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difference between JDM itr and USDM

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Old 10-16-2006 | 11:25 AM
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Default difference between JDM itr and USDM

i am planning on getting a type r motor. i have found a really good deal on a USDM ITR motor with about 50k. i know the compression ratios are a little lower, and the final drive is a 4.4. but with the same compression, which transmission would allow for better top end. i want the thing to be able to pull on the highway. Will the 4.79 transmission effect that in a negative way?
Old 10-16-2006 | 12:21 PM
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waste of money.

a long story short:
the integra type-r was an amazing vehicle, what you are paying for is the name of the car it came from. people think that the only thing the type-r had over the gs-r was the engine and thats where problems come up. the engine is actually not as good as the GS-R engine, in stock form it is more powerful, but once you start modifying it the the type-r shows it's flaws.

honda choose to use a less advanced head than they used in the GS-R, this is the reason it is ported-- because it wasnt enough in it's stock form-- they only reason they used it was that they had too many of the heads left for the b16, but they didnt have enough for a full production line-- their solution was to use it in the ITR.

the head casting number is pr3, it features overly large combustion chambers and a lower rate of flow when compared to the GS-R's P72 head design.

when selecting a motor for a build it would make sense to go witht he GS-R engine, as the head is the best avalible, and the blocks are pretty much the same thing. in fact, if you are planing on upgrading any of the rotating assembly the type-r would be the completely wrong decision, seeing as the only major thing it has over the GSR is the piston dome height and resulting extra compression. It has a more agressive head assembly, but the cams and even the more agressive gearing is nothing to shout about once you come to building.

overall the best idea is to go with a GS-R engine. the b18c1 here in the states but also classified as a b18c block with a p72 head-- with the extra cash you save you can upgrade some stuff, and you'll end up with a better engine than before.

because you are asking this question in the first place i don't expect you to understand any of this, but that doesnt really matter, all that matters now is that you know that the type-r engine is a waste of money.

if you want more, search
Old 10-16-2006 | 12:53 PM
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^ nice piece of history there that i wasn't aware of. I've been thinking about doing a motor swap for awhile now and ill my friends tell me to do a c5 swap but for the money i can buy a nice set of cams and do some head work and have just as much if not more power than your stock ITR motor and save myself some money too!
Old 10-16-2006 | 01:39 PM
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out of the box my type-r motor was great, along with the tranny. but yes Ive encountered problems now while still trying to stick to N/A Ive noticed that it will cost a lot of $$$ just to get 20hp out of that bitch, better just buy an gsr motor and turbo it, type-r is fun in stock form, and even better with some cams, but after that theres lil you can do to increase hp. unless you have deep pockets.
Old 10-16-2006 | 02:22 PM
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ugh, don't steer him down the FI road pleeeaase! :chuckles: NA is best IMO
Old 10-16-2006 | 02:36 PM
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NA is IMO best in stock form. If your plans are to never mod anything on the car, and wish to maintain OEM reliability then an ITR motor is great. They are just incredibly over-priced & over hyped. And one thing to keep in mind is that if you are getting a "good price" then chances are it has alot more miles than your being told. Or other problems. For the $5500 a good b18c5 will cost, you could just find a GSR head, do LS-Vtec & use components of your choice. Either N/A or FI. Obviously your goal is to get more power, and $5500 for a 195HP engine is the worst for your dollar.
Old 10-16-2006 | 02:45 PM
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NA you will most likely max out on 93 with something in the 130/L range, without removing the rotating assembly expect gains of maybe 10 max, i mean even with cams the wristpins most likely wont hold into the high rpms needed to make the power.

personally out of need i'd go FI on a gsr engine, but either way NA or FI the GSR engine just makes more sense. like i said, once you even think about upgrading the internals, you've hit a point where you're throwing out exactly what you paid extra for.

it's like getting a cheeseburger that costs 50¢ extra over a hamburger to scrape the cheese off when you get it.
Old 10-16-2006 | 05:33 PM
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[quote=sherwood;3183748]
personally out of need i'd go FI on a gsr engine, but either way NA or FI the GSR engine just makes more sense. like i said, once you even think about upgrading the internals, you've hit a point where you're throwing out exactly what you paid extra for.[quote]

:werd:

Read this, and remember it...
I was talking about his LS motor. He could just build that with a GSR head, new forged internals & a custom turbo setup for the cost of the ITR engine.

To answer the original question, here's a link with specs to all b series motors.
http://www.hybridgarage.com/tech/bseries.html
Old 10-16-2006 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001TEGGSR
I was talking about his LS motor.
from his aim name i'm guessing he has a black EF9... not a teg, so he has no b18
Old 10-16-2006 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sherwood
from his aim name i'm guessing he has a black EF9... not a teg, so he has no b18
His HAN name says "teg"

Oh well, no point in debating when we don't have enough info. Everything you said was good info -- I wasn't trying to invoke conflict.



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