Springs or Shocks
#11
Thanks for the replies. It looks like if i get them i'll be installing them right away (who could wait) but i don't see shocks in the near future, at least a year away. I guess there is no way to tell how much my shocks would degrade with the new springs but i hope to get a year out of them unless i get a good deal on some new ones.
#12
I would honestly have gone with new shocks. I know a guy that put a new set of Koni Red's on his teg with the stock shocks. Now they aren't near what the Koni Yellow's are, but it did have a big affect on the body roll of the car. It was much stiffer with a lot less roll through corners...great improvement on the overall ride. Definately a little bit stiffer, but ride comfort was in no way sacrificed. If you are going to keep the stock shocks...anything more than the drop from a set of pro-kits will cuse extreme wear on shocks and may cause them to blow quickly. If you are talking about the Eibach Sportlines..they are a 2.5" drop..and way too much of a drop for stock shocks IMO...they will bound a lot though as the stock shocks were not made to handle that high of a spring rate. Just my $.02 though. Eibach pro-kits are the way to go though...best springs on the market IMO...great ride with a very nice progressive spring rate.
#13
Originally posted by slickboy
If you are talking about the Eibach Sportlines..they are a 2.5" drop..and way too much of a drop for stock shocks IMO...
If you are talking about the Eibach Sportlines..they are a 2.5" drop..and way too much of a drop for stock shocks IMO...
http://www.eibach.com/index1.htm
Go to "Application Guide" and look for the Integra.
#14
Thanks for the replies. The springs are indeed the pro kit #4020. I just installed them, or tried to for that matter. I got the front ones in no problem and then happily headed to the rear only to have the first bold head snap off on me (the lower strut bold). I thought, "ok so now i'll just take out the lower control arm and drill it out, no big deal," HA! every fricken bold in the rear end is seized (acually the upper lower control arm bolt is free) so i welded up the strut to the bolt where the head snapped off and now i am waiting for all new bushings for the rear end to arrive. I will be using a zip disk to cut out all the old bushings and will be replacing them all in an attempt to clean up this mess .
As i mentioned the front springs r in place and i have driven on them the last 2 days but i must say that the drop seems to be hardly noticable. Has anyone else found this? I mean, i notice that it is lower but hardly enough to walk up and say "hey that car is lowered." the ride is still fine so all is well i guess.
Let me know your thoughts, has this seized bolt problem come up before? How about the lack in noticable height change?
Thanks very much
As i mentioned the front springs r in place and i have driven on them the last 2 days but i must say that the drop seems to be hardly noticable. Has anyone else found this? I mean, i notice that it is lower but hardly enough to walk up and say "hey that car is lowered." the ride is still fine so all is well i guess.
Let me know your thoughts, has this seized bolt problem come up before? How about the lack in noticable height change?
Thanks very much
#15
Originally Posted by +ve psi
Thanks for the replies. The springs are indeed the pro kit #4020. I just installed them, or tried to for that matter. I got the front ones in no problem and then happily headed to the rear only to have the first bold head snap off on me (the lower strut bold). I thought, "ok so now i'll just take out the lower control arm and drill it out, no big deal," HA! every fricken bold in the rear end is seized (acually the upper lower control arm bolt is free) so i welded up the strut to the bolt where the head snapped off and now i am waiting for all new bushings for the rear end to arrive. I will be using a zip disk to cut out all the old bushings and will be replacing them all in an attempt to clean up this mess .
As i mentioned the front springs r in place and i have driven on them the last 2 days but i must say that the drop seems to be hardly noticable. Has anyone else found this? I mean, i notice that it is lower but hardly enough to walk up and say "hey that car is lowered." the ride is still fine so all is well i guess.
Let me know your thoughts, has this seized bolt problem come up before? How about the lack in noticable height change?
Thanks very much
As i mentioned the front springs r in place and i have driven on them the last 2 days but i must say that the drop seems to be hardly noticable. Has anyone else found this? I mean, i notice that it is lower but hardly enough to walk up and say "hey that car is lowered." the ride is still fine so all is well i guess.
Let me know your thoughts, has this seized bolt problem come up before? How about the lack in noticable height change?
Thanks very much
#17
Yeah, it'll settle down in a few days. Plus it will look lower after you get the rears installed as well, and you lose that "60's drag car" effect.
Also are you on stock wheels? If not what size? If you have 16's or 17's, your car won't really look lowered at all.
Also are you on stock wheels? If not what size? If you have 16's or 17's, your car won't really look lowered at all.
#18
I think you're right jgordan, it should be better once i get the rears all fixed up, although it looks pretty normal now anyways. Stock 15" gs wheels (12 spoke? 205/50r15).
Can you believe acura wants $35 CAN for each bushing, that's over $200CAN to do the rear end!! How does $140 US sound for the complete set of energy bushings?
Can you believe acura wants $35 CAN for each bushing, that's over $200CAN to do the rear end!! How does $140 US sound for the complete set of energy bushings?
#19
Hold up, you welded the strut into the car? :thinking:
I don't see why you need to replace the bushings to fix a bunch of siezed bolts but um, okay. Have you tried using something like PB Blaster to loosen the siezed bolts? Also you may need a press to install the bushings but I figure if you've got a welder handy then you've probably got a few other tools at your disposal.
I don't see why you need to replace the bushings to fix a bunch of siezed bolts but um, okay. Have you tried using something like PB Blaster to loosen the siezed bolts? Also you may need a press to install the bushings but I figure if you've got a welder handy then you've probably got a few other tools at your disposal.
#20
I snapped the head of the bottom strut bolt and rather than drive like that i welded the broken end of the bolt to the strut so it wouldn't move. I've tried a few different compounds to free up the bolts but i believe they are "fused" inside the metal sleeve of the bushings. All three bolts on the lower control arm (upper, lower, and bottom strut) are seized....completely. The only way to get anything done is to use a zip disk to cut each side of the bushings to release them from their purches, hence the need for new bushings. I'm able to get some black energy suspension bushings for the upper and lower mounts for the control arm but i'm having a hard time finding aftermarket bushings for the bottom of the strut.
My previous job was in metal fabrication and lucky i left on good terms and still have access to all my old facilities, this includes the press which as MrFatbooty stated will definitly be necessary.
My previous job was in metal fabrication and lucky i left on good terms and still have access to all my old facilities, this includes the press which as MrFatbooty stated will definitly be necessary.