Non-starter after timing belt job
03-24-2003, 12:43 PM
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Non-starter after timing belt job
Finally got this Accord motor put mostly back together.
Aligned all timing marks, confirmed rear balance shaft at proper orientation, put on timing belt, put on balance belt, spun the crank pulley about 30 degrees counterclockwise to tension, tightened the tensioner bolt, checked belt deflection, confirmed timing marks again, A-OK.
With plugs out, spun the crank CCW a few times. Noticed some mild resistance, but nothing I couldn't overcome with just bare hands on the crank pulley. Figured this was at points where pairs of springs were compressing and fighting back.
Returned crank to TDC on #1, visually confirmed piston at top via spark aperture, confirmed follower positions on cam, checked valves, they were tight, adjusted to spec. Spun to TDC on #3, same thing, likewise #4 and #2. Valve cover on and torqued to spec.
Oil OK. Coolant OK. Rear balance shaft holder removed. Distributor cap back on.
Time to try a test start. I have not yet hooked up the alternator belt -- I wanted to make sure this thing will turn over right, before I put the belt covers and the accessory drives back on.
Disconnected the coil from the dist. Test by goosing starter. Starter turns over slightly and then just stops and buzzes.
Hmmmmm. Connect coil wire. Try again. Starter now won't even turn over the engine, just buzzes some more.
Having thoughts here about valves wedged against pistons. Nasty. But everything checked out OK when I inspected the valve clearances.
Am I just short on electrical juice here? I've got another vehicle that I can jump-start from.
Or does it sound like something is mechanically blocked in the engine? If that's true, adding more power for the starter would be a bad day.
Aligned all timing marks, confirmed rear balance shaft at proper orientation, put on timing belt, put on balance belt, spun the crank pulley about 30 degrees counterclockwise to tension, tightened the tensioner bolt, checked belt deflection, confirmed timing marks again, A-OK.
With plugs out, spun the crank CCW a few times. Noticed some mild resistance, but nothing I couldn't overcome with just bare hands on the crank pulley. Figured this was at points where pairs of springs were compressing and fighting back.
Returned crank to TDC on #1, visually confirmed piston at top via spark aperture, confirmed follower positions on cam, checked valves, they were tight, adjusted to spec. Spun to TDC on #3, same thing, likewise #4 and #2. Valve cover on and torqued to spec.
Oil OK. Coolant OK. Rear balance shaft holder removed. Distributor cap back on.
Time to try a test start. I have not yet hooked up the alternator belt -- I wanted to make sure this thing will turn over right, before I put the belt covers and the accessory drives back on.
Disconnected the coil from the dist. Test by goosing starter. Starter turns over slightly and then just stops and buzzes.
Hmmmmm. Connect coil wire. Try again. Starter now won't even turn over the engine, just buzzes some more.
Having thoughts here about valves wedged against pistons. Nasty. But everything checked out OK when I inspected the valve clearances.
Am I just short on electrical juice here? I've got another vehicle that I can jump-start from.
Or does it sound like something is mechanically blocked in the engine? If that's true, adding more power for the starter would be a bad day.
03-24-2003, 03:37 PM
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Never mind. Nailed it. Just not enough beans in the battery.
Checked everything with super rigor one more time, jumped it from another running car, and it fired right up. Seems perfect.
Checked everything with super rigor one more time, jumped it from another running car, and it fired right up. Seems perfect.
