B20Z /w B16a head - ALL stock, Reliable if only revving to 7kRPM?
#1
B20Z /w B16a head - ALL stock, Reliable if only revving to 7kRPM?
Hey, I'm thinking about putting together a b20 vtec... I was originally gonna just do a b16a swap like my integra has, but for only $800 or so more, I can get a B20Z long block and the oil line stuff I need. Anyway, I've been reading a little about a b20z and how it starts to lose a lot of power around 6k rpm and on...
If I put a stock b16a head on the stock b20z block, and just rev to 7k most of the time will it be pretty reliable? Any worries? I mean the bottom b20z block can do 7k stock, so why not with a vtec head right?
I mean I know if I go to 8, I can make more power, but just to be safe, I only want to rev to 7k (maybe 8k on the tracks only).
I'll still be making more power than a stock b20z right (especially around 5-7k RPM? Where the stock b20z will start to lose power, I'll still be making power... Right??
If it matters, I also have a Type R Intake manifold and a JDM 4-1 Type R exhaust manifold that I will be using...
My friend has a pretty much stock internal b20 vtec and it's reliable (he prolly had it for a year or so now), but I just want to ask other ppl to get more experiences...
Anyway, will I really need to spend another $100 on ARP head bolts if I plan on just going to 7k and maybe 8k at the tracks or maybe once every few months? hehehe...
If I put a stock b16a head on the stock b20z block, and just rev to 7k most of the time will it be pretty reliable? Any worries? I mean the bottom b20z block can do 7k stock, so why not with a vtec head right?
I mean I know if I go to 8, I can make more power, but just to be safe, I only want to rev to 7k (maybe 8k on the tracks only).
I'll still be making more power than a stock b20z right (especially around 5-7k RPM? Where the stock b20z will start to lose power, I'll still be making power... Right??
If it matters, I also have a Type R Intake manifold and a JDM 4-1 Type R exhaust manifold that I will be using...
My friend has a pretty much stock internal b20 vtec and it's reliable (he prolly had it for a year or so now), but I just want to ask other ppl to get more experiences...
Anyway, will I really need to spend another $100 on ARP head bolts if I plan on just going to 7k and maybe 8k at the tracks or maybe once every few months? hehehe...
#2
GWAKS- Tech Geekifier
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The head studs aren't your concern, the rod bolts will be. If you don't redline the engine and abuse it every time you drive, the engine should hold up fine.
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CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
#3
のんびり~(´ε`)
You're not going to be able to run stock B20 pistons, sicne they don't have the valve reliefs for VTEC valves. You'll need some 84mm VTEC pistons. That'll add about $400 to your cost.
#5
Originally posted by inspyral
You're not going to be able to run stock B20 pistons, sicne they don't have the valve reliefs for VTEC valves. You'll need some 84mm VTEC pistons. That'll add about $400 to your cost.
You're not going to be able to run stock B20 pistons, sicne they don't have the valve reliefs for VTEC valves. You'll need some 84mm VTEC pistons. That'll add about $400 to your cost.
The B20 bottom-end uses the same rod bolts and the LS', and the LS' use rod bolts that suck. ARP's are your friend.
#6
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A girdle is your best friend along with arp's. If you girdle the crank it will help you rev to the 8-9k prob with no problems(if you manage to make power that High)use the gsr girdle and have them dowelled into place. You will also need the gsr windage tray and the pickup tube. actual machine work labor will prob hit you up around 200bucks. Thats what my guy charges. plus parts of course. the it will almost be as reliable as a gsr bottom end only without the oil squirters.
good luck and do it right!! you will be happier in the long run.
good luck and do it right!! you will be happier in the long run.
#7
のんびり~(´ε`)
Hybrid Garage has a new girdle out that includes dowels, covers all 5 mains, and looks very sturdy:
http://store.hybridgarage.com/pics/TeamHGR-girdle/
Retail Price $539.99
Introductory Offer $499.99 with FREE SHIPPING!
Wholesale/dealer inquiries are welcome!
02/05 -- We reduced the price to $389.99... read below
No drilling is required, everything is bolt-on, including dowels.
By the way, this only applies to B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B20B, and B20Z -- You will have to run a GSR oil pan and windage tray for clearance. You also need a GSR oil pickup.
http://store.hybridgarage.com/pics/TeamHGR-girdle/
Retail Price $539.99
Introductory Offer $499.99 with FREE SHIPPING!
Wholesale/dealer inquiries are welcome!
02/05 -- We reduced the price to $389.99... read below
No drilling is required, everything is bolt-on, including dowels.
By the way, this only applies to B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B20B, and B20Z -- You will have to run a GSR oil pan and windage tray for clearance. You also need a GSR oil pickup.
#8
Balls or just crazy...
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First hand experience:
JDM B20b bottomend... stock
JDM B16a head ... stock w/ Skunk2 cam gears +2 & -1
ARP bolts
The engine has about 29k on it. About 1/4 of those miles are race miles. Drag strip, road course, & the streets of the East Coast.
I have been to the dyno several times w/ this engine & datalog everytime I race. When on the road course, I usually put my redline btwn 8100 & 8300 depending on where I need to shift.
On the dragstrip, I shift @ 7700 rpms from 1st-2nd... shows better times. Also, I shift @ 8200 from 2-3 & 3-4 as those net me the best times & you can see it in the engine speed on the datalog.
Any questions??
Pete
JDM B20b bottomend... stock
JDM B16a head ... stock w/ Skunk2 cam gears +2 & -1
ARP bolts
The engine has about 29k on it. About 1/4 of those miles are race miles. Drag strip, road course, & the streets of the East Coast.
I have been to the dyno several times w/ this engine & datalog everytime I race. When on the road course, I usually put my redline btwn 8100 & 8300 depending on where I need to shift.
On the dragstrip, I shift @ 7700 rpms from 1st-2nd... shows better times. Also, I shift @ 8200 from 2-3 & 3-4 as those net me the best times & you can see it in the engine speed on the datalog.
Any questions??
Pete
#9
thank u... more 1st hand experiences please. None of that "i think you will be fine" or "spend more money and get it done right" stuff. I just want to know if anyone with this setup has had major problems... Because my friend has it stock and it's been running good for 1.5 years...
If more ppl like Trickturn can show similiar results as my friend, then I will take it my friend isn't just "lucky"
If more ppl like Trickturn can show similiar results as my friend, then I will take it my friend isn't just "lucky"
#10
Originally posted by Tr0LL
None of that "i think you will be fine" or "spend more money and get it done right" stuff.
None of that "i think you will be fine" or "spend more money and get it done right" stuff.