Here is a tip. If you refer to Helms manual, they say to turn the adjusting screw until "slight drag is felt." Well, to some that is a little vague. So what you want to do is, adjust until you feel a little resistance when your trying to move the feeler gauge. Then go up one step on the feeler gauge and try to insert that one.

For example, say your using a clearance of .007 inches on the intake side and you finish a valve and you want to make sure you got it right. Try to insert a .008 inch. If you can't, you adjusted that valve to the correct spec. Just make sure you can still insert(with a slight drag) the .007 inch after your done.

 

No, the cylinders are in numerical order from right to left. That is not the firing order.

Physical cylinder order: 4-3-2-1

Firing order: 1-3-4-2

So you set cylinder 1 at TDC. The next 90 degree rotation the cam gears make will put cylinder 3 at TDC, then 4, then 2.



That shows the position the cam gears should be in for each cylinder.

 

inake is .006-.007
exhaust is .007-.008
so start with the .006 on the intake. how come u say start w/ .007 VPUP?
one thing that is worrying me is the fact they say dont tighten the bolt to tight......WTF what is too tight? last tim ei tried not to go to tight i popped the head off a bolt

 

ah ok . DAMN that would suck f'n up the cylinder order. so they are 4-3-2-1 from left to right but they fire in 1-3-4-2. OK OK i get this. NOW, when i set #1 to TDC i adjust the intake valves on #1 and then exhaust valves on #1.....then go to #3 TDC and do intake then exhaust? does it matter if i do the intake first then exhaust or the exhaust first then intake?
im starting to feel good about this

 

It doesn't matter what order you do the adjustments in, as long as they are for the same cylinder.

Just remember what you are doing if you think you screwed up the firing order. You are checking the gap between the rocker arm and the non-lobed surface of the cam. If you can check to make sure you are checking this gap before you do it, your firing order can't be messed up.

 

Doesn't matter if you do intake or exhaust first...but make absolutely sure you do the cylinders in the correct order. If you have a torque wrench, there is a torque spec for the locknut bolt.

 

Sorry, I only used that spec as a example. You can also choose .006 inch for the intake. Its up to you, but make sure you are using either a .006 or .007 for the intake side.

 

anyone know the torque off hand?

 

On the lock nut, it needs to be torqued to 14 ft.lbs(according to the scanned helms manual on c-speedracing DIY). You need to get a torque wrench if you don't have one.

 

i have a torque wrench but im trying to picture in my head holding the nut while turning the screw and then when im at where i need to be, torquing it down to spec while still holding the screw in place. seems impossible