'm going to call BS on this. But, I've been know to be wrong on occasion.
Old 11-11-2003 | 04:57 PM
  #46  
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Just for the sake of discussion, let's say that you have a 94 GS-R and you also have an OEM block heater and you come from Canada where block heaters don't start fires. Okay?

Where do you install the damn thing???????
Old 11-12-2003 | 07:45 AM
  #47  
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Just found out from Brookfield Acura. Boy, those are great folks up there in Wisconsin. Every time I need information they come through with it on one phone call or e-mail.

You pull the whole engine block drain bolt assembly and replace it with the block heater then wire tie the cord to the heater harness to take it out front.
Old 11-12-2003 | 09:55 PM
  #48  
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In automatic GS-Rs, the transmission shift a lil higher than normal to let the engine warm up faster. I have heard that if you start your car, hold the clutch down a lil longer than usual on cold start, it would help a bit more.

About the E-Brake thingy, I have a few questions just to make sure. I dont live anywhere cold (Arizona), but I do park on inclined grounds, so I was wondering, weather I am inclined on on flat surface, or on a decline, Should I JUST put in it first to park it, or just use the Hand Brakes, or use both? About the Decline slope, should we park it in reverse?
Old 11-12-2003 | 10:33 PM
  #49  
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Warming up the car: not necessary. Just go and drive conservatively. Just give it like 15 seconds to hold a steady idle.

E-brake freezing: my car has experienced sub zero temps and since i went to school in philly and people dont know how to drive i never wanted to park in gear and have my car hit and fvck up a gear. I never had problems with the brake line freezing or the pads freezing to the rotor (which can happen)

VTEC engagement when cold: In my VTEC Lude I hit a redline at 6.5 (the normal redline of an H23) when the car was too cold to hit VTEC. I did this by accident cause i didnt realize the car was cold.

Remote starters on Manual trannies: In NJ i know it is illegal and will not pass inspection if ur dumb enough to tell them or if you leave the instruction booklet on the passenger seat :laugh: However what we do for friends (at work) is we install a selenoid that is grounded when the shifter is in gear. If that selenoid is grounded, the car will not start. I have never done this installation before I just know of it. I also know that it is not 100% effective all the time and it is still risky to try remote starting the car if you know it is in gear. As far as I know, if it does start and it is in gear, it wont take off because the gas pedal has to be depressed for that to happen. Instead the car lurches and stalls. At this point, the remote start tries to restart the car. The cycle is repeated and your car bucks down the drive way or starts "humping your garage wall" This is not good.
Old 11-12-2003 | 10:40 PM
  #50  
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Originally posted by CiViC2nR86

About the E-Brake thingy, I have a few questions just to make sure. I dont live anywhere cold (Arizona), but I do park on inclined grounds, so I was wondering, weather I am inclined on on flat surface, or on a decline, Should I JUST put in it first to park it, or just use the Hand Brakes, or use both? About the Decline slope, should we park it in reverse?
ALWAYS USE THE E-Brake. Park is a gear just like all the rest of them. They can weaken and break just like the rest of them. Parking breaks have been know to fail and let cars careen down hills. setting the parking break adds another element of protection against your car rolling away. Thats also another reason i dont like parking in gear (in a manual trans car) it weakens the gear over time.



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