Well it looks as though forced induction is just a little more than a vtec conversion, and seems less risky, and more reliable. The only thing is that I've heard a couple different things about it. One is that you shouldn't run it on stock internals (which I would be doing, since I'd be broke after the turbo) and another thing I heard is that it's ok if you don't go over 6 or 7 pounds. Would FI even be worth it with only 6 or 7 pounds? Would getting low compression pistons be enough to run 8 to 10 pounds safely? Are there other factors involved? Just to let you guys know, I've learned more about cars in the past few days than in my entire life, just looking at what you guys are saying and then reading up about it online. I'm in the middle of reading how engines work, on how stuff works.com. Speaking of that, while I was reading it I thought of this, Since in the higher RPMs the b18 series can't breath, If you just change the heads, and air intake and exhaust, wouldn't that give you more air and breathing room and make everything work better without doing a full vtec conversion? Just a thought I had, remember, I don't know shit so be easy with my theory. (I'm used to AR-15.com and those dudes are dicks)

 

i would suggest garrett, they ahve a wide selection as far as what size turbo you want and application you want to do.......

 

slow down turbo lol.... it seems like your just getting into it... thats a very good thing, glad to see a noob doing their research. but take your time.... do one thing at a time. at the moment, you can do just about w/e you want.

assume
-$1000 for a good full-suspension setup when all is said and done (w/o install)
-$2500 for a safe LS/Vtec conversion (w/o install)
-$2000-6000 for a turbo setup (depends on level/build quality) (w/o install)

yes.... putting on things like a new intake/header/exhaust will greatly help your engine breathe better and increase the overall efficiency. but the thing about that is.... if you are to do a turbo setup... you will lose your intake/header... so thats almost $500 down the drain. decide what you want to do first... then go from there... start doing research on it. LS/V has been covered several times (by me more than a few times). Turbos have been covered so many times that we should make a new section just for it. All sorts of suspension components are constantly being mentioned. and as far as your manual conversion... i know it's been brought up several times, and few times even full write ups were written in posts.

highly suggested you search around the forums for your information.... even in the past month... we've discussed just about everything you need to know at some point

 

hey im gonna be doing another VTEC swap. But this time i wanna do it right. I hear alot about squirters and stuff. But im going to a GSR head on the LS block (never woulda guessed i bet), well my question is the oil lines that I need to add (from what Ive heard) where do they run from and too? Also if i add a part that needs oil wouldnt inturn make my pump work harder and/or my engine need a tad bit more oil? I might need to add this, but im going turbo and building the head up solid! The last head i burnt the valve guides and started puffin alot of black smoke. Im a complete engine rebuild now but am swapping the head! I may be thinkin way to into it but I dont wanna make another mistake! Thx for the help

 

if you plan on making that reliable you will need to rip apart the bottom end, sure you can make it last with the stock LS bottom end, but it's not worth jack unless it can get up in the rev range, the stock rotating assembly just doesnt allow for the heightend ammount of stress cause by lofty RPM's

 

So since im going turbo, im guessing forged pistons and better rods as well. Would I be able to keep same crank? Also maybe you can help me with this. Im trying to decide on a set of cams. Im not sure what lift, duration, and lobe seperation to get? Id think along with a bigger exhaust valve id need to change them 3 things with the came.

Before I do all this head stuff, Ive heard alot about running VTEC and a turbo setup not being so great. Any opinions?

Thnx for the help!

 

Alright, it's time to debunk the BS and clear up the fine points...

1) SEARCH.
For the love of GOD, use our search engine.. and skim through the Integra FAQ for the basics. Turbocharging, LS-VTEC conversions, suspension options.. all of these have been covered before.

2) LS-VTEC and its mortal weakness:
The build-up from G2IC.com did not address the bottom end. IMO, that weakness must be addressed for the motor to be considered reliable to any degree.
The specific weak points on an LS-VTEC motor are the rod bolts and to a lesser extent, the rods themselves. An affordable solution for an N/A motor is to have your LS rods shot-peened, then reinstall them with ARP hardware in the stock diameter and thread pitch. That will give you sufficient bottom-end strength to run to 7800 rpm with a little safety margin on top. Being conservative, I would not go beyond 8K, simply because I prioritize durablity.

3) Re: LS-VTEC + Turbocharging.
Considering that a LS-VTEC motor will belch out about 190 hp with plenty of torque, that should be plenty for the $2500 or so it will cost.
(I'm assuming you'll be paying for shop time to dissassemble and reassemble the motor.) In fact, if CA smog wasn't such a bitch, I would be perfectly happy with a naturally aspirated LS-VTEC and an iTR transmssion.

But...if you're serious about turbocharging an LS-VTEC, I would skip the shotpeened LS rods and go directly to a set of aftermarket forged pistons and rods. Shoot for a compression ratio of about 9.8:1 unless you can get 93 octane or higher on a daily basis. The reason for upgrading to aftermarket rods & pistons is two fold..

a) The forged pistons will be more resistant to temporary bouts of detonation. (detonation should still be avoided, obviously)

b) The forged rods will be stronger still than the shotpeened LS rods and will further increase your "safety margin" in high-rpm use. Again, the ARP rod bolts are crucial for reliability.

And yes, so long as B18B1 (or A1, depending on which engine you have) rods are ordered, they will fit the stock crank.

Next... :run:

 

:cheers: 94 rs crew

 

Would my stock transmission be able to handle 190 HP?

 

Yes. The load won't be a problem at all, assuming the transmission shifts smoothly and hasn't been abused at this point.

However, if you go to the Integra FAQ, you will notice that the GSR and Integra Type R (aka ITR) transmissions have tighter gear ratios with a numerically higher final drive. The higher final drive ratio will exploit the strong mid-range and top end power of the motor and produce faster acceleration times.

If you go ahead with an LS-VTEC motor, you will get the most benefit out of a GSR or ITR transmission. And yes, even if you decide to turbocharge your LS-VTEC, the GSR / ITR trans is still a worthwhile upgrade.