personally out of need i'd go FI on a gsr engine, but either way NA or FI the GSR engine just makes more sense. like i said, once you even think about upgrading the internals, you've hit a point where you're throwing out exactly what you paid extra for.

what is na and what is fi and what is the diff

 

Naturally aspirated/forced injection

 

corrected.
NA is basically just not forced induction--

FI is forcing more air into the engine, causing an increase in effective compression ratio and power.

the ways of doing this are turbocharging or supercharging, though the preferred method for our b-series is turbocharging do to it's more effcient use and gain--

 

haha i didn't mean to turn this into an NA vs FI Thread, h: i was just simply stating i would have gone with a gsr with some cams over ITR motor

 

they way i see it is if you want a beefy set-tp with little or no mods and still have fun at the track go with the Type-R Motor. if you looking to pass the 300hp level and have some fun go with the GSR Motor. either way there both great motors. just with different capabilities.

 

i completely understand that a itr isnt the best motor to tear apart. im not gonna tear it apart. that should have been obvious. if i was gonna tear it all apart and put it back together i would have gotten a gsr like my last engine swap. i just wanted to know what the gearing was going to do as far as driving on the highway. im not pullin the fuckin thing apart and rebuilding it. thats why im going with the better engine.
well Noyan Engines in Manassass VA sells them for $4400 with tranny. thats without shipping or tax. so i'll be getting it for about $900 less then what u said there.
i had a gsr swap in my EF. i sold it. it was slow and i started to realize that in order for me to build the thing i was gonna spend a lot of money. so i sold the motor and transmission, and i was gonna get a itr for an extra $1400. that is the difference in price. $1400 is the difference in price where i buy it.
i'll tell u what im looking for. i want 12's with street legal drag radials in a 94 EX coupe that weighs 2200lbs before the swap. with a stock d16z6. the way i figured it was doing the swap, I've seen 13.5 with just the swap in a car with that weight. then doing a Mugen head gasket to get the compression a little higher, then some Buddy Clup SpecIII cams, and then ITBs. and of coarse, a traction bar and nice set of Nitto Drag Radials.

EDIT: i also want to be able to drive the car 300 miles in a weekend if needed. i wont do that, but i want to be able to do it if i need it.

 

that all sounds good and all man but 12's will require a lot of $$$. sorry for asking, are you trying to reach the 12second mark while using the B18C5 or the B18C1. I have a problem myself on deciding wheter or not to stick to N/A or to turbo it. they way i see it i can spend $4000 to get 100whp using 5-6psi. or spend a lil less on a Manifold,Fuel Rail,Bigger injectors, Ported TB,Cam Gears, and go tune it to get around 15-25hp. personally i would like to stick N/A but it just costs so much more.

 

i dont have a gsr anymore. i sold it. all i have now is a choice between a JDM ITR and JDM GSR. the USDM ITR motor was sold. im really not trying to spend $2000 on a long block that im just gonna tear completely apart to changeout the pistons. i can get a usdm type r transmission for around $1360 which will bring my total to $3360 which is still $13-- less then the itr but without the power i want. I could change the pistons for that money to some CTR pistons and use my mugen head gasket and get about 12.3:1 compression. and i could use my omni power valve train to get some nicer cams. but then im going to spend the difference in rebuilding the block that i just paid $2000 for.

 

lil hard to understand what your are saying, so are you just going to get the GSR motor then, and will you turbo it or stick to N/A

 

i dont have a gsr anymore. i sold my gsr. i have to make a choice between a JDM ITR and JDM GSR. im really not trying to spend $2000 on a GSR long block and then just tear it completely apart to changeout the pistons. i can get a usdm type r transmission for around $1360 which will bring my total to $3360 (for a jdm gsr long block with usdm itr transmission) which is still $13-- less then the itr. But i wont have the power i want. If i got a GSR I would have to change the pistons to some CTR pistons and use my mugen head gasket and get about 12.3:1 compression. and i could use my omni power valve train to get some nicer cams. but by the time i spend all that, i could have just gotten an ITR motor. a GSR long block costs $2000. i do not want to buy a GSR block for $2000 and then rip it apart. It doesnt seem like it makes sense.