B18C1 into '94 CX hatch
#1
B18C1 into '94 CX hatch
Progressing quickly. All bumper 'modifications' required to allow us to get the engine out of the car were done today. The car had been in an accident and the rad fan shrouds had melted to the headers, and all that other fun stuff.
Any info anyone can give me on swapping the GSR disc brakes in?
Any info anyone can give me on swapping the GSR disc brakes in?
#2
as long as the motor is good, that's all that matters.
did you do any test like pressure/leakdown?
as for the brakes?
you can use everything from the gsr.
disconnect the a arm from the body, and the lower control arms from the bottom, and the steering arm from the knuckle(hub?) and you can remove everything in one solid piece, just a ***** to put back up all together.
but take the lower control arms from the teg.
take the hub and knuckle, and the calipers and all that good stuff and put all of that on the cx. replace it all with the integra stuff.
but some new brake lines if not just use the integra ones.
for the rear take out the trailing arms, and the lower control arms and brake lines and swap them all in to the cx. don't forget the emergency brake lines.
since you are pulling all of it out, put in some new suspsension bushings for an integra gsr into those things also big a plus.
at the same time nab the front sway bar
you can use the rear sway bar for the time being but pick up an itr rear sway also.
and a beaks kit for rear subframe reinforcement..
if the gsr came with a front stower strut brace and is still good take that too....
steal the fuel filter and fuel pump
steel the brake master cylinder
if you don't have abs steal the porportionate valve too... (but looks like you do have abs)
seats if you like 'em...
take the cluster also
if you want me to type in how to do a brake conversion let me know... i'll do it tomorrow.
right now i sleep.
most people would ***** about doing all that work, but i think i'd love to do all that work at once!
do you have an obd1 p72 ecu? for the swap?
ps. anyone got info on how a leakdown test works?
did you do any test like pressure/leakdown?
as for the brakes?
you can use everything from the gsr.
disconnect the a arm from the body, and the lower control arms from the bottom, and the steering arm from the knuckle(hub?) and you can remove everything in one solid piece, just a ***** to put back up all together.
but take the lower control arms from the teg.
take the hub and knuckle, and the calipers and all that good stuff and put all of that on the cx. replace it all with the integra stuff.
but some new brake lines if not just use the integra ones.
for the rear take out the trailing arms, and the lower control arms and brake lines and swap them all in to the cx. don't forget the emergency brake lines.
since you are pulling all of it out, put in some new suspsension bushings for an integra gsr into those things also big a plus.
at the same time nab the front sway bar
you can use the rear sway bar for the time being but pick up an itr rear sway also.
and a beaks kit for rear subframe reinforcement..
if the gsr came with a front stower strut brace and is still good take that too....
steal the fuel filter and fuel pump
steel the brake master cylinder
if you don't have abs steal the porportionate valve too... (but looks like you do have abs)
seats if you like 'em...
take the cluster also
if you want me to type in how to do a brake conversion let me know... i'll do it tomorrow.
right now i sleep.
most people would ***** about doing all that work, but i think i'd love to do all that work at once!
do you have an obd1 p72 ecu? for the swap?
ps. anyone got info on how a leakdown test works?
Last edited by Bumnah; 07-17-2002 at 09:39 PM.
#3
Originally posted by Bumnah
ps. anyone got info on how a leakdown test works?
ps. anyone got info on how a leakdown test works?
there may be differnt types of leakdown test that do the whole engine that can detect leaks in seals but the one above is the one everyone refers to when they say leakdown test.
you can buy a leakdown test kit for around 100-200 i believe.
#4
Originally posted by gritsak
what it does, pump air into the cylinders (through where the spark plug would go) then measures how much leakage there is (through piston rings, head gasket, ect.)
there may be differnt types of leakdown test that do the whole engine that can detect leaks in seals but the one above is the one everyone refers to when they say leakdown test.
you can buy a leakdown test kit for around 100-200 i believe.
what it does, pump air into the cylinders (through where the spark plug would go) then measures how much leakage there is (through piston rings, head gasket, ect.)
there may be differnt types of leakdown test that do the whole engine that can detect leaks in seals but the one above is the one everyone refers to when they say leakdown test.
you can buy a leakdown test kit for around 100-200 i believe.
i thought that was the compression check? to see how much compression there is in each cylinder???
#5
More in depth than a compression test. Helps pinpoint problems you will miss.
