itechengineers

hello everyone, i need ASAP help on this swap, please read the folloing thread=

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=126266

Andy

How much work is it to copy and paste the content of the post from the other forum? Sorry, that just bothers me.

I wasn't aware the Y8 had a knock sensor (I'l have to look closer next time I'm under mine) but if that's the case, your going to have to install it somehow. You may be able to simply insulate it somehow and attach it to the block. I do not think you can simply ground it out, you'll most likely get a CEL from a bad/missing sensor. Hopefully if it's insulated enough, it will simply think it's functioning properly and not seeing any detonation. It also won't protect you if you experience some though, but it doesn't sound like he's going to highly modify his engine, so that should be a minor issue.

As for the CFK (crank fluculation sensor), and OBD II computer needs this. I'm heard the sensor can be added to an OBD I block, but swaping out the oil pumps (where the sensor is actually located). This means pulling the crank pulley and timing belt to get to it though. I can't promise you that will work either (never tried it), just something I've heard. I'm also pretty confident, an OBD II ECU will never turn the CEL light off unless that sensor is installed and working properly.

As for the head gasket, I'm assuming you eyeballed the coolant passages and such and can't see any major differences between the two. I'm also assuming you took a straight edge and made sure the block and head weren't warped. Did you torque the new headgasket, with all new head bolts, in a circular pattern and I believe the spec calls for a 2 step torque (IE 45ft/lbs then again to the 80ft/lbs, those numbers are probably wrong! just off the top of my head).

Solutions? If your not wanting to do all the work to get the knock sensor installed and get the CFK sensor working (I know a few people who have tried using and OBD II oil pump on an OBD I block, but nobodys ever told me it worked perfectly), you might consider using a converstion harness and running an OBD I P28 ECU. It will solve both problems but might not be emissions legal depending on your area. The OBD II diagnostic port won't function without an OBD II ECU so most emissions places will balk right there, but I don't know the specific law in your area, around here, there are no emissions testing at all. As for the head gasket, I'd probably need more info about what happened and what exactly failed (did it break, can you tell where it got past the gasket ...). Good luck with it.

qtiger

I didn't think the y8 had a knock sensor. Maybe he's looking at the vtec oil pressure sensor?

Only thing I can think of that's in a similar location...

Andy

Actually, it's been a pretty consistant rumor over the years that Y8's have knock sensors. I personally don't think so and don't ever remember seeing one when changing my oil, but then again, I never looked that hard. I've run across a few people who will swear they do. I though Honda would only put a knock sensor on a car that required premium fuel (to protect against low octane fuel detonating) but I could be wrong.

Redcivic

Why the hell did you get a Y8 block? You should never get into a project without proper research. There is no way to get the ECU to not notice these sensors are not working. If you continue on this path, you will ruin the cars resale value. Just swollow your pride and get a Y8 block and do the guy a favor. You can put a Y8 head on a D16Z6 but not the other way around without switching to the P28 harness and ECU.

itechengineers

hey, im posting this reply to let you know whats up, im not bashing or being an a$$ you asked and stated so im going to reply=

I didnt get a y8 block, someone i know bought a 2000 honda civic ex coupe in the year of 2000 brand freaking new and it came with a y8 motor from the dealership.

researching a project= i relied on another friend of mine to get a legit motor that would drop in and operate=this fuker was also suppose to let me know about the differences and complications to expect during the sway. but i found these little problems after i got the motor, after my friend paid for it and while i was wrenching away. hey no bad feelings on the dude that got the motor though, I like the challenge, we both learned something and he gave me a hand in research after we discovered the freaking kinks. everything's all good.

ecu noticing sensors and resale value= im a grad on computer engineering= about 90 % of the time theres a way around it and if not in the future there will be a way around it, im currently getting in to digital dashes ran off of PC's and flat screen monitors, im not going to use OS's that take a shit load of time to boot (if i remember correctly, the fastest loading XP system so far was around 30s boot up time) im writing a OS that will fire up fully as soon as the or even before the motor fires up, and the features will be tremendoues, why buy a vafc controller when you can have one already built into your stock setup from the dealership? This dude is looked into payments for a long time, no one would wants to take over payments on a knocking y8block from a 2000 and my friend isnt getting into insurance jobs.. his car is all stock and he doesnt care.... if he wanted a hooked up sports car, this dude would have bought a jag (waste o cash, but if you got it to blow, why not go for it, jags are nice, his civic is his everyday get him everywhere car, no racing no show doesnt want go type o shizzz).

swallow my pride? i say blow! if i did that and went with society, i would have never grad'd from highschool at the age of 16 and would've never went to college and got a great gov job at 18=considering i grew up poor as hell on the streetz o cities. im not lieing and not bragging= i say fuk it, aim for the top even if your thoughts and ideas are shit, if you make it you made if you dont, try something else but never forget your original plan blah blah blah. shit i would probably still be selling drugs right now instead of kicking it in hawaii=relaxing and enjoying life for a couple of years... i bought a house for my mom to retire in and im only 21 haha!! $hit... make the impossible true and shoot for the top.

hey = once more im not talking shit and im not bashing, you made the comments and i replied.. .now im going to post on the project.

itechengineers

the project is almost done... it took a couple of days becase

i live in maui hawaii and its been pouring rain here over the past week and it still is, it should clear up by tommorow tought, so that slowed us down, MAJORLY! its a pain to wrentch in the pouring rain. Also, I havent been online in a couple of days to post info...

