Don't have to have your block bored over just to get those kind of numbers on a sleeved block...you may be able to use like...82 or lower, even...

Go for CP pistons; Rods--Manley, or Crower--I recomend Manley--If you want to get the best, Carillo rods...( start at $1000 ) Manley or crower will fit your connecting rod needs just fine...and CP pistons...

PS-good luck finding Manley rods--If you find some, let me know!!! Mine are still on backorder...

Anyone use crower rods here? can't find a product review anywhere...my builder and my tuner use manley rods...

 

Crower makes good rods, especially their high end rods. Importbuilders sells great rods too. Wiseco pistons are in the opinion of many, the best on the market...and I agree. As far as cylinder bore, 86mm is way too big...I'd go 84mm max. The extra 2mm isn't worth risking the integrity of the sleeve. What size turbo are you currently running? Importbuilders does great work, I recommend them.

 

Had heard that Weisco were reworked JE pistons--Did I hear wrong?

 

You heard absolutely wrong. Wiseco has their own forging plant, and make all of their own stuff. Read this: http://www.importbuilders.com/backup...oncomparo.html

 

If i was you i would stay away form the GE sleves, the tuning place donw here said they are not that good. Stick with Darton or AEBS. I would go with Weisco pistons and ross rods, i do belive that is what WCS ran. With bearings stick with OEM, no need to ACL, they are softer and if u are DD the car u will wear them out. Make sure u get the bottom end balanced. Cheap insurence.


Hey WCS is o ringing the block needed for higher boost levels? Another note if u are gonna to run ur car a drag comp, like NOPI or NHRA the dart block is snot legal.

 

Ok, here's what I did and you can take my experience or leave it:

I went with a T-sleeved block from AEBS bored to 84mm (1.9something Liters). AEBS claims that their sleeves are tested and proven up to 55psi and I don't doubt it. I wanted to have it o-ringed, but they forgot to do it and I'm kinda glad they did. There are two kinds of o-ring setups you can use:
1) the o-rings are made from steel and you use a copper head gasket that form fits around the o-rings creating the seal. This method I do not recommend as I'm not sure how difficult it is to find a proper copper head gasket for our motors, especially being overbored. Additionally, you'd have to have the head machined as well to accept the steel o-ring as it's not meant to crush.
2) The o-rings are copper and you use a standard head gasket. In this method the o-rings actually crush creating your seal.

I pushed 23+ psi with my setup and really was limited by the turbo and exhaust manifold so I didn't see much of a need for o-ringing it.

I used Pauter rods, which are proven to 1000+ whp and ROSS custom made, 9.5:1 compression pistons, also proven to 1000+ whp. I used ROSS piston rings as well. I highly recommend these components. The rods are American steel, like Crower, but have an I-beam design. You can see pics here: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=142746

I used ACL main & rod bearings, and ACL thrust washers. I got them from camp something on H-T. Camp 159 or something. Good guys, great pricing.

I also used AEBS main and head studs. I previously used ARP, but I liked that AEBS' have allen-head tops on them so you can torque them much easier than the ARP's. I used an 85mm Cometic HG first, and then went to the correct 84mm. I don't think there's much of a difference as long as you don't go less than your bore, but I wanted it to be absolutely right.

I had the entire rotating assembly - clutch, crank, pistons/rods, crank pulley - balanced to 10k RPMs to ensure that there wouldn't be any unwanted vibrations.

I upgraded the valvetrain to the following: Rocket Motorsports Gen1 valve springs, Supertech titanium retainers, AEM 5-bolt cam gears, and OEM JDM ITR cams. Pics here: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=188670

I got 9whp on the dyno just from adjusting the intake cam.

That's the quick and dirty explanation of the upgrades I did. I stuck with the OEM GSR crank, but almost everything else was new. Search around for my posts to see the progression. In the end, I was able to push 457whp and 373wtq out of the thing on 91 octane pump gas at about 23psi. As I said earlier, it was really my turbo and exhaust mani that held me back. I have no doubt that I could have been in the 600 whp range with that setup had I installed larger injectors, a larger turbo, FullRace/LoveFab manifold, better intake manifold, and a few transmission upgrades (LSD/Axles).

hih

 

What he said...

 

Camp1320?

 

That's the one. I think the owner's name is Tom.