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Car failed B.A.R. Smog test.

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Old 11-18-2004 | 06:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tobra
You get unburned HC in the oil from blow by, and old oil will accumulate them and it will turn up at tailpipe
So other than changing the oil, which I did today by the way...is there anything else to do to reduce this blow by?

So here is what has been done now:
1. Plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, stock airbox put back on, new air filter, put old manifold back on, changed oil, ran a lucas treatment & advanced the timing to 16. Did I leave anything out?
Old 11-18-2004 | 06:54 PM
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You're good. If you still fail, it's your cat. Make sure to drive it hard before you get the test done, get that cat nice and warm.
Old 11-19-2004 | 12:05 PM
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12/1/04 dude 0700 moment of truth...I'll let you all know how it goes.
Old 11-19-2004 | 03:10 PM
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Good luck man...I know how you feel...been down that road.
Old 11-20-2004 | 08:38 PM
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Hmmm, theres a ton of misinformation in this thread. I looked at your test printout. You only failed on HC's, and not by much. Your number's look pretty good otherwise.
Your cat. is working if you look at the NOX numbers. Don't listen to anyone who says to replace it cause it won't fix your problem. You actually want to retard timing not advance it if you wanted to have better readings. I don't have a clue what yr teg you have but I would make sure the O2 sensor is switching correctly and that the timing is correct. The oil change before the test is good infomation because it does reduce HC's and since your borderline it could help you out. Getting the cat. hot before the test is also good info but it was preforming fine according to the readings so I wouldn't worry to much about it. I would make sure the valves are adjusted correctly as well as I have had that cause smog failures before.

I think you'll be fine if you check some things and make a few adjustments. Don't listen to the morons who say to use additives and different "tricks" to pass the test.
Just get the car running correct and you never need to do anything else.
Just so you know, I am a licensed calif. enhanced test area technician.
Old 11-21-2004 | 08:26 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by hondatech
Hmmm, theres a ton of misinformation in this thread. I looked at your test printout. You only failed on HC's, and not by much. Your number's look pretty good otherwise.
Your cat. is working if you look at the NOX numbers. Don't listen to anyone who says to replace it cause it won't fix your problem. You actually want to retard timing not advance it if you wanted to have better readings. I don't have a clue what yr teg you have but I would make sure the O2 sensor is switching correctly and that the timing is correct. The oil change before the test is good infomation because it does reduce HC's and since your borderline it could help you out. Getting the cat. hot before the test is also good info but it was preforming fine according to the readings so I wouldn't worry to much about it. I would make sure the valves are adjusted correctly as well as I have had that cause smog failures before.

I think you'll be fine if you check some things and make a few adjustments. Don't listen to the morons who say to use additives and different "tricks" to pass the test.
Just get the car running correct and you never need to do anything else.
Just so you know, I am a licensed calif. enhanced test area technician.
Well I can't retard the timing any more than 14 BTDC. Factory setting is 16 -2 +2 so I advanced it to 16. If it out of spec. they will ding me for it. Also, I thought a vlave adjustment is only neccessary if a clatter is detected. That is what I was told when I went to goodyear around 50k and asked for one. The tech. said are they clattering, I was like...no they're not. I just thought after 50 k one should be done. And he said if they are not making any noise they are fine. No noise to date. Thanks for your input by the way.
Old 11-21-2004 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hondatech
Hmmm, theres a ton of misinformation in this thread. I looked at your test printout. You only failed on HC's, and not by much. Your number's look pretty good otherwise.
Your cat. is working if you look at the NOX numbers. Don't listen to anyone who says to replace it cause it won't fix your problem. You actually want to retard timing not advance it if you wanted to have better readings. I don't have a clue what yr teg you have but I would make sure the O2 sensor is switching correctly and that the timing is correct. The oil change before the test is good infomation because it does reduce HC's and since your borderline it could help you out. Getting the cat. hot before the test is also good info but it was preforming fine according to the readings so I wouldn't worry to much about it. I would make sure the valves are adjusted correctly as well as I have had that cause smog failures before.

I think you'll be fine if you check some things and make a few adjustments. Don't listen to the morons who say to use additives and different "tricks" to pass the test.
Just get the car running correct and you never need to do anything else.
Just so you know, I am a licensed calif. enhanced test area technician.
Sorry we can't all be licensed technicians and just do this as a weekend hobby. You're obviously way better than us "morons." The things I mentioned are things that people I know have done to help get their car in as perfect working order before a smog test as possible. It might not make someone pass by itself, but every little bit helps.
Old 11-23-2004 | 12:02 PM
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Chill Gradmast Yo, I don't think he was trying to dis us, jsut help out
Old 11-23-2004 | 06:03 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by centerforce99
Well I can't retard the timing any more than 14 BTDC. Factory setting is 16 -2 +2 so I advanced it to 16. If it out of spec. they will ding me for it. Also, I thought a vlave adjustment is only neccessary if a clatter is detected. That is what I was told when I went to goodyear around 50k and asked for one. The tech. said are they clattering, I was like...no they're not. I just thought after 50 k one should be done. And he said if they are not making any noise they are fine. No noise to date. Thanks for your input by the way.
Valves on integra's should be adjusted at the factory intervals, not just when they are noisy. For example if your exhaust valves were too tight they wouldn't make noise but they could cause you to fail for NOX. Not saying that's specific to your problem but I'm trying to make a point.
I wouldn't take advise from "goodyear" for a Honda btw, they seem to only know about replacing struts, tires and brake rotors.

I wasn't trying to dis anyone either, just trying to help.
Old 11-23-2004 | 10:06 PM
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Well then a word other than "morons" might be a better choice.


How would too tight of exhaust valves fail for NOX? I'm curious as to how that works.




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