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Basic Setup for 200hp N/A on a c1

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Old 02-10-2004 | 09:13 PM
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CiViC2nR86
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Default Basic Setup for 200hp N/A on a c1

Alright, I picked up and old GS-R motor from a friend, it has about 230,000 miles on it. Are Cams, Pistons, Rods, Intake, Header, Exhaust all I really need to get 200HP N/A? Im Planing to drop this into My LS, as for the Chassis, is there a difference between the LS and GS-R Chassis besides the front Strut Bars?
Old 02-10-2004 | 09:31 PM
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You should make it over 200hp with a compression increase, cams, headwork, bolt ons, and tuning.
Old 02-10-2004 | 09:59 PM
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And the Chassis is the same
Old 02-10-2004 | 09:59 PM
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Add valvesprings, retainers, and Hondata to that list.

I don't think you can make 200whp with cams that are safe for OEM valvetrain.
Old 02-11-2004 | 08:43 PM
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About the cams for the c1, are the revs pretty smooth before VTEC kicks in, or is my Idle going to be really rough if I get more aggressive cams.
Old 02-11-2004 | 08:59 PM
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You'd have to go super aggressive on the cams to get rough idle, or remove VTEC entirely.
Old 02-12-2004 | 11:25 AM
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Get it ballanced if possible. You should be able to get that much with the RIGHT parts. jun cams and valve springs, 11:1 comp pistons, Eagle h beam rods, most headers and intake are the same as long as you don't get really cheap ones. Hondata ecu or even just a vafc will be needed for tuning. You could probably get more than that if it is tuned right.
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Old 02-12-2004 | 12:54 PM
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Geez guys, it's only 200 whp.

You will need:

intake
skunk2 stage 2 cams (knockoff of JUN type-3 and cheaper)
upgraded valve springs and retainers
adjustable cam gears
CTR pistons
header with 2.5" collector (DC JDM 4-1 will do, I prefer stainless)
2.5" cat
2.5" custom pipes to muffler of your choice

As for tuning there are a few options. Since the car has OBD-II wiring, to go Hondata will require a '94-'95 OBD-I P72 ECU and a plug-in harness adapter. The ECU can be found used for probably 200 bucks (they're kind of at a premium in the market) and a harness is like $120 from importparts.com, these prices of course are on top of the price of a Hondata conversion. You could also run a V-AFC which doesn't allow you to adjust the ignition timing maps but really there's not as much power/driveability to be gained there as with the fuel maps. Or you could go all-out and get an AEM EMS which plugs right in to your existing wiring but it'll run you like $1500. For a normally aspirated motor I would say anything more than the Hondata is probably more than you need.

Also, given the mileage on the motor you want to replace all wear items like belts, seals, gaskets, etc. If you're going to be installing new pistons it's a good idea to replace all the bearings and thrust washers as well. Any Acura dealer will be able to give you a parts list for rebuilding a motor and you can just substitute in the performance parts.
Old 02-12-2004 | 02:32 PM
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with 230,000 miles on it id invest in some rods if youre shootin for 200 whp
Old 02-12-2004 | 10:18 PM
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For exhaust, how big is the EXMAG's piping? As for the CTR-Pistons, do they fit right in or do I need to do some modification? Would I need to resleeve my motor? And I will only be able to spend about $600 per month, so wat should I get first? Im thinking about I/H/E first, then Cams and Headwork, and then the pistons and rods, then lastly I would probably get a s200 and get it tuned, with the CTR pistons, wat octane gas should I run, my local gas station only offers 91.

Mr. Fat Booty, thanx a lot for the incredible amount of information, this will be my first time building up a motor, so If you guys have any tips, please type away.

I already bought the motor and now im saving up for some new engine mounts, A GS-R transmission, and all the belts and hoses. I think I would probably sell my 2000 LS and grab a old LS to drop the motor in.

About the motor, Is it safe for the motor to just sit on the ground? Because I dont have anything to hoist it up, its just laying on the groudn right now with the heads off, the valves look REALLY burnt, but i think that may just be normal, but the pistons has indents on it from the valves, it looks like they've been hitting or something, and cylinder 3 looks really clean, I think the head gasket is blown and it was burning coolant or something. I wish I knew more about the history of this motor, but its too late to do anything..


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