Hello all,

Long time reader, 1st time post. I have a beautiful 2000 Integra GSR. I have 68k on it and have had a warm air intake since day one. I recently got hit with a check engine light. I thought it was my O2 since the idel and gas miliage was bad. Took it in, told I need a valve adjustment.(never had one in 68k). Had that done and car felt great. Its been less than two months and the light is back on!!!

Now heres the scoop. My engine idles fine. I rev well up to 8k no problem. My check engine light comes on immediatly when I start. I can reset the CPU, but it still comes back. My idle seems fine, but the air comming out my exhaust is sputtery. Meaning, full weak, full weak. full weak... no what I mean?

So Im asking something hard to answer. What do you think my problem is now? The dealership is going to take a look for me, for free, but I just wonder what it could be.

Here is the history.

Before xmas, my idle and milliage was horriable. It would sputter just like it is now, and the check engine light would come on and off ever so often. I thought it was my o2. Took it in, they said valve adjustment. Had that done, BUT they also suggested I replace my NGK plugs.... stating there not plaium. They wanted 20 bucks each and I wasnt about to throw money away. I passed and went home and installed new platium plugs at 5 bucks each. Now I have new plugs, 9mm wires, cap, rotor and valve adjustment. The check engine light came back on within 100 miles of my valve adjustment. Cleared the CPU and it never came back on. The guys at the dealership said it might till I replace the ngk's i have always liked and used? N-e-ways, its almost two months later and now the light is on and wont go off.

Also, when they did the valve adjustment, they did it is like 2 hours. One for cooling, the other the work was done. Can my valves be properly adjusted when the car is warm or possiable hot? Can our engine cool within an hour?

Anyways, there being cool about it at the dealership, but im worried they didnt fix what was needed the fist time around? Or did the vavle job they did, hold good? Am I making any sense? Please advise?

OH! What about timming belt? could that cause the horriable exhause air flow? Again, my car idles fine, but the air flow out is sputtered?

Help a brother out guys, what say you???

 

First things first: check the CEL code. You can do it yourself following these instructions.

Post the code and we can help you troubleshoot it.

 

Thanks MrFatBooty, I printed the instructions and error code report.

Question, can my Integra show more than one code? I was told no... one code offered? But the help you offered mentioned the possiable two code issues?


Furthermore, is this wire under the dash cubby or the leg panel facing the fender?

 

Ok, checked out the CEL code and found I was thrown a 72. Nothing more than just a 72. However, I dont understand WHY? I mean, I just replaced my cap, rotor, wires, plugs in like in December03. I then just put new plugs (remember, I had NGK and like just a month ago put in new platiums. Now. I have 9mm wires. HOWEVER, there them APC brand.... Dont know what to think about them. I mean, there LARGE, the offered a somewhat noticiable difference over my stocks which I had for 60k. I wanted a good brand, but all places wanted to order them and I needed them that day since my stocks broke. But the dude whom did my valve adjustment at the dealership said he didnt like any wires but stock. So, im sitting here wondering if

A.) hes right and the wires suck ass (keep in mind any wires other than stock sucked to him) which is the cause of the noticiable misfires Im having. But why? there new and THICK and not touching anything!

B.) the vavle adjustment HE did in 3 hours on my hot/warm engine wasnt done properly which now is out of adjustment (is that fair to say?)

And then there are some questions on why my two middle plugs are black around the rings? greyish on the prong, but black smiz was around the circumfrence of the rings.... Is it fouled? And if so, why so soon?

I dunno, this makes me hope its a vavle adjustment issues. I dont want to buy stock wires at 69 bucks? OH! I also changed my plugs around to see if it would kill the CEL light being on, or cause a new code to narrow it down to the plug? get me?

What do you all think? Bad valve adjustment? Bad wires? (who has APC wires?), and why my ride missfire?

What say you! Help me out please. And sorry for the novel

 

Replace your #2 cylinder plug, if that doesn't remedy it replace your wire. Do you clean your engine bay at all?

 

Here there, thanks for the tip. Well, I just went out there, swaped the two middle plugs with each other. I didnt know which one was number 2 so I assumed it was one of the middle. I pulled out each plug, one darker than the other. The one being darker would be number 3 from the left side if under the hood. see example... (1) (2) (3) (4).

So both 2 and 3 were swaped. I then checked my wires for any possiable grounds, nothing. All looks good un cap and rotor?

Can my wire be fried? And if so, WHY? there pretty new? Any APC wire owners have any saw on these wires? good/bad???

And no, actually I dont clean my engine department? ITs not full of any grease or guck other than rain water spots. Other than that clean.


Any other suggestions? And what is my wire and plugs are fine? What else can throw a 72?

 

Cylinders are from right to left, (4) (3) (2) (1) with one being the closest to your timing belt. 71-74 are random misfire codes. Last number designating the cylinder.

How are you tightening your plugs? Are your plugs gapped to stock spec? I've seen (and recently experience) plugs get wet from water coming in through aftermarket wires are messing up the plug/wire, that's why I was curious.

From what you said, the 2nd cylinder plug (72) was the worst. Did you say you replaced it? What brand of plugs are these again?

 

Tightening my plugs by hand. Im using bosh platiums now, which whatever pregap they came with. Said I didnt have too....

Interesting enough... number 2 according to your diagram is the one whom the most black shiz on it. Also, it appeared to give way under tightening. However I used a torque wrench to tighten to spec...

The wires are APC 9mm wires. The dealership had stock at 69 bucks. I wanted ACCEL and no one had them. Pepboys only had stock replacement for 40 bucks, which I tried, but they broke under testing. Returned them for the APC brand 9mm blue wires. Now there THICK and they actually look like good quality from the outside. The input shaft is ceramic, the wires are tight looking in appearence. No loose cover that could possiable get water condissation. There wrapped in tight blue cover.

Im thinking its my valve adjustment. Why else other than dirty fuel injectors?

 

Hmm

I'd honestly reccomend ditching the wires. They are probably fine for now, but I just ordered NGK Blues and I've heard awesome things about them. You could check/clean the #2 cylinder injector if replacing that plug and switching out wires doesn't help.

Wait for a few more responses though, I'm interested in everyone elses take on this.

 

Is cleaning the injector easy? Can I pull it out and put it back with no harm?

HEY that me IM'ing you! "Needsomepos"