hey whats up everyone?, i got a 1990 acura integra ls non-vtec and i want to do an engine swap on it, just wondering if any of you had any dea of what a good engine would be to put in it with regards to most horsepower and reliability? and how much can i expect to pay? all input welcomee, thanksss..sorry if theres other posts liek this im new to these forums..peacee

 

b18c1, also known as a gsr motor or an inport sir-g motor

 

B20z/B18C1

 

thanks for the repliesss, just got a few questions about that..isnt that engine a vtec? if so then what work is involved in switching from non-vted to vtec?

 

uhm im not good at this but u have ot wire up ur vtec 2 or 3 wires from the solinoid to the ecu

 

I also have a '90 teg going for motor swap. If you want 0 headaches, do a b20 - the b20z being the best, but most expensive. It's a direct drop-in, if you make sure it's obd0. Get the ecu, too. It plugs right in - no joke. Your other easy options..

1. b16a or b18c with a pr3 or pw0 ecu: To do this, you will need to run 4 wires into the engine bay - knock sensor and three vtec wires. Aside from that, total drag and drop operation. google "integra xsi" and you'll see why.
2. ls/vtec: This setup is almost the same as the first, but there is the issue of the knock sensor. Either, you need to find a blank spot in the block, drill and tap to instert one.. or you need to disable it. This is easy with hondata systems, but hondata is obd1 only. Since we're obd0, you would need a chipped ecu with disabled knock sensor. This is not all that tough. If you want, visit moates.net and get an ecu chipped for yourself. You can send them your ecu (pr4 obd0 - don't get confused.. there is a pr4 obd1, as well) and let them know you want it converted to vtec (yes, they can do that) and chipped with a pr3 bin flashed onto it. This also involves some machining of the head OR a vtec conversion kit from golden eagle manufacturing. Then, you need to find a complete b series vtec head (b16, b17, b18c) and pw0 or pr3 ecu and strap it on.
3. If you're REALLY ambitious, you could do an h22a swap, but that involves an obd1 conversion and lots of cash spent on hondata or place racing mounts.

That rounds it out, essentially. In my opinion, the b20 is NOT the way to go, as it's a lot of work for ~15 horsepower. For the same ammount of work, plus running 4 wires, you get so much more. Keep in mind, though, option 1 will net you between 160 and 200 hp to the crank depending on how much money you want to drop. Option 2 gets you 200-225 at the crank due to the magical combination of the ls block's sick torque plus the upper rpm muscle of a vtec head. Just don't run too hot for too long, as the b18a block has no oil squirters inside like a vtec block. Option 3 is an advanced swap. Personally, I'm going for option 2. Hope this all helps.

 

im liking the sounds of option 2, what would you recomend personally for the knock sensor? would it be better to disable it or to drill a hole in the block? i dont know if its a good idea to run without one or not..also what engine is it your talkign about for all this? the b18 or b20?

 

dont do option 2, unless you know exactly what you are doing.

just get the b18c1, it will be less headaches and less expense.

 

hate to say it, but if this is your first time doing a swap or intense engine work, don't do option 2. I've swapped a b18a into a 4th gen civic hatch (which is considered an 'easy swap') and it was rough. The wiring alone took almost two years - due to my buddy cutting my stock civic wiring harness off. Option 2 is a bit of a reach for me, even, but this time, I've done 3 years of homework. Unless you want to kiss your car goodbye for an extended period of time, I'd say the b20 or option 1 are your best bets. And even still.. make sure you've got a few buddies to help you out. My best piece of advice with whatever you do.. do NOT cut your harness out with the stock engine. You need every wire in there. Making a new wiring harness from the shop manuals for two different cars sucks ass.

To answer your question, though, I'd say to go with the ecu magic for the knock sensor. Personally, I'm not drilling my block unless someone's willing to give me another one for free. Maybe next frankenstein swap.

 

yeh thats true i dotn need to many headaches i dont think it will be that big of a deal woith the swap itself since my dad has done many engine swaps on his life..the only thing im worried about is wiring the vtec wires form the ecu to the engine..how difficult is that? and how much of a horsepower gain am i looking at here for this first option? also what do i do with the knock sensor if i decide to go with the b18c or b20?