In need of 90-93 Teg LS tech Q&A.
#1
In need of 90-93 Teg LS tech Q&A.
I'll try and keep this sweat and simple, since I can imagine like the Accord forum the Teg forum gets many of these threads.
My old college roomate got to purchase his dad's old teg for his daily driver a few years back when his Mazda 323 failed too pass emissions testing. The Acura is a 90 Teg LS 5-spd. Its the super sleeper light brown outside with the dark brown inside Aside from the color this car is very clean for Ohio inside and out. No rust at all, good paint, near spotless interior. He can't decide weather to fix up the Teg (BTW he has 2 young babies & his wife has a new Sonata sedan) or buy a newer used gen1 CL coupe 4-cyl stick. He currently has a few issue that bother him about the teg. He has replaced all the stuff that goes wrong in the maint. area and has fresh goodyear tires that he has balanced twice. Now to the issues:
1. The car has a vibration when the tranny is in gear and rolling, the tire shop and his mechanic state it is out of balance tires. But pushing the clutch in resolves the issue while rolling at speed. I think it is the intermediate shaft or an axle out of wack, but he isn't listening too me, what do you guys think it is. His mechanic also states the CV's are fine, but I tend to wonder.
2. He is also caught up in the hype of VTEC, assuming he takes the time to fix the vibration. His car is very clean as I said, he has 150k+ mi on the clock, but the chassis still feels tight. He is not a hardcore Honda guy and as I said it's his daily driver. Would a B16A Vtec swap from a standard order rod type tranny package be worth his wild. I don't think a B18A Vtec package would fit his budget too well. I have seen complete B16A junkard kits online. Do you guys have any recommendations? Most kits I have seen run $1200-1400 for Tranny, Engine and ECU. I have a 2-post carlift in my garage and all the usual back yard mechanic tools. Should I try and convince him this is an easy swap save for the wiring?
Aside from the newer gen1-CL I was also trying to steer him toward a 98+ Teg Sedan, He would prefer a GSR, but I've been trying to keep him in the real world of LS and GS being easier and cheaper to find. If he purchases a newer used car he is looking to stay under 10k, I was hoping to try and fix up his current teg for 3-5k if I could help him out.
Thanks for reading the post. I look forward to any advice you may have. :cheers:
My old college roomate got to purchase his dad's old teg for his daily driver a few years back when his Mazda 323 failed too pass emissions testing. The Acura is a 90 Teg LS 5-spd. Its the super sleeper light brown outside with the dark brown inside Aside from the color this car is very clean for Ohio inside and out. No rust at all, good paint, near spotless interior. He can't decide weather to fix up the Teg (BTW he has 2 young babies & his wife has a new Sonata sedan) or buy a newer used gen1 CL coupe 4-cyl stick. He currently has a few issue that bother him about the teg. He has replaced all the stuff that goes wrong in the maint. area and has fresh goodyear tires that he has balanced twice. Now to the issues:
1. The car has a vibration when the tranny is in gear and rolling, the tire shop and his mechanic state it is out of balance tires. But pushing the clutch in resolves the issue while rolling at speed. I think it is the intermediate shaft or an axle out of wack, but he isn't listening too me, what do you guys think it is. His mechanic also states the CV's are fine, but I tend to wonder.
2. He is also caught up in the hype of VTEC, assuming he takes the time to fix the vibration. His car is very clean as I said, he has 150k+ mi on the clock, but the chassis still feels tight. He is not a hardcore Honda guy and as I said it's his daily driver. Would a B16A Vtec swap from a standard order rod type tranny package be worth his wild. I don't think a B18A Vtec package would fit his budget too well. I have seen complete B16A junkard kits online. Do you guys have any recommendations? Most kits I have seen run $1200-1400 for Tranny, Engine and ECU. I have a 2-post carlift in my garage and all the usual back yard mechanic tools. Should I try and convince him this is an easy swap save for the wiring?
Aside from the newer gen1-CL I was also trying to steer him toward a 98+ Teg Sedan, He would prefer a GSR, but I've been trying to keep him in the real world of LS and GS being easier and cheaper to find. If he purchases a newer used car he is looking to stay under 10k, I was hoping to try and fix up his current teg for 3-5k if I could help him out.
Thanks for reading the post. I look forward to any advice you may have. :cheers:
#2
1. I'm not a mechanic and it's really hard to diagnose a problem over the internet but from what you say it sounds like it is engine/transmission/clutch/axle related.
2. Pretty much any B-series engine will fit right in and only a little wiring will be needed to hook up a vtec engine. The b16a is an easy fit because it came stock in certain japanese 2nd gen integras. However, many people are deterred by the subustantial loss in torque compared with the stock b18a and thus opt for the significantly more expensive b18c. It's really up to the owner and what he/she can prefers or can afford.
If your friend is looking for a sporty project car then I probably wouldn't look at a CL. It is essentially an Accord and you can get the 4 cylinder engine with a 5 speed but the 3 liter V6 only comes with auto. Although it is a very nice looking car I don't see it as very mod friendly compared to an integra. The 98+ integra option sounds good since you would be dealing with a newer car and less wear, tear, and deterioration on the parts. But then you are paying for the cost of a new car instead of for parts. It's really up to the owner, what he/she prefers, and can afford.
2. Pretty much any B-series engine will fit right in and only a little wiring will be needed to hook up a vtec engine. The b16a is an easy fit because it came stock in certain japanese 2nd gen integras. However, many people are deterred by the subustantial loss in torque compared with the stock b18a and thus opt for the significantly more expensive b18c. It's really up to the owner and what he/she can prefers or can afford.
If your friend is looking for a sporty project car then I probably wouldn't look at a CL. It is essentially an Accord and you can get the 4 cylinder engine with a 5 speed but the 3 liter V6 only comes with auto. Although it is a very nice looking car I don't see it as very mod friendly compared to an integra. The 98+ integra option sounds good since you would be dealing with a newer car and less wear, tear, and deterioration on the parts. But then you are paying for the cost of a new car instead of for parts. It's really up to the owner, what he/she prefers, and can afford.
#3
I have had a similar problem with my 90 rs. The problem was a bad tire. It seemed wierd to me that the vibration would only occur during acceleration, but thats what it was.
I was silly and did not believe the advice at first, replaced both axles (it was due anyway) and tried many other things, but getting the front tires replaced cured it.
As another Ohio Integra owner, good luck, even if it *did* get moved to Wisconsin.
I was silly and did not believe the advice at first, replaced both axles (it was due anyway) and tried many other things, but getting the front tires replaced cured it.
As another Ohio Integra owner, good luck, even if it *did* get moved to Wisconsin.
#4
i'd say keep the integra, and fix it up. the b16 will be fine in there, but i'd recommend opting for the gsr motor (b18c) or even the type r motor. if anything do an ls/vtec set up with the bottom block he already has.
as for the problem, there might be a leak in the compression, if not, then it's definately the axels, i doubt it has anything to do with the tranny if it's get into gear fine and is drivable without any grinding in between gears.
as for the problem, there might be a leak in the compression, if not, then it's definately the axels, i doubt it has anything to do with the tranny if it's get into gear fine and is drivable without any grinding in between gears.
#5
If you are still looking for info www.g2ic.com has very good information, If you are search im pretty sure a few of those topics have been discussed before.
Brett
Brett
#6
If you haven't purchased the b16a yet, don't. The b16 is not a great candidate for a G2. The times of the b16 are negligable over the b18a, and I've heard some people their car actually got slower after swapping in a b16.
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