ls vtech build
#31
well i been niulding motor and racing 4 about 8 years, in my opinion, use the gs-r head, the b16 may flow better, but the gs-r has a tighter chamber, u can get the gs-r ported, so then u will have high compression and a better flow easy and simple, but on my side of the story i use non-vtec heads, bc i do my own porting, and use custom grind camshafts so really no need for me to use a vtec head, vtec is great out the box, but i can go to the junk yard and get a b18a for $250 and turn 250hp and 200lbs/ft of tq and spin to 8500rpm i dont need to but it can i use it at 7500rpm, but its all into what u plan on using it for and what u want
#33
well they would have a code number on it, like p72 or something liek that, im not really sure on alot of the heads, i normally use the non-vtec versions bc of the power and torque number i get out of them, i use mid flow to make power rather than high lift, when u got mid flow u it responds more, so its more on focus to the mid range a lil more than the high end
torque accelerates u, horse power is a math problem, and it only supply mph
and rule of thumb, horse power dpnt get u down the track quicker
torque accelerates u, horse power is a math problem, and it only supply mph
and rule of thumb, horse power dpnt get u down the track quicker
#34
Originally Posted by primetime
The b16 head is better IF you plan on running a turbo because the head has better flow. BUT the b18c1 head is better if you plan on going all motor. gsr heads produce higher CP and are hondata compatible if you are using an obd1 computer. oh and you can rev to 8000rpm's with a b18a/b if you change the all of the bearings in the bottom end to gsr bearings!!! the bearing fit perfectly, no machining is required!!
Originally Posted by mberndt
Girdles are only needed on GSR and ITR motors, or on LS/VTEC motors (these need girdles because of the even longer rods in the B18A/B) because of the rod/stroke ratio. The rods are longer, hence more material, and they have a larger moment of inertia... This is why B16 blocks do not have them, nor do they need them.
As for heads, GSR has less volume, hence will gove more compression. The B16 heads "flow better" because of the intake ports. On the GSR they are slightly different to accommodate the variable length intake manifold.
Work on any head is only good for top-end power, who cares if u can get an extra 10 hp on top end (7600-8000) if you lose power lower in the RPM band.
And as for the pistons limiting the redline, this is incorrect. Pistons simply transfer the power to the rods, the rods are what rotate, hence they have a larger moment of inertia, aka once moving they are harder to stop, remember physics class??
As for tuning with a vafc, good luck... someone already said that it has no spark control, and I totoally agree. For the same price as a VAFC ($200+) you could get an eeprom programmer and use uberdata or the like.
As for B18hatch, I would go with whatever is cheaper, however, the differences are slight, and if your going all motor a GSR will yield a higher C/R.
In addition, GSR heads are said to have better cams, although this is also not reeally important unless you are really going to build the motor for all-motor use.
But I would say one additional thing, the VTEC motors are ENGINEERED to rev-high and the non-vtec motors are not, so take care in revving them too high, or you might end up with a rod shooting out of your block .
As for heads, GSR has less volume, hence will gove more compression. The B16 heads "flow better" because of the intake ports. On the GSR they are slightly different to accommodate the variable length intake manifold.
Work on any head is only good for top-end power, who cares if u can get an extra 10 hp on top end (7600-8000) if you lose power lower in the RPM band.
And as for the pistons limiting the redline, this is incorrect. Pistons simply transfer the power to the rods, the rods are what rotate, hence they have a larger moment of inertia, aka once moving they are harder to stop, remember physics class??
As for tuning with a vafc, good luck... someone already said that it has no spark control, and I totoally agree. For the same price as a VAFC ($200+) you could get an eeprom programmer and use uberdata or the like.
As for B18hatch, I would go with whatever is cheaper, however, the differences are slight, and if your going all motor a GSR will yield a higher C/R.
In addition, GSR heads are said to have better cams, although this is also not reeally important unless you are really going to build the motor for all-motor use.
But I would say one additional thing, the VTEC motors are ENGINEERED to rev-high and the non-vtec motors are not, so take care in revving them too high, or you might end up with a rod shooting out of your block .
You guys both believe the misconception that the B16 head flows better. It does not. I'll once again post the chart of the flowbench numbers of a stock B16 head vs a stock GSR head.
Notice that the heads flow almost identically...but the GSR flows slightly better at low valve lift, and full valve lift...where the B16 flows slighly better at the moderate valve lifts.
Hands down, the GSR will make more power.
#35
Originally Posted by dubcac
You guys both believe the misconception that the B16 head flows better. It does not. I'll once again post the chart of the flowbench numbers of a stock B16 head vs a stock GSR head.
Notice that the heads flow almost identically...but the GSR flows slightly better at low valve lift, and full valve lift...where the B16 flows slighly better at the moderate valve lifts.
Hands down, the GSR will make more power.
Notice that the heads flow almost identically...but the GSR flows slightly better at low valve lift, and full valve lift...where the B16 flows slighly better at the moderate valve lifts.
Hands down, the GSR will make more power.
#36
i'm having trouble with my ls vtech i just got it and the person i bought it from blew 2 blocks with the head and i just blew one and my thoughts are that the oil is ran to the vtech wrong and i was wondering if i could get some help it a stock b18b and a b16 head so i just want to know how to stop it from blowing blocks
#38
i'm having trouble with my ls vtech i just got it and the person i bought it from blew 2 blocks with the head and i just blew one and my thoughts are that the oil is ran to the vtech wrong and i was wondering if i could get some help it a stock b18b and a b16 head so i just want to know how to stop it from blowing blocks
#39
What exactly do you mean by "Blowing Blocks?" Have you spun a bearing, deprived something of oil, broke a rod, detonated, etc???
If you want to stick with an LS-Vtec setup, either buy aftermarket rods rods or have OEM fitted with ARP rod bolts. This will enable you to rev as high as power is made.
For a trouble free remedy, build a GSR block this time.
If you want to stick with an LS-Vtec setup, either buy aftermarket rods rods or have OEM fitted with ARP rod bolts. This will enable you to rev as high as power is made.
For a trouble free remedy, build a GSR block this time.