D

 

It has a lot of miles, may just be some sticking rings. If that's the case some top engine cleaner should loosen em up.

 

I've put a lot of products into this thing, cleaners, sealers, nothing has ever changed, hence the leak down test.

 

An example of someone else's build, similar to mine, good results, I'd like to see 190hp.

FS: Fully built, All-motor B18a1, 180whp/141lb-ft
Crower 404 race cams (300/290 duration, 0.445/0.435 lift)
Crower dual titanium valve springs
Crower titanium retainers
Skunk2 Cam gears
Skunk2 intake manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M adjustable FPR
Spoon Throttle body (70mm)
Custom 3" CAI (can be Converted to short ram for winter)
Balanced & blue-printed bottom end
0.25mm oversize P73-a0 pistons
Knifed, lightened and balanced crank
ACT stage1 clutch
ACT 8lb flywheel
NGK 8mm Wires
MSD distributor cap

210hp and 169lb-ft to the flywheel

 

I forgot to mention I have reprogrammed ECU with a 9,000k RPM limit, so with better internals I'll be able to get more power, vs. my current 6,500 redline.

Not interested in a swap, LS/VTEC, or a different tranny. Using my existing block and head. I guess this is just about the pistons? Obviously new bearings, ARP bolts, pumps. What about ARP rods? Seems like a good idea, expensive though.

Some advice from another board - "81-81.25mm p30 piston from the JDM b16 SiR II (only!!), or to use the 81.5mm-82mm RS Machine Pr3 piston with hastings rings. OEM p30 will offer highest compression, while the RSM will offer more displacement and offer a slight increase in compression vs. OEM pr3 pistons. either option will require ACL/oem bearings, ARP rod bolts, and new oil/water pumps"

 

Please comment on the following items I've found so far:

1. Ebay, currently $250 shipped - Eagle h beam rods, Eagle light weight crank, and srp 81mm 11.5:1 pistons with je piston rings, arp 2000 rod bolts. crank and rods are ls stroke but used in a gsr. compatible with all ls/gsr/type r/si. everything has about 1000 miles on it. main bearing spun in motor so the crank needs a regrind or a micro polish

2. $400 - Wiseco pistons BNIB...81mm 11.5:1cr - Brand new in the box pistons. They are 81mm and yield 11.5:1cr in a b18c motor, but will fit other B series motors....I will also include a set of King bearings...Price is $400 shipped...

3. CP Piston set Brand new in box 84.5mm 13:1 compression - Still in box with ring sets and wrist pins in plastic wrap. $375 /obo

4. OEM P30 Pistons + Rings - Brand New In The Box - $225 shipped

5. Pr3 std pistons on pr4 ls rods w/ ARP hardware. Missing 2 nuts&bolts 81mm bore $150

6. JE/SRP 12.5:1 Pistons 81.5mm on p72 rods. $300

7. JE/SRP 10.5:1 pistons.81.5mm w/ rings $300

8. 89mm crank micropolished $150

9. NEW CTR pistons .25 OS on NEW pr3 rods $325

10. Ebay, currently $61 - NIB SRP Pistons. Standard 81.00mm bore and include rings, wrist pins, locks, and of course the pistons. They will yield roughly a 12.0:1 compression ratio in a GSR or LS/Vtec....depending on the head combination used.

11. NEW SRP 81.5mm 8.5:1CR w/ pins & w/ JE Pro Seal Rings $300

 

what about p73 pistons?

 

whoa, no one has responded yet you still post.

first, why no tranny swap? if anything that should be done first before all the modifications (after the rebuild of course).

i'll respond more later. i'm at the end of my shift at work. time to go home!

 

Not doing a tranny swap. I want this to be quick and painless. That includes using my own block and my own tranny. I will be putting a new surface on my lightened flywheel from clutchmasters and putting in a new stage 1 clutch.

still looking for piston advice

 

my point is there much acceleration to be gained from getting a tranny swap..

i used to be an LS owner, and going to a GSR tranny seemed more worthwhile than basic bolt ons. i later ended up going turbo, but thats besides the point.

piston advice - go with what you said.