Well after months of waiting, I finally got my motor back from Endyn in Texas, and I must say, even though I had a couple of issues, I am very happy with the work they did.

For those of you wondering, here is a list of all the stuff that I have done:

Eagle Rods, Endyn Rollerwave Pistons 12.8:1 (variation on wiseco pistons), 2.0L Golden Eagle re-sleave, Cometic head gasket, radius oil pump(actually made a big difference), Ferrea Valves, Ferrea valve guides, Ferrea valve seals, Ferrea valve spring seats, Custom lathed valve seats with 3-angle valve job, Skunk2 Ti-retainers, Skunk2 valve springs, Skunk2 Stage-2 camshafts, Skunk2 Cam gears, Clutchmaster 7.5lb aluminum flywheel, Clutchmaster clutch and pressure plate, Port and Polish on the head done by Larry at Endyn, Port match intake manifold, all ARP hardware, Comptech Cold Box and intake, Comptech Header, RC310cc injectors, Wahlboro fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, B&M fuel pressure regulator and Gauge, Mugen thermostat, Spoon Radiator Cap, Spoon Drain plugs, Spoon Resivoir covers, H&R springs, Skunk2 front camber kit, Engal rear camber kit, EBC rotors, Hawk pads, DC rear strut tower bar (didnt want to cut that rear panel), Energy suspension motor mount inserts(a must have), Bosch plugs 1 heat range cooler(on my car, made 1 more horse then Iridium, go figure?), Hella HID kit, Skunk2 P28 ECU, Apex-i V-AFC, Autometer gauges, Energy suspension shift linkage bushings (made no difference), Sparco pedals (fit perfect, pain to get on), autometer pin shift light(don't like really big tachs), HAMP Synergy filters, and a hell of a lot of stereo stuff.

I'm sure there is a bunch of stuff that I forgot to mention, but all those of you who ask, what makes a good all motor setup, this is my opinion!

Let me know what you guys think, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Aj

 

That must have cost you a pretty penny! Why did you go with the Clutchmaster over ACT? any particular reason? How's the Comptech Airbox...is it noisy like AEM's (it's fun while you first have it...but after a while, it's like SHUT UP!). As for the Apex'i VTEC A-FC (etc), do you tune them yourselves? Part of the reason why I'm going with a Mugen ECU, is because I don't want to hassle with that, everytime I want to either race my car, or drive it daily (for fuel economy).
List your stuff next time! Reading all those things seperated by comma's makes my eyes feel like :shock:

 

Icebox is quieter. I have one of each. I like the sound of the Icebox better but the stupid horn to my air filer broke so I tossed the AEM back in.

VAFC does have to be tuned by you but just once. Mugen ECU for the fact that you don't have to do anything to it isn't really the way to go. I think for the money you shoudl oook at the VAFC and find someone in the area to help you or get a Hondata and drive to an authorized tuner.

AJ,

looks good. Funny to read because you do go, hrm, wonder why he picked those or that . . .

My thought was wonder why you picked the icebox (I like it but we all know it makes less by just a little and you don't seem to worry about noise) and why the comptech header? Is it a 2.5" collector?

 

I like the comptech ice box, becuase it sounds very similar to the stock box, and as he said, on all the other intakes I've had, you frequently just want them to shut up! Aside from that, it made just under a half horsepower more on the dyno then the Injen CAI I had, so what the hell, I stuck with it.

As far as the comptech headers, at the time I bought them, I was very concerned with keeping my warranty, and in south FLA all the dealers will warranty comptech stuff for some reason or another, but no it is not a 2.5inch collector, but better then nothing at this point, aside from that, I'm opperating on a college student budget, and can't curently afford anything better.

With regards to the VAFC, once you tune it, you leave it alone, it actually has settings to different throttle possitions, so if your not getting on it, it'll automatically adjust the fuel curves for best economy. As far as the Mugen ECU, it works well stock, and with their intake cam, but other then that, I think you'll be very disapointed that you blew $1300 on an ECU.

I chose clutchmaster over ACT because I had a friend that had it sitting brand new in his garage, with the pressure plate, that he gave me for $60, so I really couldn't resist, especially because I had my tranny off to put on the lightened flywheel at the time.

Hey, Trey, what do you run???????

 

What do you mean what do I run? Parts or times?

I think you biggest gains from what you have would be to sell the comptech header and get ANY 2.5" collector header. I prefer the JDM 4-1 on a budget and the SMS or Toda if you can swing it.

 

Aj, how much did you pay for all the labor over at endyn?

 

I meant what do you have as far as motor work, and even your car(PY,FBP,CW, and year)???

I'd agree with you about getting a new header, but as I said before, especially after the outrageous bill I just got for my motor, I have $0 left, and will be a very long time before I'm able to do any parts shopping for my car.

As far as labor over at Endyn, I think it cam up to right around $1800, that's for the P&P, all the machine work, and the assembly.

Later guys!
Aj

 

I have a 98 CW R #0940.

Has
AEM/Icebox (I switch back and for depending on my mood)
JDM 4-1 / Carsound Cat (53006)
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Stock Exhaust
00/01 ITR Intake Cam
2000 R Throttle Body (Not sure there is a difference but this is just by chance and free)
Toda Gen 1 Cam gears
Apex Power FC
Odyssey PC625 Battery (13.2 lbs)

Non-Motor
TEIN HA Suspension
Legend Coupe Front Calipers
Hawk HP+ Front pads
Mazda Millenia Wheels

That is pretty much it unless you are interested in my few cosmetic mods.

 

Hey Aj it seems to me like you know alot about horsepower and so I was wondering if I could get your opinion on the best way to spend $2,000 into a 98 ITR to get the best performance and reliability. Thank you, all opinions welcome!

 

Well best way to spend 2G, hmmmm, you could always send it to me :lol: . Just kidding, but seriously, if I were to spend $2K, it would depend on what was already done to the car. If stock, I would start with a nice intake, a good set of headers, A lightened flywheel, A test pipe or high flow cat, a nice QUIET exhaust, and some HIDs (always nice to be able to see where you are going in such a hurry). It depends on where your priorities lie, and what your future plans are for the car. If you plan to go turbo, obviously you would go a totaly different route, but if you plan to go all motor, you're better off starting with the basics, this way, it'll give you an idea as to how you want to go about building your motor, and if you ever plan to do more.

The stuff I listed is simple, and can always be put back to stock if you ever run into any issues. Most, if not all of it, depending on how mechanically inclined you are can be done in your driveway with a metric socket and open ended wrench set (I'd pay someone to do the flywheel if you can, not worth the hassle to save the money, trust me!!!!).

Let me know what you are looking to accomplish, and I can answer your question far better!!!

Later,
Aj