What engine do I have? do I have the b18, so I could just add those parts?

 

Welcome to the forumrooftop voter.

g290ls I have a few questions about the ls vtec:
How much would it cost to have someone do it or what are the steps to vtec an ls?
Also, how would you turbo a ls vtec? or should you just swap in a vtec and turbo that?

 

yeah you could just add those parts....

nova: what up

LS/VTEC Conversion.
For the LS/VTEC you'll need the following:
1. b16a/b18c/b17 head, cams, head bolts, cam seals, and ECU.
Most people get the b16 head 'cause it's way cheaper and easier to find. the gsr combustion chamber is smaller yielding a higher CR and more hp (slightly). The best reason to use the b16a head is you can use Integra typeR (ITR) intake manifold with it, shown in figure1. As you can see, the TypeR manifold has much shorter/fatter runners than that of the b18a (1993 shown).


2. If you get a b16 head, you need a b16 intake manifold. Same goes for the other: you'll need the respective intake manifolds.
3. You'll also need a 92+ b16a fuel rail or 92+ Integra one if you use the ITR manifold.
4. You can use your (teg) distributor but you have to chop off one of the legs to make it fit (the one that gets in the way of the VTEC solenoid.).
5. You need to tap and seal an oil-line on the back distributor side of the head (shown below) and bore out two of the dowel pin holes on your new head. The dowel pins on the b18a/b are in the Back but the ones on the VTEC heads are on the Front so you need to enlarge the ones on the back of the head to 14mm to match your block (shown as #1 and #4 on the pic below).

6. You'll have to get a steel braided oil line, fittings, and a T joint to run the oil from the block (oil press. sender hole) to the VTEC Solenoid.
7. You need a B18a/b head gasket and an intake manifold gasket that corresponds to your manifold. not to mention a VTEC valve cover and VTEC sparkplug wires.
8. You can use your b18a/bTB, but a gsr/ITR one is recommended due to their superior flow characteristics.
9. Also, your upper radiator hose will be about 2" too short. You'll need to get a universal hose from pep boys ($10).
10. Since the most common b16a heads come from 89-91 b16a's, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting better/new Valve springs because after a decade or so they become soft and this can happen:

You should expect to pay the following:
b16a head: $300-350 USED
head bolts(10) $60 NEW
intake man $250 NEW
cams around $250 each NEW
Ecu $300
head gasket: $50 NEW
fuel rail $50 used
wires: $70
spark plugs: $10
valve cover $180 NEW or $50 USED
cam seals $15
steal braided oil line: $20-50
fittings: $10
I think that's it. this comes to $1300-1700 depending on what kinda deals you get. Expect not to rev more than 8K* without problems and 185-195hp. If you get b16a2 pistons, properly tuned you should have about 190-200 hp to the flywheel. This is more than enough to take out your local G3 GS-R! That's all I can think of.
*Disclaimer: REV AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Although, if built properly, this can be a very reliable and powerful setup, you can serious jack-up your motor if you don't take the proper precautions. Examples of this would be assuming that 10yr old springs or rod bolts are as strong as new.

 

as far as turbo? you have to get a turbo exhaust manifold that would replace your stock mani or aftermarket header, and you would need all the piping plus the intercooler to do so, and not mention the turbocharger that you want to use would also have to fit the mani and depending how and where you want it to boost at, plus all the gauges that you would to keep close tabs on your setup there is a lot more to it then what i stated trust me one of the members here could probably answer that question a lot better then me but welcome to han!!!!!

 

there seems to be a lot of confusion and frankly a little bit of bullshit in this thread. to the OP... do your research.. everything you could want is out there.

to answer your question of the kind of gains you would get with basic bolt ons... maybe 10hp... and that's even pushing it. the chip will do nothing, hondas/domestics don't work the same in that aspect. you would need a better tuning source. to be honest... with what your doing.... you don't need to tune at all, so the chip is meaningless.... organize your questions and i can answer them better... and you may even get a better response than a couple of g2 noobs

 

I'm really not sure how to ask the questions because I'm a noob at all this. If I were to do this conversion I would pay a pro to do it just so I don't jack anything up. Kinda sucks that I won't really see much of a power differance with just bolt on mods. 10 hp doesn't really sound all that great for the amount of money I would have to dump into it. 30-40 would have been worth it though, but if I understand correctly I'm not looking at that with what I'd do. When I read about the lightend fly wheel it said it would yield gains of 20-30 HP, but I suppose you guys who have actually done it know better. Would I only gain from the bolt on mods if I did the LS vtec conversion? If I am understanding correctly, I have to do that before anything else is worth doing, correct?

 

the reason you are S.O.L. is because you bought an auto.

to gain anything you would notice you would need to go FI or some sort of nitrous system

a vtec conversion is possible but it is generally only for those who have the time to spend on it.

a engine swap on the other hand is quite easy and will net you major gains and gain you a manual transmission.

as far as modding goes my personal choice with your car would be to save the money for general matinence and then upgrade the suspension. the car is 13 years old and you most likely will need new shocks, though a set of new coil-overs would be nice.

 

thanks for the help. I was wondering more on what type of turbo I should get if I do a ls vtec. Would I buy a GSR direct bolt on or an LS direct bolt on or call the company and have one modified for it? I would run it as a street turbo with low boost. Just an add on for the look I guess.

 

The shocks seem good to me, and I do have a manual transmission. Am I still out of luck? The thing is I'm no mechanic, at least not yet, so I would pay someone to either do the LS conversion, or I would pay someone to do the engine swap, and I'm trying to do not what's easiest on my part, but what is more cost effective. What does upgrades to the suspension do? What kind of upgrades are there?

 

an upgraded suspension will help with the handling characteristics of the car, alowing it to have higher turn speeds with less body roll and other undesierables.

the one downside is if your suspension is too agressive it will start to kill ride quality.

the reason i thought you had an auto is because you accidentally misspelled acura---

in this case i would suggest to you to look at FI. a VTEC head conversion can be extremely costly and there are alot more tuners around who know how to deal with FI vs. a vtec conversion, at least correctly.

to do a proper VTEC conversion there are neumerous things in the bottom end that must be replaced, most noticibly, the rod bolts. this is not a replacement for beginners.

if you do choose to go the VTEC conversion route though, be sure to get yourself a GS-R P72 head. do not buy into the hype of the Type-R PR3.