anybdy have problems removing the crank pully bolt?
#21
ok what kind of gun do you use that uses 90psi? were u just judging that off of the idiot guide on your compressor. try using man's tools. as in the new snap-on/ingersoll rand impact gun. 1000ft/lbs tq. if it wont come off with that, its not coming off, thats how the big boys roll buddy. next time spend a few bucks and get the right equiptment for the job, it pays off trust me.
#22
Originally Posted by mikey16556
ok what kind of gun do you use that uses 90psi? were u just judging that off of the idiot guide on your compressor. try using man's tools. as in the new snap-on/ingersoll rand impact gun. 1000ft/lbs tq. if it wont come off with that, its not coming off, thats how the big boys roll buddy. next time spend a few bucks and get the right equiptment for the job, it pays off trust me.
I don't run a shop - all I've got is my car in my garage. I would be a serious idiot if I spent 400-500 bucks on a tool that I was only going to use once or twice in my lifetime. Maybe if I was going to be working on big rigs - otherwise 550 ft-lb's is more than plenty of torque I will ever need.
If you ask me, would I rather be a "man" with unnecessarily powerful tools and being poor, over having tools with enough power and maybe not being a "man", but having cash that I can spend on other tools, or things for my car - I would definitely pick the latter.
Also, in my opinion, I've got a 69 mach1, the baddest car ever made, sitting in the garage with a huge pair of testicles under the hood. That's more than enough man to make up for my "woman tools"
a recent picture: http://home.comcast.net/~maxoctane/DSC_0232.JPG
#23
I think this is the tool that I need for my 92 Civic VX. Does anyone know of a cheaper tool similar to this? It sure looks pretty.
http://thetoolnetwork.com/crank_pully_holder.html
Seems like a guy (with the right tools) could easily make a tool like this.
http://thetoolnetwork.com/crank_pully_holder.html
Seems like a guy (with the right tools) could easily make a tool like this.
#24
I'm not sure which tool is needed for each engine, but I just removed the bolt on a 92 Accord.
Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. But, I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit tightly. Initially, the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint and moving the engine around on its mounts, but eventually the bushing bottoms out and the torque starts to apply to the bolt. My friend gave me the next idea.
I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar as my engine was still in the car and the car was on a jack. Here, my friend got me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported this with a jack stand at the outer end. I attached my 18" breaker bar to this and a 4' cheater pipe. I next put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. This had been a 2 day ordeal, banging on it with a sledge, heating it, impact wrench. Once I got the right leverage, it just popped out.
Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. But, I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit tightly. Initially, the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint and moving the engine around on its mounts, but eventually the bushing bottoms out and the torque starts to apply to the bolt. My friend gave me the next idea.
I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar as my engine was still in the car and the car was on a jack. Here, my friend got me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported this with a jack stand at the outer end. I attached my 18" breaker bar to this and a 4' cheater pipe. I next put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. This had been a 2 day ordeal, banging on it with a sledge, heating it, impact wrench. Once I got the right leverage, it just popped out.
#25
I spent 80 bucks on a Central Pneumatics 'Earthquake' from Harbor Freight. I hated to spend the 80 bucks for one use, but it worked. 500 pounds of torque 625 max at 90 psi.
If I'd have less ethics, I'd have taken it back after using it.
Take your impact wrench, hammer it lose. If it doesn't come loose, hit it a couple times to tighten and then loosen again.
If I'd have less ethics, I'd have taken it back after using it.
Take your impact wrench, hammer it lose. If it doesn't come loose, hit it a couple times to tighten and then loosen again.
#26
This thread is 6 months old guys....hes probably done the belt job by now.
But to answer the question, my friend simply put my 1/2" drive ratchet with socket on it, put an 18" thick walled pipe on it, and kicked it. This worked the first time. Gotta make sure the pipe is thick though, or it will bend. We tried to use wrenches but the wrenches bent.
But to answer the question, my friend simply put my 1/2" drive ratchet with socket on it, put an 18" thick walled pipe on it, and kicked it. This worked the first time. Gotta make sure the pipe is thick though, or it will bend. We tried to use wrenches but the wrenches bent.
#27
FYI- the majority of impact wrenchs/guns are rated at their tightening torque. take a gun that is rated at 300ft lbs. put it on setting 2 (about 100 foot lbs) and take it to your pulley bolt. whale on it for 5-10 seconds, then put the gun in reverse. MORE THAN LIKELY it wont come off
Also, the gun cant reach its potential if you dont have a big enough compressor. At the shop, theres no problems getting these bolts off... BUT if you only have a 5 gallon compressor, your not using the guns full potential, even if its a full 1" gun at 1,000 ft lbs. Not enough air for it....
Also, the gun cant reach its potential if you dont have a big enough compressor. At the shop, theres no problems getting these bolts off... BUT if you only have a 5 gallon compressor, your not using the guns full potential, even if its a full 1" gun at 1,000 ft lbs. Not enough air for it....
Originally Posted by MaxOctane
easier said than done. I have the helm manual for the car so I know how much to tighten it. Also, the manual speaks nothing of this tool.
Let's think about this...It's already fairly obvious that some people have this bolt on tighter than others - The question is, how much tighter? The impact wrench should be able to take the bolt out. I removed the slack out of the pully and tranny. The pully wasn't giving at all with the impact of the 550 ft/lb impact gun, so it is safe to say this bolt needed 550+ ft/lb of torque to remove it. I was breaking tools with around 400 ft/lbs. Even with the holder handle, I would still need to use the breaker bar and hand tools. I would say there is a good chance I would break something else even with the holder handle...
Let's think about this...It's already fairly obvious that some people have this bolt on tighter than others - The question is, how much tighter? The impact wrench should be able to take the bolt out. I removed the slack out of the pully and tranny. The pully wasn't giving at all with the impact of the 550 ft/lb impact gun, so it is safe to say this bolt needed 550+ ft/lb of torque to remove it. I was breaking tools with around 400 ft/lbs. Even with the holder handle, I would still need to use the breaker bar and hand tools. I would say there is a good chance I would break something else even with the holder handle...
#28
can you do this the same way? At my school we needed to get the bolt off a subaru. So we took a breaker bar and braced it against the frame and the ground. Then unplugged the coil, and gave it a quick flick of the key. Loosened the bolt no problem
#29
Originally Posted by a_integra_87
can you do this the same way? At my school we needed to get the bolt off a subaru. So we took a breaker bar and braced it against the frame and the ground. Then unplugged the coil, and gave it a quick flick of the key. Loosened the bolt no problem