Do everything at once man that would be badass. Wish I had. Went a whole year on stock brakes and suspension till i recently did the whole thing up w/ springs, shocks bushings, lines, swaybars. strutbar, rotors, pads, etc etc. Taking the corners is much more fun now:naughty:
Just find myself going a lot faster. Im always doing like 50-70 in the city passing folks. Bumps can be a biotch too.
One note that I have learned: If swapping rear sway check for exhaust fit. Having to trade my DUnk for something else. Wont even clear puny GSR rear sway. Are you running the typr R sway bumnah? Even if you are dont you have that bootleg flowmaster? Guess you cant recomend an exhaust that fits.
Do everything at once man that would be badass. Wish I had. Went a whole year on stock brakes and suspension till i recently did the whole thing up w/ springs, shocks bushings, lines, swaybars. strutbar, rotors, pads, etc etc. Taking the corners is much more fun now:naughty:
Just find myself going a lot faster. Im always doing like 50-70 in the city passing folks. Bumps can be a biotch too.
One note that I have learned: If swapping rear sway check for exhaust fit. Having to trade my DUnk for something else. Wont even clear puny GSR rear sway. Are you running the typr R sway bumnah? Even if you are dont you have that bootleg flowmaster? Guess you cant recomend an exhaust that fits.
#6
Originally posted by white lightnin
More in depth than a compression test. Helps pinpoint problems you will miss.
Do everything at once man that would be badass. Wish I had. Went a whole year on stock brakes and suspension till i recently did the whole thing up w/ springs, shocks bushings, lines, swaybars. strutbar, rotors, pads, etc etc. Taking the corners is much more fun now:naughty:
Just find myself going a lot faster. Im always doing like 50-70 in the city passing folks. Bumps can be a biotch too.
One note that I have learned: If swapping rear sway check for exhaust fit. Having to trade my DUnk for something else. Wont even clear puny GSR rear sway. Are you running the typr R sway bumnah? Even if you are dont you have that bootleg flowmaster? Guess you cant recomend an exhaust that fits.
More in depth than a compression test. Helps pinpoint problems you will miss.
Do everything at once man that would be badass. Wish I had. Went a whole year on stock brakes and suspension till i recently did the whole thing up w/ springs, shocks bushings, lines, swaybars. strutbar, rotors, pads, etc etc. Taking the corners is much more fun now:naughty:
Just find myself going a lot faster. Im always doing like 50-70 in the city passing folks. Bumps can be a biotch too.
One note that I have learned: If swapping rear sway check for exhaust fit. Having to trade my DUnk for something else. Wont even clear puny GSR rear sway. Are you running the typr R sway bumnah? Even if you are dont you have that bootleg flowmaster? Guess you cant recomend an exhaust that fits.
i couldnt' clear 2.5" piping with my ITR rear lca's, and the ITR rear sway..
i too had to ditch my dunk cause of the rear suspension
i miss my dunk.
i used to put nerf footballs in the tip for kicks.
#7
Thats exactly what I have. Apexi dunk. Gotta love the guge tip eh? Some guy might trade his racing meallion for my Dunk. I think It will fit since the guy I bought my engine from had it and was running full Type R suspension. I hope so.
#8
Originally posted by Bumnah
i thought that was the compression check? to see how much compression there is in each cylinder???
i thought that was the compression check? to see how much compression there is in each cylinder???
a leakdown i think you use an air compressor and pump air into the cylinder and the guage measures how much pressure is bleading off (a leak). this is actually a better test then a compression because it gives you a better idea of what kinda condition the internals are in.
#9
coo... thanks a bunch
now back to the topic at hand
now back to the topic at hand
#10
I had abs, but it is very uh... dead. Should I buy a GSR proportioning valve?
Seats are being sold, same with cluster and such. I'm trying to keep it as sleeper as will be possible with GSR brakes. 13" steelies won't fit anymore.
I have an AEM programmable engine management system on its way, that's what I'm doing ECU-wise so that it can handle the individual throttle bodies.
I would like brake swap info or a link to an DIY if you have it.
Seats are being sold, same with cluster and such. I'm trying to keep it as sleeper as will be possible with GSR brakes. 13" steelies won't fit anymore.
I have an AEM programmable engine management system on its way, that's what I'm doing ECU-wise so that it can handle the individual throttle bodies.
I would like brake swap info or a link to an DIY if you have it.