'97 Honda ACCORD. I was out this morning and this is the shiit that I witnessed for the first 15 minutes I cranked up my car:

RPM Bounce: 1750 - 2250 for 3 minutes
RPM Bounce: 1500 - 2400 for 2 minutes
RPM Bounce: 1250 - 2250 for 1 minute
RPM Bounce: 1250 - 2000 for 1 minute
RPM Bounce: 1150 - 1850 for 1 minute
RPM Bounce: 1150 - 1750 for 5 minutes before I got tired of waiting and pulled off.

I removed the IAC from behind the intake manifold and cleaned the gunk off the netting on the left hole of the IAC. I also sprayed some chem-tool into the right hole of the IAC and blew out the debris with a can of compressed air. I put the thing back on and there was no change.

While the IAC valve was out, I noticed a 5 point "adjuster" on the left side of the IAC (passenger side). I miss took it for a hex wrench hole, but the 6-point hex key wouldn't work. I went to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Sears, and Home Depot trying to find something to work there. Well, I was able to find hex bits (6-point) and square recesses (4-point), but NO 5-POINT bits!

Is that 5 point thing an adjuster? Does Honda use a special tool for adjusting/resetting it? My buddy says GM's have a spindle thing that needs to be pushed in or something and then let the computer reset itself to the new spindle position or something. But does my IAC work the same way?

The part is only a moderate cost of $71 from NAPA or Autozone or Advance Auto. But if there is a way to adjust it, then I'd feel much more confident in my "reliable accord" if it just needs an IAC Valve adjustment every so often.

I mean, I am at 171k miles. But that's beside the point. HONDA's supposed to be the kind of vehicle that you "put gas and oil in and you'll be fine."

 

I don't think they're meant to be adjusted. Are you sure you don't have air in your coolant or a vac leak? If it's neither of those, then you may have to replace the IACV.

 

i'm not sure. now there's an Engine Coolant Temperature sensor that my buddy's been after me for about 3 months about changing. says that with 170k miles, it wouldn't be a bad idea.

but that wouldn't have anything to do with that, would it?

well, when I disconnect the hoses to the IAC valve, coolant mix does come out of them--moreso out of the passenger side hose rather than the driver's side hose on the IAC valve.

haven't checked for vac leaks, either. I'm gonna try to figure out what's going on with the other parts of the air/fuel system to see if they just need some attention before I go ORDERING that part.

 

I would bleed your cooling system and check for vac leaks before you go ordering a new IACV, since they're pretty costly.

 

do you just loosen the air bleed bolt atop the thermostat? maybe that or do I squeeze hoses with the radiator cap off?

 

You could try the bleeder bolt. My engine doesn't have one, so I just run my engine with the radiator cap loose or off and the heater blasting full-hot. You can squeeze the radiator hoses while you're at it to help coax out any bubbles that may be hung up in them.

 

dood, it sounds to me as if you've got a air "bubble" pocket in your cooling system.
their should be a 'Burp' valve somewhere proximal to the motor
that shoul help you to expel this gnarly little bastard....

 

Fast Idle Thermo Valve

$52.13 from majestic honda. (about $70 from nearest dealer)

basically, the valve is on the throttle body. it's supposed to open to suck in more air for the car on cold starts. but it's supposed to close once care reaches normal operating temperature. took of the intake air duct to the intake manifold and found out that the valve was continuously sucking in air. i covered up the hole, and the engine returned to normal idle.