sorry i wasn't clear on the temp guage, it shows the car warming up to operating temp and goes around the same spot on the temp guage every time since i got the car 2.5 years ago...

 

so the car continues to drive fine and i haven't had the pulsing idle come back, but it's still idling about 1200rpm and what little research i have found if it were IACV that's messed up isn't the engine supposed to die or at least begin to stall? when i check it for working order(hayne's manual way they say to check it)btw joe my coolant is right on the line....

 

mine was doing that today... but I had a hole in my rad and it was overheating so yea...

 

woohoo so i'm bringing up my old post b/c the car is acting up again and i'm putting some time into it on wed when i'm off work. I have no clue if it's throwing any extra codes yet cuz the code reader wasn't at our shop today. I'm basically planning to start with IACV and EGR valve any other suggestions...i'm also gonna replace plugs and wires cuz cap and rotor weren't too long ago.

It pulses real bad sometimes when it sits and idles for a while, but it still pulses a bit every time i push the clutch in. Also side note: did a compression test b4 i left work 125 125 125 110 give me feedback on this as well plz i know piston rings are to blame but where should it be is my question...

 

Integra's don't have an EGR valve. I'd start with cleaning the IACV as your planning, new plugs & wires would help. Double check your ignition timing too. You also might bleed your coolant system, the ECT has a direct effect on ignition timing. If an air pocket exists near the ECT Sensor or IACV, an erratic idle will result. but don't rule out the possibility of a vacuum leak. Spray some TB cleaner around the Throttle Body and Intake Manifold, and look for bubbles.

 

After looking at my HELM's --

Compression on a new B18C1 is 135 p.s.i.
A maximum variation of 28 p.s.i. between cylinders is the service limit.

So your numbers are well within tolerance.

 

If it were 135 psi, it probably wouldn't run. A B18C1 should see about ~200-220 psi and a B18B should see ~180-200 psi.

I would look it up in my service manual, but it is packed away.

 

Sorry, it lists standard as 270 p.s.i. and minimum at 130 p.s.i.

 

yeah i spent last nite digging my manual out... i knew those compression numbers were low i just couldn't remember how low. i knew something was up when i couldn't locate an egr system as well, but that explains it lol well i guess wed i'm just gonna clean the IACV and flush the cooling system and check for any other codes being thrown. Also go ahead with plugs and wires... i've heard there's no reason to upgrade wires(i'm only planning at most 400hp at the end) correct?

 

Don't "upgrade" the wires, just replace with OEM if necessary. Honda ignition components are good well above 400 whp. With compression like that, I wouldn't push your motor any higher than stock hp until the problem is fixed.

You can try another compression check, squirt a small amount of oil into each cylinder before you crank the starter and see if the numbers improve. If they do, chances are that you are having piston ring failure.

If your serious about your goal, this might be a good time to get some forged pistons & rods, and whatever else you need for your planned setup.