im going to post info on this because in a way its hard to find info on swaps, so i hope this helps others in the future.

on the swap =

y8 everything, d16z6 block......

the brand new d16z6 head gasket didnt work, it speuu'd oil and coolant everywhere (from all parts of the head and block at the head gasket area) and raped the oil pan and coolling system with a nasty coolant / oil mixture, i dont know why, yes we did check for warpage and everything was torqued properly. after multiple flushing and system cleaning, we used a y8 head gasket on the d16z6 block
(note= the gaskets on the y8 and z6 look the same, but i found out that the y8 gasket is thicker and "ups" the comperssion a litte more) and it worked cherry=the auto parts store had no problem with taking the z6 gasket back.

oil pan= we had to use the z6 oil pan on the z6 block = we tried to transfer the y8 oilpan onto the z6 block BUT there are 2 oil pan bolts that DO NOT align near the trannie/flywheel=so we stayed with the z6 oil pan.

thermostat housing, waterpump pipe area that attaches to the block= we had to use the y8 setup on the z6 block because the y8 setup we worked on has 2 vacuum hoses that is attached to this assembly(1 attaches to the intake manifold in between piston 2 and 3 along with the egr, and that other vacuum line and the other went into the intake) if i had a pic it would be easier to explain. I did search the net but the y8 setups i found were differnt than this one... the pics i found didnt have this 3rd line that we were working with. the z6 coolant/waterpupm pipe and thermostate assebly DOES NOT have the vaccuum valves.

oil dipstick. this guy was kinda anal and wanted his stock headers covered, so on the d16z6 the dipstick is in the middle of piston 2/3 and the exhaust headers. the y8 dipstick is on the side near the belts; the y8 dipstick is LONGER than the z6, you have to use the z6 dipstick and we had to cut the heat sheild/make a hole for the z6 dipstick to be removed and insearted without unbolting the heatshield= keep in mind after you make your measurements and cuts that z6 dipstick will fully seat bu will be about 4 cm's away from the heat shiled, it doesnt touch at all but it looks trippy.

theres going to be a couple of mounts that attach to the trannie and block that your not going to need anymore becasue they wont fit on the z6 bloc and reach the y8 trannie . you probably could use the z6 mounts but we didnt care, the flywheel shield is up and the other stock y8 mounts are cherry on the z6 block. these mounts are located around the area where you z6 block and y8 trannie meet.

if your curious= the y8 started reaches the z6 block fine, so i would imagine that the z6 starter would be fine as a swap in.

there is a knock sensor on this y8 block, its right above the oil filter and about 1 inch down from the top of the block and where the head gasket is and i think its either in between piston 2/3 or on piston 2 area. if i remember correctly, in this area for this y8 block there is the block coolant drainage bolt, oil filter pressuer sender, knock sensor, oil filter, block breather assembly box

I we didnt get a chance to play with the krank and knock sensor / CEL situation becase we had to do a couple of other things= install an alram and a bunch of shizz....



one recent problem noticed today = we were about the rejuice his ac system and noticed, whenever he hits the ac button and turns on the blower in the dash, coolant starts to leak at a moderate drip pace from around the area of the alternator. we didnt get a chance to address the issue because it was 5 and thats another day. strange, why would it leak coolant from there whenever we turn on the ac system? non of the ac lines run through that area and the only coolant line there is the waterpump assembly/pipe that leads to the thermostate housing. i think it could be leaking from there, any ideas anyone?

i'll post more info as i go with the days of work, dude has his car and is driving it, im going to continue the research on the AC rpob and the CEL light based on those 2 sensors. im thinking we might have to bolt the knock sensor into the block and the krank sensor... aaaaaahhhhh maan... thats another time.

FYI= in maui HI there practically is no emission laws (in oahu, HI there is) its awesome that we can pass emisson with only a muff and all pipes! i know a couple of peops that passed inspection with open down pipes on boost without a muff=but the cops do write off tickets if you get pulled for speeding or loud exhaust though.... :-}

itechengineers

"Why the hell are you wasting your time on this? A Y8 block with 46kmi. is still in its prime!"
its someone elses car = not mine, and this is what he wants and he paid me the cash... so i gave it to him. I explained what he's getting into and he knows. if a customer wanted a computer built to their standards and their willing to pay a higher retail price than all the other PC's within your line that you build, wouldnt you provide it? giving the fact the customer knows what they want and what they're getting into? customer satisifaction. a lot of people out there love excellent customer service.

update on the swap.... turns out on the coolant leakage from the water pump area right after the AC button is pressed is due to an overly tight timing belt. when he pressed the AC button to activate the AC it places more pressure on the timing system... what do you all think about that? true... false? I mean, the belt is already spinning with the timing belt before the ac button is hit; why would hitting the ac button add more pressure?

that crack sensor.... turns out iot doesnt go into the oil pump area and it only goes behind the lower timing belt cover... It has a round piece of metal aqimed at the crank gear (this is the thing that the cracnk pulley attaches to). I havent had a chance to work on this guys car because he's been busy and i Got into other projects. i'll post the updates as they complete.

PHiZ

I can confirm that certain D16Y8 have KS. From what I know it's the OBD2B ones that do. So only half of the total D16Y8s produced.

-PHiZ