Test pipe check engine light
12-29-2005 | 10:19 PM
#21
On permanent hiatus
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From: A forum with actual tech
Originally Posted by Iceberg157
As for the envirnoment, it is not that serious when compared to tractors or any fucked up car spitting out smoke. My car does not even give off fumes or anything.
I'm so glad their are people on this Earth that think it is ok to pollute more than they have to in order to gain a few lame horsepower. Thank you for polluting the air I breathe, asshole.
12-30-2005 | 06:30 AM
#22
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Originally Posted by dubcac
Where did I ever say it was the right way, or that I'd do it? Where did I say it wasn't ghetto? You're not getting me here. It works, it's a trick to get around running a chip/o2 sim for a little while to tide him over and get that CEL off. BTW, the REAL way to fix it isn't by running an O2 simulator either.
I really doubt if any gains will be made with the use of a test pipe anyway on such a small displacement engine. It needs some back pressure. I would say that some torque would be lost if anything. Louder is not faster.
If his old cat was bad, than yes... the car would pick up some power.
12-30-2005 | 08:56 AM
#23
I
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,525
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From: Westside til I die
1. It will make some power, but not much more...maybe a couple. The loss of backpressure will cause some low end torque loss, but the gains are all in the higher rpm. The gains between a high flow cat and a test pipe are negligible...the flowrates are very close, and the dynoes are almost identical.
2. You can't program an obd2 car. To run an O2 sim, he'd need an OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness, and a programmed obd1 ECU.
3. The real way to fix it would be have an O2 bung welded in the cat, insert the O2, and reset the ECU. If the O2 code comes on again, get a new sensor, maybe a wideband for some tuning.
2. You can't program an obd2 car. To run an O2 sim, he'd need an OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness, and a programmed obd1 ECU.
3. The real way to fix it would be have an O2 bung welded in the cat, insert the O2, and reset the ECU. If the O2 code comes on again, get a new sensor, maybe a wideband for some tuning.
12-30-2005 | 09:39 AM
#24
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 336
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Originally Posted by dubcac
1. It will make some power, but not much more...maybe a couple. The loss of backpressure will cause some low end torque loss, but the gains are all in the higher rpm. The gains between a high flow cat and a test pipe are negligible...the flowrates are very close, and the dynoes are almost identical.
2. You can't program an obd2 car. To run an O2 sim, he'd need an OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness, and a programmed obd1 ECU.
3. The real way to fix it would be have an O2 bung welded in the cat, insert the O2, and reset the ECU. If the O2 code comes on again, get a new sensor, maybe a wideband for some tuning.
2. You can't program an obd2 car. To run an O2 sim, he'd need an OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness, and a programmed obd1 ECU.
3. The real way to fix it would be have an O2 bung welded in the cat, insert the O2, and reset the ECU. If the O2 code comes on again, get a new sensor, maybe a wideband for some tuning.
No need to change the ECU for an O2 simulator.
06-10-2006 | 02:51 PM
#25
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 101
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From: Leesburg Virginia
Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™
• Ditch the test pipe.
• If your state will let you, run a high-flow cat instead, matched to your header diameter.
• Once an operational catalytic converter has been fitted and both O2 sensors are plugged in and operational, pull the + (positive terminal) battery connector and let the car sit for 10 minutes.
IMPORTANT: If you have an OEM radio installed, be sure you have the Anti-Theft code in hand BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY.
• Once 10 minutes have elapsed, reconnect the battery and go for a drive.
If the Check Engine Light comes back on during your drive, retrieve the code using the directions in our FAQ thread. Then come back to us for assistance.
---
And ignore your friend's advice.
A wideband oxygen sensor would not fix the problem on it's own.
The OBD-II networks expect to see a drastic reduction in post-catalytic converter o^2 content. When both narrow-band sensors report the same level of o^2, the ECU figures that either a) the cat is not performing properly or b) it isn't there at all.
• If your state will let you, run a high-flow cat instead, matched to your header diameter.
• Once an operational catalytic converter has been fitted and both O2 sensors are plugged in and operational, pull the + (positive terminal) battery connector and let the car sit for 10 minutes.
IMPORTANT: If you have an OEM radio installed, be sure you have the Anti-Theft code in hand BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY.
• Once 10 minutes have elapsed, reconnect the battery and go for a drive.
If the Check Engine Light comes back on during your drive, retrieve the code using the directions in our FAQ thread. Then come back to us for assistance.
---
And ignore your friend's advice.
A wideband oxygen sensor would not fix the problem on it's own.
The OBD-II networks expect to see a drastic reduction in post-catalytic converter o^2 content. When both narrow-band sensors report the same level of o^2, the ECU figures that either a) the cat is not performing properly or b) it isn't there at all.
Thanks....
A weld between my resonator and pipe broke last night so I welded it. While reinstalling the pipe, I noticed the inside of the convertor and wondered, "Hmmm, I wonder if I can punch out the inside of the convertor to get better gas mileage?" Then I noticed the sensor at the front and rea r of the convertor and I assumed that the computer would compare the results of the 2 sensors. Thus, punching out the inside of the convertor would not work. So I got online and found your comment that verified my theory.
Thanks once again Dave!!!
Kevin