Help with PowerSlot Rotors!!!
#22
Okay, so here's something new to add to it.
I drove, literally, 2 blocks. From dead cold rotors this morning, 2 blocks and 1 stop light down the road, and the rotors are too hot to even touch with the tip of your finger.
My friends stock rotors... he drove 21 miles here (in traffic part of the way) and you can rest your face on the damn things.
Kind of ridiculous..
Felt great this morning when I got in the car and they were freezing cold; and then by the time I got to work (1 mile later, 2 blocks or so) they were squishy as hell.
Feels like massive brake fade.
I drove, literally, 2 blocks. From dead cold rotors this morning, 2 blocks and 1 stop light down the road, and the rotors are too hot to even touch with the tip of your finger.
My friends stock rotors... he drove 21 miles here (in traffic part of the way) and you can rest your face on the damn things.
Kind of ridiculous..
Felt great this morning when I got in the car and they were freezing cold; and then by the time I got to work (1 mile later, 2 blocks or so) they were squishy as hell.
Feels like massive brake fade.
#24
I don't know. I talked to them this morning and they think that when they manually bled the lines, the pedal got pushed a little bit and put the "rod inside the cylinder" off alignment. So that the pedal has slack up top, doesnt get full braking by the time it hits the bottom and it moves the calipers towards the rotor (causing it to get super hot cause its always wearing).
So, it goes back in tomorrow.
My tires get here thursday, woo ho!
So, it goes back in tomorrow.
My tires get here thursday, woo ho!
#25
Originally posted by ForceFedGSR
You either have air in your brake lines and they need to be bled or your master cylinder is faulty and needs to be replaced. Nothing else to it, its one or the other.
You either have air in your brake lines and they need to be bled or your master cylinder is faulty and needs to be replaced. Nothing else to it, its one or the other.
i put in oem pads in and brembo cross drilled slotted in... took me like 2 hours though. Any know why people don't like Brembo cross-drilled slotted??, they seem to work fine for me.
Next time get a helms manual and do everything yurself, save money and know that yur getting it done right.
#26
Definitely do your own work, especially on something simple as a rotor/pad change. Its amazing how a "professional" shop can fukk up something as elementary as brake pads or even an oil change in my case. I would just pull it all off and start from scratch. Grab a helms if you dont have one already and just go to work. If it still sucks after youve reinstalled everything and bled the lines then i would dive into the master cylinder the cost of the part is not so great but you'll save alot on labor(very simple install). If you need any help doing the pads/rotors or Master cyl feel free to email me. I have a helms if you dont. Good luck.
Ryan
Ryan
#27
Originally posted by antarius
I don't know. I talked to them this morning and they think that when they manually bled the lines, the pedal got pushed a little bit and put the "rod inside the cylinder" off alignment. So that the pedal has slack up top, doesnt get full braking by the time it hits the bottom and it moves the calipers towards the rotor (causing it to get super hot cause its always wearing).
I don't know. I talked to them this morning and they think that when they manually bled the lines, the pedal got pushed a little bit and put the "rod inside the cylinder" off alignment. So that the pedal has slack up top, doesnt get full braking by the time it hits the bottom and it moves the calipers towards the rotor (causing it to get super hot cause its always wearing).
#28
It does kind of sound like a load of crap. But I literally drove it down 1/8th of a mile, turned around, and parked, and the rotor was hot to the touch, again.
The fronts were, the rears were barely warm.
So it's definatly rubbing too much. We'll see how it turns out after tomorrow. In the end i may have them refund my money, give me my oem ****, and do it myself with my own parts on a different day.
What tools do I need to get the studs out?
The fronts were, the rears were barely warm.
So it's definatly rubbing too much. We'll see how it turns out after tomorrow. In the end i may have them refund my money, give me my oem ****, and do it myself with my own parts on a different day.
What tools do I need to get the studs out?