Oooh, thanks for making sense of that for me .

 

...LoL... Ramman949 [/QUOTE]



Flipped a Hummer off.... Bastard tried to run me off the road man! Dude got pissy and shouted, yelled, replied with the bird and the up yours gesture...lol

Now I want to purposly mess with them...LoL

 

Switched the APC wires to factory stock. Changed the BOSH plugs to NGK's you recommended. Drove the car for 30 minutes straight, got another CEL light. Code 73, which is #2 misfire. Cap and Rotor look fine. The bosch plugs came out clean, but #2 had much more carbon on the base ring compaired to the others....

Im taking it back and demanding another look over from the dealership. Remember I paid for a vavle adjustment and they did it quick style. Or they charged me for something i didnt need, could be a fuel issue or MAP sensor??? What do I know, but this SUCKS!


Thanks for all the advice guys...


Don

 

73 should be cylinder 3. Your cylinders are like this 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 from left to right. Sounds like an injector problem possibly.

 

hope this might help you alitle bit... look at the pictures carefully it sayse everuthing on there... i got those from www.alldatapro.com
its a $1000 online manual or something but i can tell you anything for any car manufactured after 1982

good luck

 

Damn, awesome IntegraR, I think you could make yourself quite useful with AllData access .

Maybe it could be his valve adjustment then :dunno:.

 

thats posible

 

Hey there guys. Sorry for the lag in responce. Been busy selling RAM. Anyways, I continue to get code 73. I thought that went to #2, but as you corrected me, its #3? At any rate, #2 spark plug is the one that looks more used? Who cares, moving on. I still havent taken it back to the dealer ship. I probably will do so shortly. I appreciate the help on this matter.

Heres what I have learned since though. My CEL didnt come on since I swaped everything to stock till 30 minutes into a drive. I immedialty noticed a swing in my idle as if the car was hitting on 3. Got out of my car, felt the exhaust, and its clearly not hitting all 4. The air pressure comming out is sputter and the RPMs bounce around 600-800. Drove it for a week and it went off. Now car idles fine. Another few days pass and its on again and Im hitting on 3 again. So if it is the vavles, would they do this? Work one day, not the next? The only thing I have yet to look at since I replaced it 5 months ago is the new stock rotor cap. Perhaps there some issues in there?
And if it was dirty fuel injector, can it work one day and not the next? And can I clean them myself at home?

Taking a look at the engine. It appears the fuel rall is above the injectors. Can I just unbolt all that stuff, get the injectors out, clean them up if I can, put them back in, bolt all that stuff back? Remember, I know how to use tools, but I havent really done anything this hard core. Bolt-ons, no problem. Doing stock stuff, eeww scary.

 

Hello all,

Well, it wasnt my wires causing the misfires. I finnally got back into the small dealership which did my vavle adjustment. I bitched and complained that, hey, they said I needed a vavle adjustment, got that done and I still have a CEL light on, throwing code 72 or 73, whatever misfire #2 is. Anyways, I purchased new 85 dollar NGK wires. STILL HAVE THAT DAM CEL on.

They swore it was the wires. Took it back and now there saying same code, but we did a compression check and your 110 on #2 where as the rest are all 180's. OUCH. To that end I said its not bottom end for sure. No smoke comming from my exhaust, no oil buring and my gas milliage is 280 a take??? They agreeded with me saying its your head man...

I then asked them, could a bad vavle job cause this? I actually spoke to the mechanic whom did the vavle adjustment, asking him, .... "hey man, honeslty, could it be a bad job on your part?". He thought about it and said, no, low compression has nothing to do with vavles? Say wha? So they wanted me to pay 650 to tear me head off and search for the issue. The mechanic said I should put some fuel system cleaner to just make sure its not guck on me vavle seal or seat... prior to letting them at it for the 650

I dunno, but Im sick of this run around. First its your need a valve adjustment, 160 there spent. Then its new wires, well I spent a total of 170 on two sets of new wires in 5 months, three sets of plugs. 85 for the APC 9.5mm, and 85 for some ngk wires they reccomended. Still getting this issue, I took it to another dealership (the largest one around here and the place I bought it), they said they would look into it and let me know for free. Got there and then they wanted 85 bucks. I got pissed and said and just went back to the one I had my vavle adjustment at demanding that they look into it again.

So that happened today. They did a compression check and there wanting me to pay 650 for them to tear it apart and look. Im not doing it with them, so it looks like I will be going back to the big dealership where I bought the car. I usually go to them anyhow, but there always so busy and I have no time. I dont know guys, but this sucks. OH! The big dealership says Im getting the run around too and that I should bring it to them for 85 bucks. They seem to think I dont have low compression, but rather a bad vavle job. Dude actually said...."you dont have low compression... I hardly doubt that, Ive listened to you for a couple weeks now and I say vavles". So Im going there for another 85 bucks down the drain...


Question...

Can a off adjustment vavle job cause misfires?
Can it case low compression?
Can it be that he did a shit adjustment?

Things to consider...
Milliage is fine, even with cel on for the last tank...280 a tank.
It was like 250ish prior to vavle adjustment.
HEAD is VERY much hotter since vavle adjustment than my past two tegs have been after normal driving. ITs hot to touch big time, much more than normal I think.
Not buring oil, not using up lots of oil, not really using much oil, seems to be at same level all the time.
Idle horriable.
REvs up to 8200 just fine with out a lick of sputter, like it was new, really.
Its powerful like new too. Im not loosing power at all
Its just at idle when comming to stop that it chokes up and bounces roughly.
For example, it will sometime hit 200 RPM CEL will come on, then im like 400-600 roughly ideling with CEL on. I can clear the CPU, run the car for a few days/weeks or more with no CEL and once I have pushed it a tad or its hot, I get a CEL. NEVER while driving in motion. Normally just comming to stop or upon start.

So, I got good gas milliage, no oil burning, a hotter than what I say is normal head, I got engine power, Ive got ability to REV just fine all the way up to 8200k (I dont drive it up to 8200, but it can do it), Ive got new wires, plugs, cap, rotor and all thats fine too. No noise from engine at all, no clicks, nothing.

I just dont forsee a possiable bent vavle doing this. On and off. I dont forsee my head being f'ed up. I baby this thing. Ive had three so Im done being racerboy. ARGH, Anyone in Orange county willing to help me out here? Im so sick of spending money for nothing, then again I shoulw just let the big dealership take a look for another 85 bucks shouldnt I... perhaps so, they have never done me wrong. Where as this place, told me vavle adjustement, wires, to fuel issues, to low compression. Many excuses that just cost me money for nothing...so it seeems.

HELP if you can, I do read this and appreciate it all.

Thank you all,
Don aka Ramman949

 

that sucks
fo wires i used msd the are a 50 ohms resistance no probs just goodness
dont use bosch plugs on your japanese car.
do you put wasibi on your schnitzle?
bosch ae germanpligs for german cARS