Ring job, Cept I have all the materials, including the headgasket and bearings. I wonder how much they'd charge for it if I provided the materials. h:

 

Not if you set the crank at BDC for 1 & 4 and hone them...then set it at BDC for 2 & 3 and hone those. The people who prefer the smooth cylinder wall finish are those using a very accurate milling machine, and diamond blades...very very very accurate. You'll want to keep the cross hatching. Also make sure you clean the cylinder walls and crank very thoroughly with brake cleaner prior to your piston/ring/bearing install, and after the hone job. Also, you'll need to take out the oil squirters in order to do the hone job...be careful putting them back in, it's easy to strip the hole for them.

 

I would have assumed that it would have been more.

If you are going to hone with the engine still in the car, do it like Master Yodub said with the crank. In the service manual, it says, "Hone cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit or finer) stone in a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern. After honing, clean the bores with hot, soapy water, then dry and oil immediately to prevent rusting." Do this and it should come out fine. Let me know how this goes because my rings need to be done and only I can do them since only high-performance mechanics will work on my car around here and they aren't cheap at all.

 

Don't hone one cylinder for too long...it doesn't take much. Also, don't hone in one spot for too long. Keep the drill moving up and down constantly, and make sure it's perfectly vertical while you hone. It IS possible to hone the walls a little too much..which will prevent a perfect seal.