Oil Pressure gauge
#11
Realize that with a mechanical sensor, you have to run the oil line from the engine INTO THE CAB OF YOUR CAR. You will have oil running directly to the gauge itself. An electrical gauge uses a sending unit (as described above) so that you can mount the unit inside the engine bay and then route the wires to the gauge. The problem with the mechanical gauge is that if you develop a leak, oil will be in your interior and likely in your dash. :nervous:
GL
GL
#12
Originally Posted by Blue Integ
I bought oil pressure gauge from Autometer which is mechanical. do u have any idea i have to buy block to install that senser? or i can just use tube came with gauge then connect to factory senser? if u could tell me more detail about how to install oil pressure gauge, that would be very helpful and appriciated.
Other people will tell you to run a line up from the block and connect everything there, but I have had no problems with the brass fitting coming out of the block.
If you need a diagram, first check out the instructions that came with the gauge. If you still have problems picturing it, I can draw you up a diagram.
I had major leaking issues with the autometer gauge, so hopefully you will have better luck than I did.
#13
Originally Posted by Shmoo
I would get a brass tee at least to retain functionality of the stock idiot light. You will need the all female tee fitting with a double male adapter. Make sure you use plenty of teflon tape and then install the tee fitting with the gauge line coming out the side and the stock sensor going to the other end.
Other people will tell you to run a line up from the block and connect everything there, but I have had no problems with the brass fitting coming out of the block.
If you need a diagram, first check out the instructions that came with the gauge. If you still have problems picturing it, I can draw you up a diagram.
I had major leaking issues with the autometer gauge, so hopefully you will have better luck than I did.
Other people will tell you to run a line up from the block and connect everything there, but I have had no problems with the brass fitting coming out of the block.
If you need a diagram, first check out the instructions that came with the gauge. If you still have problems picturing it, I can draw you up a diagram.
I had major leaking issues with the autometer gauge, so hopefully you will have better luck than I did.
Thanx
#14
Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
You don't have to remove hte filter. If you get the correct deep socket you can remove the oil pressure sending unit easily.
24 mm
i tried hookin mine up and ran into the problem of the autometer fittin that goes into the back of the block not fitting. i could get maybe a 1/4 turn out of it and that was it. i didnt want to force it in since its a brass fittin, so maybe next oil change i'll finally get mine hooked up
#15
i know its an old post, but this must be said...
the thread pitch on the block is a metric thread pitch known as 1/8 BPST. its pretty hard to find, and most people strip out their blocks by threading in the wrong thread.
i got my adapter from www.tunertoys.com.
using too many tee's and what not puts too much weight on the threading in the block and its been well documented that engine vibrations can cause these fitting to break, leading to engine damage/failure.
the thread pitch on the block is a metric thread pitch known as 1/8 BPST. its pretty hard to find, and most people strip out their blocks by threading in the wrong thread.
i got my adapter from www.tunertoys.com.
using too many tee's and what not puts too much weight on the threading in the block and its been well documented that engine vibrations can cause these fitting to break, leading to engine damage/failure.
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DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
#16
I am installing a turbonetics turbo and mine came with a brass t fitting that goes into the block and t's off for the oil feed line and the sending unit that came with my gauge screws in the other end (Electrical Gauge) use plenty of tephlon tape and it will work. If electric run wire from back of sending unit to the s prong on the back of the gauge and power, ground and illuminate of coarse.
#17
Originally Posted by Spec R
using too many tee's and what not puts too much weight on the threading in the block and its been well documented that engine vibrations can cause these fitting to break, leading to engine damage/failure.