Turbo, Or Port Polish+Tune...
02-02-2005 | 12:23 PM
#21
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Houston
FST
It sounds like you need a plan here man. What are you using this car for? Are you doing anything but daily driving? If you're going to use this with autoX or on a track then in it may be very much in your best interest to look into purchasing or even trading for a manual Integra (it will help you exponentially on the track to have 5 gears with more control). If you plan to use this as a street only car, an auto is fine....but before you turbo take it into a shop(preferably an import shop) and have them change the transmission fluid if you haven't done that lately. There's a magnet at the bottom of the casing, and if it has any metal stuck to it....bail out. It means that your transmission has too much wear to handle boost. Another option would be to look into having the transmission either cryo-treated or shot peened. That's extremely expensive however.
As for the the boosting, with 70k on an LS this can easily be done. Have it compression tested and corrected so that the compression is normal. Decide how much power you want and select your turbo set up from there.
At the end of the day your transmission is holding you back both N/A and turbo. Turbo is going to be cheaper for each hp you gain as compared to N/A, but it won't be as reliable on an auto Tranny and old-er motor (my motor has 74k and i plan to turbo so have no fear, just take the necessary steps).
Hope this helps.
-DaBat
It sounds like you need a plan here man. What are you using this car for? Are you doing anything but daily driving? If you're going to use this with autoX or on a track then in it may be very much in your best interest to look into purchasing or even trading for a manual Integra (it will help you exponentially on the track to have 5 gears with more control). If you plan to use this as a street only car, an auto is fine....but before you turbo take it into a shop(preferably an import shop) and have them change the transmission fluid if you haven't done that lately. There's a magnet at the bottom of the casing, and if it has any metal stuck to it....bail out. It means that your transmission has too much wear to handle boost. Another option would be to look into having the transmission either cryo-treated or shot peened. That's extremely expensive however.
As for the the boosting, with 70k on an LS this can easily be done. Have it compression tested and corrected so that the compression is normal. Decide how much power you want and select your turbo set up from there.
At the end of the day your transmission is holding you back both N/A and turbo. Turbo is going to be cheaper for each hp you gain as compared to N/A, but it won't be as reliable on an auto Tranny and old-er motor (my motor has 74k and i plan to turbo so have no fear, just take the necessary steps).
Hope this helps.
-DaBat
02-03-2005 | 12:40 PM
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
if your auto tranny still runs great, id highly suggest a auxillery transmission cooler.
ITs cheap, and usually not more than a few hours of labour. the #1 killer of automatic transmissions is heat. An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads. It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.
If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
- so a rule of thumb, change your ATF as often as possible - if you change it at every other oil change, your tranny should last a very long time. USe Honda ATF, the car will shift alot smoother than if you used dextron III
ITs cheap, and usually not more than a few hours of labour. the #1 killer of automatic transmissions is heat. An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads. It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.
If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
- so a rule of thumb, change your ATF as often as possible - if you change it at every other oil change, your tranny should last a very long time. USe Honda ATF, the car will shift alot smoother than if you used dextron III
02-03-2005 | 03:29 PM
#24
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Shy Town
ive never changed the trans fluid ever i dont think. thats no good, and i really dont want to do a manual conversion, i drive my car everyday, although, i do like to go to the track, and test out my car, i just want to turbo my car, or maybe just do some N/A thats why i said turbo or N/A, cause its auto, and i drive it all the time, or maybe i should just get another car, doh.