Blue Smoke
#14
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Originally Posted by wildcarditr102
I recently bought my ITR from someone who didn't maintain it like an ITR. When I bought it, he reported black smoke so I troubleshooted the fuel system when I got it, after everything it turned out it is blue smoke.
I am thinking piston ring or valve seal. The engine has 126,000 miles and it was never run hard or raced. I would think a honda engine's rings would be good past 126k, or at least that's what I am hoping.
I did two dry compression checks and this is what I found:
Max-270 PSI, Min-135 PSI, Max deviation-28 PSI
Cylinder..........PSI
1...................210
2...................205
3...................215
4...................230
What kind of life can you expect out of the stock ITR rings? The car was said to have been tuned, oiled and kept up regularly, but I don't know for sure.
The previous owner also bought an OBD1 ECU tuned for the ITR of this guy from eBay. I don't know if bad VTEC tuning or anything related to ECU can do this, but let me know.
Would appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jake
ITR 98-0102
I am thinking piston ring or valve seal. The engine has 126,000 miles and it was never run hard or raced. I would think a honda engine's rings would be good past 126k, or at least that's what I am hoping.
I did two dry compression checks and this is what I found:
Max-270 PSI, Min-135 PSI, Max deviation-28 PSI
Cylinder..........PSI
1...................210
2...................205
3...................215
4...................230
What kind of life can you expect out of the stock ITR rings? The car was said to have been tuned, oiled and kept up regularly, but I don't know for sure.
The previous owner also bought an OBD1 ECU tuned for the ITR of this guy from eBay. I don't know if bad VTEC tuning or anything related to ECU can do this, but let me know.
Would appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jake
ITR 98-0102
2nd 14.13 bar
3rd 14.82 bar
4th 15.86 bar
Looks fine to me, mine burns a lot of oil too, found out that the two owner´s before me used crappy oil. Started using quality oil like 100% synt 5W-40 and oil consumption is much lower now. Even so I get a lot of oil on the exhaust.
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Ok, finally got a chance to do the tests. Thanks to everyone's input-this is helping a lot. I did each test (static, running, snap) twice-here's the average...
CYLINDER.....STATIC.....RUNNING.....SNAP
1 .................. 205 .......... 70 ......... 115
2 .................. 200 .......... 70 ......... 120
3 .................. 220 .......... 75 ......... 120
4 .................. 230 .......... 75 ......... 125
The link you gave me said running compression at idle should be from 50-75 PSI and snap should be 80% of cranking compression. The snap didn't check out right, is that because of the high compression?
I will try a wet compression test later this week, how much would that help?
Thanks,
Jake
CYLINDER.....STATIC.....RUNNING.....SNAP
1 .................. 205 .......... 70 ......... 115
2 .................. 200 .......... 70 ......... 120
3 .................. 220 .......... 75 ......... 120
4 .................. 230 .......... 75 ......... 125
The link you gave me said running compression at idle should be from 50-75 PSI and snap should be 80% of cranking compression. The snap didn't check out right, is that because of the high compression?
I will try a wet compression test later this week, how much would that help?
Thanks,
Jake
#17
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IMO you can stop with the compression tests and starting looking other places for your oil burning. Maybe valve seals are gone?!
I know that on older engines you could take the head breather out and see if there was smoke coming out, if there was your valve seals were probably gone.
Also you could check pcv, if your pcv isn´t working correctly you might be having too much oil vapour in your sump and that creates a lot of strain and pressure on the piston rings and they can let some oil go through.
What do you guys think about that?
I know that on older engines you could take the head breather out and see if there was smoke coming out, if there was your valve seals were probably gone.
Also you could check pcv, if your pcv isn´t working correctly you might be having too much oil vapour in your sump and that creates a lot of strain and pressure on the piston rings and they can let some oil go through.
What do you guys think about that?
#18
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valve seals, guides, pcv valve. valve seats. I am doing all this at a machine shop this next week because mine smokes like a crack head. A quart of oil between gas fill ups. (block just got built and is fine, 220 across)
#19
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Thanks for all the input everyone.
For now I am just gonna get it on the road and hopefully one of these weekends this month I will have time to look at it. Until then I have another problem that just popped up...dammit.
Thanks all,
Jake
For now I am just gonna get it on the road and hopefully one of these weekends this month I will have time to look at it. Until then I have another problem that just popped up...dammit.
Thanks all,
Jake
#20
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New problems
I think I found the source of these problems. I threw the old air filter away a while ago-it was LAYERED with dirt. I took the intake off for cleaning and noticed a thick dusty film all the way to the throttle body. Would this be what set this off?
Also, when I disconnected that pipe that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold, a bunch of coolant poured out. Head gasket?
Thanks again,
Jake
Also, when I disconnected that pipe that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold, a bunch of coolant poured out. Head gasket?
Thanks again,
Jake