I have a 1997 GSR. I replaced the original radiator 2 years ago and again last year with aftermarket ones from a local parts store. Both have failed due to leakage from the seem at the top. I also have a small coolant leak from where the upper hose enters the engine. I know that tegs seem to go thru radiators quickly, but wondered if perhaps something else is wrong. I have seen some disucssion about head gaskets, but wouldn't that make the coolent dirty?

The temperature gauge is reading normally. The overflow tank is operating normally.

Thanks for any help that you can provide!

On a possitive note, I am getting really good at replacing these radiators!

 

And you don't have to worry about old crappy fluid either! :thumbup:

Welcome to HAN, sorry though I dont' have any idea.

 

Welcome to HAN. I replaced my radiator last May, and am also experiencing a small leak where the top hose attaches. Thermo and temp gauge work fine, but I'm not very confident. I think LT6916 and a few others have done their radiators more than once, so it's safe to say it's a weak spot for gen 3's. Anyone else have specifics?

 

Welcome to HAN! I am currently on my 4th radiator. It's come to the point where I can do a rad install and coolant flush in 15 minutes!

If you keep getting the OEM replacements make sure they do not come with plastic endtanks like the OEM rad is equipped with. they are weak and especially on a GSR will have problems. also check to make sure the rad cap (probably cheap) isn't leaking or failed. Metal endtanks are best, and unless you are a building a monster engine, you do not need a Fluidyne.

 

Thanks for the response! In addition to the leak around the seem of the radiator, mine has a leak coming from a small pipe coming out of the Water Outlet cover. Is that where your leak is too?

 

Thanks for the information! I hope I don't get that good at replacing these things! Both of the rads I have installed have been non OEM parts, one with plastic endtanks and one with metal.

Given that you are on your 4th rad, did you do any checks to make sure that nothing else was wrong, such as a head gasket or something like that? Given the additional leak from the small pipe coming out of the Water Outlet Cover, I am concerned that this is a symtom of a bigger problem.

Thx.

 

My radiator blew in oct 04 and I had it replaced w/a factory re-man. radiator. I asked some questions about what can cause the seal to blow, and he basically said pressure, redlining, beating on your car, shit like that. Kind of like if a PCV valve goes out. Your venilation will suck and that pressure will have to come out somewhere, hence a oil pan gasket leak or something else.

 

does your radiator fan come on correctly? does it only come on when the a/c is on? if so, then your fan switch may have gone bad. i have seen cars idle for 30 mins after driving, in a garage and not see the fan turn on once, and it only comes on when the a/c is on(my teg included, and the temp gauge reads normal).

also, what kind of coolant is everyone running? i was running prestone(that was safe for aluminum engines) before my rad blew, so i switched back to honda coolant and noticed that the temp gauge takes a little longer to raise to operating temperature. also, mixing brands of coolant is not good.

btw, a complete flush of the cooling system before the new radiator is put in should help.

 

a headgasket wouldn't effect the radiator in terms of blowing a seal. but if your paranoia gets the better of you, flush the radiator and check the drained fluid for any streaks of oil.

although i said you do not need a fluidye, Koyo makes some really quality radiators.

 

Greetings All,

I'm a newb to this forum, had my Integra since '96. It's got Neuspeed Sport springs, Tokico Illuminas, Type R strut brace, and a free flow air filter.

I need to replace the radiator in my '96SE in the next day or so. Mine is leaking along the top tank seam also. Temp is normal, I get an occasional whiff of coolant. The other day I was sitting at a gate waiting to get in, and the temp guage went to half way (it normally stays about 1/3 all the time, here in AZ). As soon as I drove through the gate, the guage quickly went back to normal, so I pressed on. I added some coolant when I got home, the overflow bottle was empty and I added some to the radiator. It seems to be leaking pretty much all along the top tank seam on the engine side. It looks like it's been weeping for a while and is starting to let go now.

Noting the post above about replacing a rad in 15 minutes, how complicated is this task? My car has A/C, is it attached to the radiator or is it mounted separately? It looks like you just have to unbolt the A/C hose bracket and get that out of the way, remove the upper and lower hoses, unplug the fans and take out a few bolts. The only thing I can't see is the A/C condenser and if it's attached to the radiator. Any advice or other information would be appreciated. I'm thinking of doing it myself, even though I HATE coolant.

I found 2-row replacement rad online for $127, and an aluminum 1-row for $267 including shipping. Sounds like decent prices. The Fluidyne I priced was $460! I don't think I need that much cooling, even here in AZ.

I'd appreciate any advice or information on swapping radiators on essentially a stock 2-door LS. I don't have any special cooling needs other than living in AZ and running the A/C for 6 months.

Thanks,

Tim