Notices
Engine Swaps, Tech & Tuning Swaps, N/A Performance, Forced Induction, Engine Management, & Troubleshooting

B20Z /w B16a head - ALL stock, Reliable if only revving to 7kRPM?

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-02-2003, 03:29 AM
  #1  
Tr0LL
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Tr0LL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default B20Z /w B16a head - ALL stock, Reliable if only revving to 7kRPM?

Hey, I'm thinking about putting together a b20 vtec... I was originally gonna just do a b16a swap like my integra has, but for only $800 or so more, I can get a B20Z long block and the oil line stuff I need. Anyway, I've been reading a little about a b20z and how it starts to lose a lot of power around 6k rpm and on...

If I put a stock b16a head on the stock b20z block, and just rev to 7k most of the time will it be pretty reliable? Any worries? I mean the bottom b20z block can do 7k stock, so why not with a vtec head right?

I mean I know if I go to 8, I can make more power, but just to be safe, I only want to rev to 7k (maybe 8k on the tracks only).
I'll still be making more power than a stock b20z right (especially around 5-7k RPM? Where the stock b20z will start to lose power, I'll still be making power... Right??

If it matters, I also have a Type R Intake manifold and a JDM 4-1 Type R exhaust manifold that I will be using...

My friend has a pretty much stock internal b20 vtec and it's reliable (he prolly had it for a year or so now), but I just want to ask other ppl to get more experiences...

Anyway, will I really need to spend another $100 on ARP head bolts if I plan on just going to 7k and maybe 8k at the tracks or maybe once every few months? hehehe...
Tr0LL is offline  
Old 03-02-2003, 04:45 AM
  #2  
1stGenCRXer
GWAKS- Tech Geekifier
 
1stGenCRXer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The head studs aren't your concern, the rod bolts will be. If you don't redline the engine and abuse it every time you drive, the engine should hold up fine.
__________________
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
1stGenCRXer is offline  
Old 03-02-2003, 12:08 PM
  #3  
inspyral
のんびり~(´ε`)
 
inspyral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: San Jo, Cali
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You're not going to be able to run stock B20 pistons, sicne they don't have the valve reliefs for VTEC valves. You'll need some 84mm VTEC pistons. That'll add about $400 to your cost.
inspyral is offline  
Old 03-02-2003, 01:25 PM
  #4  
Tr0LL
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Tr0LL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i can always modify them right? and that will be free? hehehe...

my friend never had to do his..... anyone with actual experience?
Tr0LL is offline  
Old 03-02-2003, 07:12 PM
  #5  
Speed Phreak
Turbomafia
 
Speed Phreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by inspyral
You're not going to be able to run stock B20 pistons, sicne they don't have the valve reliefs for VTEC valves. You'll need some 84mm VTEC pistons. That'll add about $400 to your cost.
Not *NEEDED* but it's a good safety margin. The B20 pistons have valve reliefs size for non-VTEC valves. It's not a major problem with 1stgen b16a cams, since they have a bit less lift/duration than the other VTEC cams. I'd worry if you have ITR or aftermarket cams. Also, don't dick with the cam timing. You can always clay your engine just to be sure.

The B20 bottom-end uses the same rod bolts and the LS', and the LS' use rod bolts that suck. ARP's are your friend.
Speed Phreak is offline  
Old 03-04-2003, 03:51 PM
  #6  
jfdmas
Senior Member
 
jfdmas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: buffalo ny
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A girdle is your best friend along with arp's. If you girdle the crank it will help you rev to the 8-9k prob with no problems(if you manage to make power that High)use the gsr girdle and have them dowelled into place. You will also need the gsr windage tray and the pickup tube. actual machine work labor will prob hit you up around 200bucks. Thats what my guy charges. plus parts of course. the it will almost be as reliable as a gsr bottom end only without the oil squirters.

good luck and do it right!! you will be happier in the long run.
jfdmas is offline  
Old 03-04-2003, 05:10 PM
  #7  
inspyral
のんびり~(´ε`)
 
inspyral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: San Jo, Cali
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Hybrid Garage has a new girdle out that includes dowels, covers all 5 mains, and looks very sturdy:



http://store.hybridgarage.com/pics/TeamHGR-girdle/

Retail Price $539.99
Introductory Offer $499.99 with FREE SHIPPING!
Wholesale/dealer inquiries are welcome!

02/05 -- We reduced the price to $389.99... read below
No drilling is required, everything is bolt-on, including dowels.
By the way, this only applies to B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B20B, and B20Z -- You will have to run a GSR oil pan and windage tray for clearance. You also need a GSR oil pickup.
inspyral is offline  
Old 03-05-2003, 10:53 PM
  #8  
Trickturn
Balls or just crazy...
 
Trickturn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: North Cakolaky
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

First hand experience:

JDM B20b bottomend... stock
JDM B16a head ... stock w/ Skunk2 cam gears +2 & -1
ARP bolts

The engine has about 29k on it. About 1/4 of those miles are race miles. Drag strip, road course, & the streets of the East Coast.

I have been to the dyno several times w/ this engine & datalog everytime I race. When on the road course, I usually put my redline btwn 8100 & 8300 depending on where I need to shift.
On the dragstrip, I shift @ 7700 rpms from 1st-2nd... shows better times. Also, I shift @ 8200 from 2-3 & 3-4 as those net me the best times & you can see it in the engine speed on the datalog.

Any questions??

Pete
Trickturn is offline  
Old 03-06-2003, 12:15 AM
  #9  
Tr0LL
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Tr0LL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thank u... more 1st hand experiences please. None of that "i think you will be fine" or "spend more money and get it done right" stuff. I just want to know if anyone with this setup has had major problems... Because my friend has it stock and it's been running good for 1.5 years...

If more ppl like Trickturn can show similiar results as my friend, then I will take it my friend isn't just "lucky"
Tr0LL is offline  
Old 03-06-2003, 07:18 AM
  #10  
Speed Phreak
Turbomafia
 
Speed Phreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by Tr0LL
None of that "i think you will be fine" or "spend more money and get it done right" stuff.
Don't be a dick, people are trying to help you. Next time you want help, some of us won't be so willing to offer up insight/tips from knowledge and experience. Just take the info and store it.
Speed Phreak is offline  



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:29 PM.