ok my friend sucked water into his cold air intake and i guess "hydrolocked" his motor... he got a new one and just gave the old d16y8 to me.. its complete minus a VTEC solenoid that i let a friend have.. my question is, what do i need to do to get that motor running again... i want to boost it, so if someone can tell me what i need to do it would help a ton.. thanks:thumbup:

-jp

 

You need to open it up and see what it looks like inside. My guess is there are at least some bent valves.

 

we tried to turn the crank once we got it out of the car... it turns about a 1/8-1/4 turn each direction, then you cant go any farther..

i thought maybe that would help??? i just wanna see if i can turn this f'ed up motor into something useful...

-jp

 

Every 1/4 turn opens a new set of valves and therefore it becomes much much harder to turn. Did you drain all of the water out of the cylinders? Did you take the oil pan off to find out if the connecting rods are still straight?

 

no i havent even begun to take it apart... so what all should i look for when i crack it apart? thanks guys

-jp

 

Basically check that everything is straight, valves and connecting rods especially. I say take off the head (1 or 2 hour job tops, even for your first time) and see what you see. If things still look decent, then take off the oil pan (15 minutes max) and check the bottom end.

 

check for bent rods
i got a d15b7 with 4 bent rods, it will turn about 1/4 turn either way before stopping...it was hydrolocked as well.

 

ok, we disassembled the engine this morning... here is what we found:

1. #1 connecting rod snapped in half...
2. small hole on "oil pan feed tubing"?? around #1 cylinder pos.
3. small chips and cracks inside the block (not comb. chamber) where the broken rod slapped against the motor walls.

we took all the pistons and rods out, and i took the head off and checked it out. everything on it seems to be ok.. the valves could prolly use replacing anyways. so i took the head to a machine shop here and asked them how much to port and polish and 3-angle valve job. he told me he couldnt P&P but he could 3 angle it for $100...what do you guys think is this worth it? also, about how much would a P&P run me? thanks for any help and advice...

-jp

p.s. first time takin one apart, hell first time messin with one period other than just putting it in a car. i had a good time doing it and i learned a little bit.. good experience at the least

 

You never learn so much as when you're taking apart something you (or someone else) broke. Breaking something is also the PERFECT time to upgrade.

 

Even if it looks like the cylinder walls are ok, you might want to get them honed just to be sure.

Typical headwork, including porting, "polishing", valvejob, lapping ported surfaces, decking, etc runs anywhere from about $800-up. The price goes up if any valvetrain parts are replaced/upgraaded.