Josher

I've searched and read and read and I still have a few quick questions.

1. My car is a 96 Integra LS. Does it matter that my car is automatic? I am fairly certain that the GSR computer (needed for the VTEC to work) will raise my rev limiter from 6750 to say 7500 or so. And I'm just betting that my LS bottom won't hold up to that. Am I correct? Also, Does it matter what year/model GSR cpu I put in it?

2. I'm currently working out buying a b16 head. Thing is, I know I'll need a different header. And most magazines do headers by car type and year. Is there any way to find out what type of header is needed by the head?
I've been going off this webpage http://www.geocities.com/hondaenthus...nginecodes.htm for engine types. The head I'm getting, all I know is that its a b16.

3. As for this modified harness thats needed. Can I just buy a vtec harness and use that?

preylude99

well the bottom end on a 5spd LS and auto LS is the same isnt it? Its just the tranny thats diff I believe......

-KangaRod-

1) You'll need an automatic ECU. I belive an auto ECU will run a 5 speed car, but not the other way around. I think the fuel cutoff on the GsR is higher than that, and providing you're not revving to eight grand every single day 4 or 5 times, it should be ok if you do it once in a while.
2) You wont need a new header, the Ls one will work. If you do get a new header, get one for a GsR, Type R, or Ls as they all have taller deck heights and a header for a B16 may have some interferience issues. It may fit, and if you have an extra b16 one you might as well see.
3) You can use a VTEC harness, but it wont take much modification to change your harness. I believe there are 3 or 4 extra wires you have to run. there are not too many.

Josher

Thanks, but I've decided not to do the LS VTEC at this time. After doing a lot of research, I've decided that the LS VTEC involves too many other things. For example: I'll want to get a GSR Oil Pump, GSR Water Pump,GSR Timing Belt, Girdle, ARP Rod Bolts, another oil line... and more. I don't want to build a crappy VTEC, nor do I want to ruin my car. Maybe if I can get another engine or something starts to go on my current LS motor, I'll do the LS VTEC. But for now, I'm simply printing out and saving all the information I have and I'll see how much more money I can save. Let's face it, an LS VTEC that costs $1500 is going to lack reliability. IF I'm going to put my car out of commission for a while, I might as well build it right and do the neccessary upgrades. Thanks everyone for replying to my various messages.

sspire

nice choice man LS/VTEC motors ARE terrible in regards to reliablilty with a bad rod/stroke ratio reving much higher than the redline of the stock bottom end puts a lot of stress on the rods, but you probly knew that. but if you didnt there it is. a good reason NOT to do it

doctorsohc

Put a turbo on that thing - don't waste your money on something that needs so much tuning and machine work. 6 psi or so would not be that expensive to do. I know there are probably a few guys out there that would want to argue against this, but I'm just telling you what I found out for myself.

Josher

Any ideas on what brand of turbo or how much that will cost me? Also, aren't turbos bad on the motor - though obviously not as bad as the LSVTEC. Thanks.

doctorsohc

A turbo, if correctly tuned, will give you tons of reliable power as long as you make sure everything stays reasonably cool and there's no detonation in sight. One thing forced induction has over NA is you're building power right from down low, which means RPMs are lower, which also means piston speeds are lower and the bottom end of your motor will live longer. Revving an engine puts a lot of stress on the bottom end - more so than putting a reasonable amount of boost in the lower RPM band. You won't need to rev a LS turbo any more than 5 grand to kick V8 ass! It's all about the torque my friend! Check out the F-Max turbo kits - their really good stuff. If you don't want to shell out that much cash, get a Greddy and start from there. The one weakness I've found with the Greddy is the stock manifold - it tends to crack easily. You can safely run 9 psi on a stock B18b without any worries - again - as long as you tune it ok. Run some Mobil 1 in it too right from the beginning!