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Old 02-09-2007 | 07:19 AM
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Ive looked around for the torque specs for an exhaust manifold on a b18c1 motor. Im talkin about the 7 header to head bolts and the 2 outside nuts. the torque specs for the outside 2 nuts is 23ft-lb. For the header to head bolts is said to be 22ft-lb. when I got here they all felt somewhat loose. Whats a "realistic spec" to follow. I know 23 on the header to head bolts was not enough to I went to 30. any thoughts? its fine with no leaks. should i leave it or back it up. I also had an extension on the wrench. does this matter?

there DC's case that makes a difference

Last edited by TheOtherDave™; 02-09-2007 at 12:38 PM.
Old 02-09-2007 | 12:37 PM
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:wavey: Got your PM; I'm reposting the answer for the general public here as well.

Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™
Originally Posted by Topend
hey theotherdave, got a question thats seriously bugging me. Ive posted a thread on it but was reading around you sound like a reputable person to ask.
I installed my dc 4-1 header. When it came time to torque the 7 bolts and 2 nut on the flange to head part, the manuals Chilton and haynes only gave me torque specs to the outside 2 nuts. it said 23 so i put them around there. the 7 others though didn't have specs so i tightened them to a realistic spec judging off the tightness of the other nuts. I came up with 30ft-lb that looked and felt right (not to tight) do you remember what you tightend the 7 header to head bolts to? thanks
First, dump your chiltons manual in the nearest trashbin and order the factory service manual from HELMS. From my experience, the Haynes / Chiltons manuals are absolute crap.

And from the Helms manual, the correct torque spec is 23 lb ft for all the nuts. Work in a criss-cross pattern (top-to-bottom) from the middle pair of nuts outward. The locking nuts at the ends are the very last ones to go on.

Since you've overtorqued the inner nuts, there's a possibiliy that you've crimped the header gasket. If that's the case, go ahead and replace it. Better to spend a few extra bucks rather than have a nasty (and noisy) leak develop a couple hundred miles later.

:cheers:
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Old 02-09-2007 | 12:52 PM
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At least download the manual until you can buy it, easy to search for whatever you need:

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Old 02-09-2007 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jesusublime99
At least download the manual until you can buy it, easy to search for whatever you need:

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Permit me to give a brief speech... h:

Nut up, do the right thing and buy the FSM. :nono:

Personally, I take issue with the downloading of these manuals because:
1) It's a niche market already.
2) There are relatively few players who offer reprints to the public.

The FSM is worth what they charge and I don't want to see their prices go up because more people steal.

Thanks for listening...er... reading. :run:
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Old 02-09-2007 | 03:06 PM
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I never perceived it that way, point taken. :wtcslap:
Old 02-09-2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jesusublime99
I never perceived it that way, point taken. :wtcslap:
No need to chastise yourself. :hsd:
I was just tossing in my 2˘. h:

Trying to stop the flood of illicit downloading is like trying to bail out the ocean with a teaspoon.
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