Problems: Car shuts off DURING nitrous run!!
#1
Problems: Car shuts off DURING nitrous run!!
The scariest thing happened 2 days ago. I just installed a NX direct port kit on my h22 accord. I was told by some people online to use the 22N/16F jets for an 80hp shot. I was also told by someone at NX to use a 22N/18F @ 10psi for a 75hp shot. The direct port kit does not come with #16 jets, so I used the #18 fuel jets(waiting for #16 to come in), thinking that it will run rich because the stock fuel pressure is at ~42psi, and WOT im guessing a lot more. So quite a bit richer.
So I went to the track, turned on my NX controller, sprayed through 4 gears, then when I let go of the gas and step on the clutch to coast after the 1/4 track, the car turns off. Luckily I had enough speed to coast to a safe place. I tried to start the car but it wouldnt start. So I turned the key and gave it gas and it started. Everything seemed fine at that point so I took another run about 45min-1hr later. The same thing happened when I let go of the nitrous and stepped on the clutch....engine dies and starts when i give it gas. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON???? Could the engine die because there is too much fuel?
My setup:
98 jdm h22a, NX direct port, MSD digi6+ and SS coil, NGK bkr7e, 91 octane gas, and your basic intake, exhaust, pullies, action 2md clutch, fidanza flywheel.
How do you read my plugs? Some have told me that they are lean because of the electrode, but others have said that it is running rich because of the ring around it.
Please help me read my plugs, but also help me in terms of why my car turns off right after i stop the flow of nitrous. I also noticed that during the second and last nitrous run, that my nitrous didnt turn on in 4th gear. I checked the fuse to see that it was blown (20A).
I just did a compression test:
First test: from cyl 1-4: 190, 197, 200, 207
Second test: from cyl 1-4: 192, 202, 205, 202
Is there any reason to worry about the engine based on those numbers? Car seems to drive just fine, starting up everytime with ease.
So I went to the track, turned on my NX controller, sprayed through 4 gears, then when I let go of the gas and step on the clutch to coast after the 1/4 track, the car turns off. Luckily I had enough speed to coast to a safe place. I tried to start the car but it wouldnt start. So I turned the key and gave it gas and it started. Everything seemed fine at that point so I took another run about 45min-1hr later. The same thing happened when I let go of the nitrous and stepped on the clutch....engine dies and starts when i give it gas. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON???? Could the engine die because there is too much fuel?
My setup:
98 jdm h22a, NX direct port, MSD digi6+ and SS coil, NGK bkr7e, 91 octane gas, and your basic intake, exhaust, pullies, action 2md clutch, fidanza flywheel.
How do you read my plugs? Some have told me that they are lean because of the electrode, but others have said that it is running rich because of the ring around it.
Please help me read my plugs, but also help me in terms of why my car turns off right after i stop the flow of nitrous. I also noticed that during the second and last nitrous run, that my nitrous didnt turn on in 4th gear. I checked the fuse to see that it was blown (20A).
I just did a compression test:
First test: from cyl 1-4: 190, 197, 200, 207
Second test: from cyl 1-4: 192, 202, 205, 202
Is there any reason to worry about the engine based on those numbers? Car seems to drive just fine, starting up everytime with ease.
#2
my thought would be that ur ecu is compensating so much with increased airflow that when u let go of the throttle it cuts too low of a vacume pressure which causes it to die. but i really dont know buddy, hopefully someone else will have more insight
#3
Originally posted by crxb16er
my thought would be that ur ecu is compensating so much with increased airflow that when u let go of the throttle it cuts too low of a vacume pressure which causes it to die. but i really dont know buddy, hopefully someone else will have more insight
my thought would be that ur ecu is compensating so much with increased airflow that when u let go of the throttle it cuts too low of a vacume pressure which causes it to die. but i really dont know buddy, hopefully someone else will have more insight
#4
Originally posted by crxb16er
my thought would be that ur ecu is compensating so much with increased airflow that when u let go of the throttle it cuts too low of a vacume pressure which causes it to die. but i really dont know buddy, hopefully someone else will have more insight
my thought would be that ur ecu is compensating so much with increased airflow that when u let go of the throttle it cuts too low of a vacume pressure which causes it to die. but i really dont know buddy, hopefully someone else will have more insight
What are your guy's first impression of the spark plugs? Lean? Rich? I expected it to be rich because to run 22/18 jets, i needed to be at 10psi, but i was at over 50psi probably. However, my plugs look lean.
#5
Man, I don't think you know what you're talking about. You need to go to a local shop and get a CERTIFIED PROFESSIONAL to look at your stuff. It might cost you, but they could probably identify the problem you're having.
BTW: Your plugs look a little light, maybe not enough fuel. They should be brownish.
BTW: Your plugs look a little light, maybe not enough fuel. They should be brownish.
#6
everybody says that the plugs should always be brown or mocha colored. n2o causes excessive heat in the cylinder and the plugs don't always look brown. after spraying more often than not they look to be a whitish/ greyish color. drive around on them n/a for a good while and then they seem to turn the desired mocha color.
#7
whitish build up on ur plugs is caused by excessive heat, not a huge concern if ur running nitrous, if they look like that after just a little wear it might raise a flag but if those are pretty worn then they look good, no oil build up or corrosion, carbon or ash deposits, or signs of glazing or detonation, my recommendation check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacume leaks, sticking valves and insufficent engine cooling.
#8
as for it cutting off if u dont manage ur own fuel/air ratios and dont use a v-afc, u might want to take it to ur dealer and see what they can do for u. they can rechip ur ecu or provide u with suggests for aftermarket equipment to run ur ecu or fool it into working how u want it
#9
Originally posted by SleeperCivicEX
You're the man, that's exactly my first thought. Try doing a run again, but leave the clutch engaged and just let the car slow down by itself. Take the second turn off the track and save some brakes!
You're the man, that's exactly my first thought. Try doing a run again, but leave the clutch engaged and just let the car slow down by itself. Take the second turn off the track and save some brakes!
#10
i would use this in my rex to make sure it nothing happens but hey its ur car tune it how u want to.
http://www.import-store.com/apexi_vafc.htm
http://www.import-store.com/apexi_vafc.htm