MrFatbooty

So yeah, he's gonna do the wiring. He knows (or at least seems to) what he's doing. Stop raggin on the technical aspects, especially those of you who are very habitually wrong--not gonna name names--on matters like this.

If you buy a "complete swap" a hydro setup will generally be about a grand more than the cable. Of course, the gearing on the hydro B16 trans is not that much different from the cable and definately not as tall as the GSR trans. Add the cost of an OBD-1 ECU and a hydro-cable conversion kit to the 1st gen swap and you still haven't matched the price of the hydro swap. Of course the hydro swap is guaranteed to be a newer motor so that's another thing.

Dubster your LS has "never lost to an Si" because you're talking about racing stoplight-to-stoplight. All the VTEC B-series motors walk in 3rd gear, everyone knows that.

Of course in the original post, saying "don't bug me about xxxx..." is a sure invitation to have people bug you about it.

Now everybody shut up if you don't know how to make the mechanical VSS work with an ECU which wants to see an electical VSS signal.

dubcac

Thanks for reading into my post that I was just talking about stoplight to stoplight, which I wasn't. All I'm saying is the first gen b16 is more hassel than it will be worth in the end.

sir_crx

-Of course in the original post, saying "don't bug me about xxxx..." is a sure invitation to have people bug you about it.
My own problem, understood
The reason it's cheaper is the ONLY parts I'm buying is the cable conversion, I have everything else...I chip ecus and have one laying around, also have an obd 1 dist...I don't understand why everyone is making a big deal out of how hard it is, I mean really, change the damn dist., reharness the engine (got to anyways JDM) and plug an ecu in...WOW I broke a sweat.
I wasn't think about the speedo, more I thought about it, I've got a few just sitting around, I should be able to unplug it and plug the another one in.
So basically I spent $1500 on a swap for my car, I am not a huge fan of an LS engine, dubster99 "I" am a good driver. A B16A is a drivers engine, a little torque goes a long way, but the B16A is a great platform. Ever hear LS drivers say they've ran a 14 w/ maybe and intake and exhaust only? No. I have seen Si s run 14.7-14.9 w/ an intake and no muffler, I believe you beat a lot of Sis, I don't believe you raced an equally competent driver...
I had a CRX Si...it's a little heavier than a CX.
I'm not into 1/8, I like the 1/4 but am looking into maybe autocross occasionally, w/ a SC and this setup I should be very competitive.
BTW, swaps are very easy, some people blow them up to be hard, they aren't. You just have to think about the process.
-If you're really hot & bothered for this engine... here's my advice. Put the head and the trans on your engine and sell the block. This has a number of advantages. You'll be working with a block with less milage, more displacement, the low gear ratios of the 1st gen, and added displacement. Not to mention that wiring will become rather simple by comparison.
I am not into the LS/VTEC fad yet...seen too many bent rods and cracked blocks, I'd rather buy a 2.0L stroker kit for a B16A, still have that beautiful r/s ratio and lie to everyone before I raced," Ugh, yeah, it's JUST a B16A, real slow let me tell you, Probably should kept me LS engine."
Sidenote, my fastest car had an LS in it, may have been accompanied by a 65 shot, but it WAS my fastest to date.

dubcac

Where do you find these 14 sec bolt on SI drivers? I've never seen one break 15.4 at the track, but then again most people can't get an LS into the 15's, crappy drivers everywhere. Do the crower stroker kits allow you to retain the same r/s ratio? I haven't heard much about them. As for your swap, the only real pain in the ass is converting to cable. After all, you can always throw in a GSR block later, stroke that to 2.1L . Good luck bro.

qtiger

Like I said, you need a $250 adapter kit to use the engine.

I figured that into my numbers.



STROKEr kit, aka gives you a MUCH longer stroke in order to increase displacement. Call Crower up and ask them what the R/S ratio is on their kit. I guarantee its lower than your LS engine. If you used your LS engine, you could just have it resleeved and use larger pistons. Cheaper and more effective.

sir_crx

-#3: Your CRX was lighter than the CX. Your GSR is 700 pounds heavier than your CRX... which means you'll be nearly a FULL SECOND SLOWER than the CRX was.
-Originally posted by sir_crx
I had a CRX Si...it's a little heavier than a CX.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I figured that into my numbers.
This is what you said earlier, that my crx was lighter when in fact it's not, you make it sound that that might have been the only reason I beat him...that's why I posted "I had a CRX Si...it's a little heavier than a CX.
"

I wasn't dealing w/ crower, it was another company that would increase the r/s but not by much, it would be the same or less than a gsr, I'll try to get numbers, but that would make me feel much more comfortable revving that to 8500 than an LS/VTEC, which may take, I'm adding my own personal opinion, we all know opinions are like assholes, everybodys got one.

sir_crx

Did a search, brought some ammo...
Some people have questioned WHY I am putting a 1st g B16A w/ cable tranny in my 98 Teg...
1. Who here thinks a stock type r is "fairly" fast? I have heard people rant and rave as to how fast an R is and whatnot...
2. 00 Type R dyno 163 hp 116 ft.lbs stock. It takes this to make it this fast, what??? 14.6 in the 1/4 stock???
3. 1st g B16A w/ i/h/e CTR cams & valvetrain, ported and polished head, milled .040, stock bottom end, apexi vafc, chipped P28 dyno= 189 hp 113 ft.lbs
Now, it's obvious HOW MUCH faster the B16A in the Teg "should" be than the R, but the true q is, why does everyone hate on the B16A so much. Are these #s not impressive? I'm not saying that I'm going to build my B16A up like this but am considering an all motor build up. I'm looking for 200 hp on the stock bottom-end, it appears that I can do it, just takes some big cams and great headwork. I'm still open to boost, but I "respect" all motor a little more, allthough the ONLY way to go nowadays is a little boost.
Is anyone having problems running big VTEC cams and some juice? I'd be interested in only a 55-65 shot at the most. Even if I go w/ a large set of cams, N2O is basically a diffinate gain...am I correct in assuming this? I mean, big cams and FI (turbo/sc) do not like each other, but what about big cams and N2O, obviously fuel and ALL things would be upgraded to spec...soooo NE feedback?

dubcac

Check your post in the integra forum.

qtiger

Look at those dynos again. Look at how flat the torque curve is on the b18.

Now look at how flat the torque curve is on the b16.

Peak horsepower and torque numbers don't mean jack diddly squat.

dubcac

:werd:

And how many other times have you seen a b16 with bolt ons and CTR cams make 190 whp? Try more like 160 or so for the most part.